An Account of the Bell Rock Light-House Including the Details of the Erection and Peculiar Structure of That Edifice; to Which Is Prefixed a Historical View of the Institution and Progress of the Northern Light-Houses

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[Illustration: BELL ROCK LIGHT HOUSE

_During A Storm From The North East_.

Drawn by J. M. W. Turner R. A.

Engraved by J. Horsburgh.]

An Account Of The Bell Rock Light-House,

Including the Details of the Erection and Peculiar Structure of That Edifice.

To Which Is Prefixed a Historical View of the Institution and Progress of the Northern Light-Houses.

Illustrated with Twenty-Three Engravings.

Drawn Up by Desire of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-Houses,

by

Robert Stevenson,

Civil Engineer;

Fellow of the Royal Society of Edinburgh; Member of the Society of Scotish Antiquaries, of the Wernerian Natural History Society, and of the Geological Society of London;

Engineer to the Northern Light-House Board, and to the Convention of Royal Boroughs of Scotland.

Edinburgh: Printed for Archibald Constable & Co. Edinburgh; Hurst, Robinson & Co. 90. Cheapside; and Josiah Taylor, 50. High Holborn, London.

1824.

To

The King.

_Sire_,

_It is with much diffidence that the author now lays before Your Majesty, an Account of the arduous national undertaking of erecting a Light-house on the Bell Rock,--a sunk reef, lying about eleven miles from the shore, and so situated as to have long proved an object of dread to mariners on the eastern coast of Scotland, especially when making for the Friths of Forth and Tay._

_This edifice being of the utmost consequence to the safety of Your Majesty’s Ships of War upon the North Sea station, and of the commercial shipping of this part of the empire, he presumes to hope for Your Majesty’s favourable acceptance of his work. From the known partiality, also, of Your Majesty for naval excursions, which so recently led the Royal Squadron within a comparatively short distance of the Bell Rock Light-house, in the course of Your Majesty’s most gracious Visit to your ancient Kingdom of Scotland, he flatters himself that Your Majesty may feel an additional interest in the subject of this volume._

_The Introduction to this work brings generally under Your Majesty’s notice, the important labours of the Scottish Light-house Board, appointed by an act of the 26th Parliament of Your Majesty’s illustrious FATHER. Since that period, Light-house stations have been partially extended over the whole northern shores of Your Majesty’s British dominions, from Inchkeith in the Firth of Forth, to the Isle of Man in the Irish Sea, including in this circuit the Hebrides, and Orkney and Shetland Islands. Much, however, still remains to be done; and the Board is gradually proceeding, as the state of its funds will permit, in placing additional Sea-Lights on certain intermediate points of the coast._

_It cannot fail to be gratifying to Your Majesty to learn, as the result of the exertions of this Board, that the mariner may now navigate those regions with a degree of security and confidence quite unknown to Your Majesty’s Royal Ancestor JAMES THE FIFTH, when he sailed around this coast in the 16th century, or even, at a recent period, to Your Majesty’s Royal Brother WILLIAM HENRY Duke of Clarence, when in early life he traversed those seas._

_With unfeigned sentiments of loyalty and attachment, the author subscribes himself,_

_Your MAJESTY’S Most devoted Subject and Servant, ROBERT STEVENSON_.

The Contents.

Introduction.

HISTORICAL NARRATIVE OF THE INSTITUTION OF THE BOARD OF COMMISSIONERS, AND PROGRESS MADE IN THE ERECTION OF THE NORTHERN LIGHT-HOUSES.

Page

Early Voyages of the Scots. Extension of Trade. Charts of the Coast. 1-4

1786. Proposition for the establishment of a Light-house Board in Scotland. Original act passed in 1786. Commissioners appointed. First Meeting of the Board. Mode of raising Funds. 5-6

1787. Kinnaird-Head and Mull of Kintyre Light-houses. 6-8

1788. Light Duty found to be too small. Act of 1788. 9

1789. Island Glass, North Ronaldsay, and Pladda Light-houses. Collectors of the Light-Duties appointed. 10-11

1791. Pladda distinguishing Light. Annual Supply and Inspection of the Light-houses. Light-keepers’ Salary. Economical plan of early Light-houses. 12-14

1793. Application for Additional Lights. State of the Light-house Funds. 14-15

1794. Pentland Skerry Light-house. Writer’s first Voyage to the North. Loss of the Sloop Elizabeth. Mr Balfour and Mr Riddoch of Orkney presented with Pieces of Plate. 15-17

Act Incorporating the Commissioners into a Board or Body Politic. Additional works at the Light-houses already built. Proposition for altering Kinnaird-Head Light-house. 18-19

1801. Numerous Shipwrecks on the Island of Sanday. Proofs of a severe winter in Orkney. Quarries at Sanday and Eda. Encroachments of the Sea. Remarks on Ruble Building, and Houses with double walls. Foundation-Stone of Start Point Light-house laid. Reverend Walter Traill’s Address upon this occasion. 19-23

1803. Inchkeith Light-house. Originally proposed as a Leading Light. Duty for Inchkeith modified. Light-keepers Accommodations extended. Construction of Light-rooms and Reflectors improved. Inscription upon Inchkeith Light-house. Pilot’s guard-room. Shipwrecked Seamen sheltered. 24-29

1806. Start-Point Light exhibited, and North Ronaldsay Light-house converted into a Beacon. List of 22 Shipwrecks on the Island of Sanday, in the course of Twelve Years. Foreman and Artificers lost in the Traveller. Captain Manby’s Apparatus, 30-34

Island of May Light-house. Patent ratified 1641; the Duty for that Light complained of after the Union. Family of Scotstarvet become Proprietors. Chamber of Commerce get that Light improved. Portland Family become Proprietors. Loss of the Nymphen and Pallas Frigates. Lord Melville, First Lord of the Admiralty, applies to the Light-house Board, by whom the Duties and Island of May are purchased. Additional apartments provided at the Isle of May. Notice of the alteration of this Light and that of Inchkeith. Pilot’s guard-room. 36-41

1815. Corsewall Light-house. Foundation-stone laid. Light exhibited. 42-44

1818. Isle of Man Light-houses. Writer’s Report in the year 1802, relative to the erection of Light-houses on the Isle of Man. Trade of Liverpool applies to the Commissioners to erect them. Act of 1815, obtained by Sir W. Rae, with regard to these Lights. Difficulty of fixing their Sites. Lights exhibited 1st February 1818. Sum expended by the Light-house Board, on the East Coast, in the course of 10 years. 44-48

1821. Sumburgh-head Light exhibited. This House built with double walls, 52

Carr Rock Beacon. List of 16 vessels wrecked there in the course of nine years. Floating-Buoy moored off this dangerous Reef. Beacon of Masonry designed, with Tide-machine and Bell-apparatus. Dimensions of Carr Rock. Difficulties of this work. It is frequently damaged in Storms. The upper part ultimately completed with cast-iron, without the Alarm-Bell. 56-62

Duties exigible. Expence of Management. Accounts of the Light-house Board made public. Application of the Funds, and disposal of the Surplus. Practical Management. 63-64

Account Of The Bell Rock Light-House.

Chap. I.

NAME, SITUATION, DIMENSIONS, AND NATURAL HISTORY, OF THE BELL ROCK.--DEPTH OF WATER, AND CURRENT OF THE TIDES IN ITS VICINITY.

Page

Origin of the Names Inch-Cape and Bell Rock. Tradition of a Bell erected by one of the Abbots of Aberbrothock. 67-68

Situation, Dimensions, and Mineralogy of the Rock. Wasting effects of the Sea. Proofs of its having occupied a higher Level. 69-71

Plants, Animals, Insect destructive to Timber. Experiment with pieces of Timber fixed to the Rock. Mussels attempted to be planted upon it. Habits of Fishes. 72-74

Depth of Water upon the Rock, and at the distance of 100 yards from it. Tides at the Rock. Not accounted for by Writers on the subject. Progress of the great Waves of the Tide. Periods of High-water at different places in the Firth of Forth. Currents at the Mouth of the River Dee. Water salt at bottom and fresh at top. Phenomenon of _in_ and _off_ shore Tides. Tides of Mediterranean and Baltic Seas. 75-81

Chap. II.

POSITION OF THE BELL ROCK.--DESIGNS FOR THE LIGHT-HOUSE.--BILL BY LORD ADVOCATE HOPE IN 1803.--BILL BY LORD ADVOCATE ERSKINE IN 1806.--REPORT OF THE COMMITTEE OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS.--PASSING OF THE BILL.

Dangerous Position of the Rock. Sir Alexander Cochrane’s Letter to the Light-house Board. Great Storm in 1799. Expence of the Light-house, as estimated by the Public. Designs by Captain Brodie and Mr Cooper. Captain Brodie’s remuneration. The Writer’s first visit to the Rock in the year 1800. Pillar-formed Building compared with one of Stone. Mr Telford requested to give a Design. Mr Downie’s Pillar-formed Design. 81-93

Bell Rock Light-house proposed at the Convention of Royal Burghs. Lord Advocate Hope’s Bill is lost in the House of Lords in 1803. 94-95

The Light-house Board consults Mr Rennie, who visits the Rock with Mr Hamilton, and the Writer. The Commissioners take the sense of certain Ports relative to the measure. Reports of the Traders in Leith and Berwick. Resolution of the Board to apply again to Parliament. 94-98

Lord Advocate Erskine’s Bill 1806. Mr Hamilton and the Writer go to London on this business. Loan from Government doubtful. Board of Trade favourable to the Loan. Memorial to the Board of Trade. Sir Joseph Banks’s exertions. Bill read first and second times. Report brought up by Sir John Sinclair. Report of the Committee. Bill meets with some opposition at the third reading, but is passed. 100-105

Chap. III.--1807.

FLOATING-LIGHT SHIP.--COMMENCEMENT OF THE OPERATIONS ON THE ROCK.--ERECTION OF THE BEACON-HOUSE, AND PROGRESS OF THE WORKS.

The Act provides for the mooring of a Floating-Light. Fishing Dogger purchased, fitted out and moored, under the direction of a Committee of the Trinity-House of Leith, and named the Pharos. Peculiar construction of her Lanterns and Moorings. She sails for her station. A Committee from Arbroath joins the party at the Isle of May. Is anchored in a temporary birth. Her moorings unexpectedly slip over-board, and are recovered with much difficulty. Description of the Pharos. 107-114

Commencement of the Operations at the Rock. Sloop Smeaton. Positions of the Beacon and Light-house fixed upon. First trip of the Artificers to the Rock on the 7th August. Rate of Wages. Letter from Aberdeen Masons. Lines from Dibdin. 115-120

Erection of the Beacon-House. Work commenced 18th August. Method of fixing iron-bats into the Rock. Landing-master’s duty. Indications of the state of the Weather. Dangerous situation of the Rock in Foggy weather. Artificers amuse themselves with fishing while the Rock is under water. The fixing of the Smith’s Forge completed. Valuable services of the Smiths on the Bell Rock. Much wanted at the Edystone. The Seals desert the Rock. 120-126

Hampered state of the Artificers on ship-board. Inconveniencies of the Pharos as a Tender. Difficulty of getting on board. Artificers become expert rowers. Their rations of Provisions. “Saturday-Night at Sea.” 127-130

Reasons for continuing the works upon the Rock during part of Sundays. Preparations for having Prayers on deck. Prayer composed by the Reverend Dr A. Brunton. Some of the Artificers decline working on Sunday. Additional Pay for Sunday’s work. 131-135

Artificers work knee-deep in water during neap-tides. Operations at the Rock entirely confined to the Beacon. Description of the operation of boring holes in the Rock. Difficult situation of the Smiths. 135-137

Wind-Gauge much wanted, to afford a better nomenclature to Seamen. Difficult passage with the boats from the Rock to the Tender. Life-Buoy streamed on this occasion. A Tender is ordered exclusively for the service of the Rock. Some of the Artificers apply for leave ashore. Landing made upon the Rock after a gale. 138-141

Method of fixing the great iron-stanchions into the Rock. Longest day’s work hitherto had upon it. Smeaton brings off a cargo of stones for making the experiment of landing them. Various methods suggested for this critical operation. Stones first landed on the Rock. Mode originally adopted for attaching the Stone-lighters to their moorings. Smeaton breaks adrift. Perilous situation of those on the Rock. Pilot-boat fortunately comes to their relief. The Boats have a rough passage to the Floating-light. The Smeaton bears away for Arbroath. Indispensable utility of the Beacon-house. Eighteen of the Artificers decline embarking for the Rock. The boats, nevertheless, proceed with the remaining eight. Captain Pool’s account of the drifting of the Smeaton, 142-152

The comparative level of the site of the Building ascertained. Full complement of Buoys moored. Floating-light rides out a strong gale. State of the vessel. The Writer consults with the Officers of the ship relative to the probable effect of her breaking adrift. The gale takes off. Appearance of the Sea on the Rock. The Floating-light breaks adrift. Her cables supposed to have been cut by a piece of wreck. Difficulty of managing this vessel. She is anchored and moored in a new station. Her Light is first exhibited on the 15th of September 1807. 153-164

Light-house Yacht for a time becomes the Tender at the Rock. Artificers agree to continue on board of her beyond the term of their engagement. An accident happens to one of the Boats. 164-165

The Smeaton arrives at the Rock, 18th September, with the Beams of the Beacon-house. Preparations made, and four of the principal ones erected. Method of raising them, and fixing the great Iron-Stanchions. Seven hours’ work upon the Rock in one ebb-tide. The remaining two principal, and four of the supporting beams, erected. 166-171

The Boats have some difficulty in leaving the Rock. Shipping dispersed in a gale. Land again after an absence of four days. Smith’s Forge removed from the Rock to the Beacon. Writer lands at Arbroath, after having been four weeks afloat. 172-174

The vessels are again separated in a gale. A landing effected at the Rock. State of the Beacon. Working hours extended. Beacon-works finished for the season. Mr John Rennie, and his son Mr George, visit the Rock. Number of days during which the Artificers were at work. 175-180

Progress of Operations in the Work-yard. Writer visits the Rock 22d November. State of the Beacon. Professor Playfair’s observations about the unlocking of Screws. State of the Floating-light. 181-188

Chap. IV.--1808.

Shipping.--Implements.--Building Materials; And Progress Of The Works.

Praam-boats built with a water-tight ceiling or lining. Method of mooring the Praam-boats. Attending boats, one of which is fitted up as a Life-boat. 187-188

Railways, Waggons, Sheer-crane, Moveable-beam-crane, Sling-cart, Carpenters’ Jack, Lewis-bat, Moulds, Coffer-dam, Pumps, Winch-machine. 189-196

Mineralogy of eastern coast. Report of Messrs Rennie and Stevenson, about Stone. The use of Granite resolved upon. Mortar of the Ancients. Attention of the Moderns to this subject. Mortar of the Edystone and Bell Rock, Lime, Pozzolano, Sand, Water, Cement. Oaken trenails, and Wedges. 196-204

The Writer visits the Rock 30th March. Floating-light’s crew. Light comparatively feeble. Landing at the Rock difficult. State of the Beacon. Propriety of converting it into a Barrack. Bread and Water chest. Advantages of the Beacon to Shipping. 205-208

Impress-service affects the Operations. Protection-Medal and Descriptive Ticket. Light-house Yacht on the station as a Tender. Preparatory works. Use of Granite restricted to lower courses of the building. Use of Sandstone extended. Mr Skene’s contract for supplying Granite. 209-212

The Sir Joseph Banks Schooner takes her station as Tender at the Rock. The Writer begins the operations of the season 25th May. State of the Foundation-pit. Difficult landing. It is found necessary to excavate the Rock further, to a greater depth. Artificers much afflicted with sea-sickness. Misunderstanding about their Pay. Sailors men of all-works, 212-218

Mortar Gallery fitted up. Smeaton ballasted from the Bell Rock. Fish caught in great abundance. 218-219

First entire course completed in the hewing, and laid on the platform in the Work-yard at Arbroath, on the 4th June. Its cubical contents. Certainty of commencing the building operations this season. Arrangements with the artificers. How employed. Interesting appearance of the Rock. They remain there all day. Tender bears away for Leith Roads. The work is continued on the Rock till midnight. Its appearance. Artificers backward in landing, owing to the appearance of the weather. 220-226

First entire course of the building removed from the platform, to be shipped for the Rock, 14th June. Trial of the Landing apparatus. Fifty Artificers land. Small ruble-walls built instead of coffer-dam. Advantages of a Bell as a signal in foggy weather. Force of the Sea upon the Rock. Artificers sail for Arbroath. Pay and premiums of the Artificers this month. They embark again for the Rock on the return of Spring-tides. How employed. 227-235

Foundation-stone prepared, landed at high-water. Laid 10th July, with masonic ceremony. 235-237

Price of Granite advanced. A raft of Timber goes adrift. State of things at night on extinguishing the torches at the Rock. First or foundation course, consisting of 18 stones, finished 26th July. Force of habit exemplified in landing on the Rock. Cargo of the first entire course landed 28th July. The Smeaton makes a second trip in twenty hours. 4 stones are laid. Advantage of cranes compared with sheer-poles. Mr Smeaton’s plan in the use of trenails and wedges followed. 239-244

A party of gentlemen have a narrow escape at the Rock. First entire course completed 12th August. One of the artificers disabled in the work-yard at Arbroath. He receives an annuity. Granite stones much wanted for the work. Second entire course completed. Pumping of water discontinued at the Rock 10th September. One of the artificers, by an accidental bruise, loses a finger. Progress of the works stopped for want of Granite. The Building brought to a level with the higher parts of the Rock. 244-249

Great difficulty of landing. Two stones are loosened by the force of the Sea. Praam-boats ride out a gale with great ease. 31 stones laid in 6½ hours. One of the boats cannot be got out of the eastern-creek. 15 stones laid. Weather very boisterous. Engineer’s Clerk most active. 250-253

Unfortunate loss of James Scott, a sailor. His mother gets a small annuity. 17 stones laid. Building closed for the season 21st September. Summary of Operations. Shipping dispersed in a gale. State of things at the Rock after the gale. The Writer sails on his annual trip to the Northern Light-houses. Visits the Bell Rock on his return. Arrangements for the Winter months. 253-256

Chap. V.--1809.

Progress Of The Works.

Railways injured. Bracing-chains unlocked. Proofs of strong currents in the Sea. Travellers or Drift-stones found upon the Rock. Progress of works in the Yard at Arbroath. Exertions in the Quarries. Captain Calder’s letter to Mr Stevenson. Drift-stones removed. Joisting of platform lifted. A vessel in danger of being wrecked at the Rock. Cast-iron anchors. 257-262

Purchase of sloop Patriot. Floating-Light encounters heavy Seas. 12th course completed by the stone-cutters. Employment of Shipping. Patriot condemned. Opinion of Mr Solicitor-General Boyle. Two Praam-boats launched. Floating-light under the charge of Mr John Reid. Two sets of moorings laid down. Tender slips her moorings. Other three sets of moorings are laid down. 263-266

Artificers cannot land. The sailors account for the unsettled state of the weather. The Writer visits the Rock 1st May. Some timber is landed. Tender in danger of drifting upon the Rock. Joiners and millwrights get high premiums. Works make rapid progress. One of the floating-buoys gets water-logged. Great exertions made to complete the circular reach of the railway laid round the Building. Attempt made to erect a crane. 266-271

The Smeaton sails for the Rock with the first cargo of stones this season. Floating-Light’s moorings examined. State of her moorings. Plants and Animals observed on the building. Builders commence operations 27th May. Lay 5 stones. Tender rides out a hard gale. Apparatus on the Rock, and state of the Sea, viewed from a boat at a distance. Landing very difficult. State of the Weather. 272-277

Zeal of the Writer’s Assistants. Eleven Artificers left upon the Beacon. They encounter a severe gale. The Tender at this time is very uncomfortable. Artificers relieved. Mr P. Logan’s account of the Beacon during the gale. James Glen’s exertions. State of matters at the Rock after the gale. Tender obliged to leave her station. Progress of the works at Arbroath. Patriot slips her moorings. Artificers divided into squads. Shipping belonging to the Light-house service. Building goes on, laying at the rate of from 12 to 20 blocks per day. Great exertions made to supply materials. 276-284

Artificers are unavoidably left all night upon the Beacon. Smeaton and Patriot slip their moorings. Remarkable breach of the Sea upon the Rock. 3 stones are in danger of being washed away. Great waste of mortar. 57 stones are laid in one day. Cooking commenced on the Beacon 24th June. Situation of mortar-makers and smiths upon the Beacon. Rope-ladder extended between the Beacon and Building. Work stopped by a simple mistake. 66 stones landed, and 38 laid on the 27th of June. The work can now be continued after the Rock is overflowed by the tide. 284-290

One of the artificers meets with a severe accident, of which, however, he recovers. Have 10 hours’ work to-day, and lay 59 stones. Writer visits the Carr Rock, with a view to the erection of a Beacon. Joiners, at their own desire, are now left on the Beacon. Considered a favourable omen for the inhabitation of the Light-house. 290-294

Tide for the first time does not overflow the building, 8th July. Number of joiners reduced. Balance-crane begun to be made. Tenth course completed. Building at the rate of 29 to 52 stones per day. The stone-lighters not loaded at Arbroath on Sundays, 294-298

William Walker, accidentally killed at Arbroath. His widow receives an annuity. One of the artificers remains alone on the Beacon. Artificers take possession of it, along with Peter Fortune. His character. The Praam-boats cannot approach the Rock. 298-300

An embargo is laid on shipping throughout the Kingdom. Mr Sheriff DUFF’S exertions to get the Light-house shipping relieved. Operations at the Rock while the vessels are detained in port. The embargo is taken off the Light-house shipping. The propriety of stopping the Bell Rock vessels doubted. 78 stones landed, and 40 built, on the 1st August. Twenty-four artificers inhabit the Beacon-house. Mr Sheriff DUFF visits the Rock. Building proceeds at the rate of from 22 to 23 stones per day. The Fly of Bridport narrowly escapes shipwreck on the Bell Rock. Mr Sheriff HAMILTON visits the Rock. Additional supports for the Beacon-house landed. Sheer-crane broken. Some of the artificers get alarmed, and leave the Beacon. Effects of the late gale. 300-306

The Writer takes possession of his cabin on the Beacon 15th August. 52 stones landed, and eight built. One of the boats of the Floating-light loses her way in thick weather. An entire course of the building is laid in one day. Prayers read for the first time in the Beacon-house. The Smeaton arrives with the last cargo of stones for the solid part of the Building. Building operations for the season concluded, 25th August. Notice of the very proper conduct of the artificers. Floating-light breaks adrift. Probable height of the waves of the sea in free space. Inducements for stopping the building at this early period of the season. The Tender continues on the station, and the artificers occupy the Beacon-house for a time. Experience bad weather. 306-311

The Writer makes a trip to see the distinguishing-light at Flamborough-head in Yorkshire. Is overtaken with a gale, which he describes. Great want of a Public Harbour on the eastern coast of England. Progress of this gale traced from Shetland to Yarmouth Roads. Mr B. MILLS of Bridlington, probably the first who suggested Distinguishing-lights with red colour. 311-313

The Writer sails for the Northern Lights. State of the works when closed for the season. Stool or prop for a crane upon the Rock demolished in a gale of wind. Artificers visit the Rock. Large Buoy has drifted and Floating-light has had bad weather. 313-315

Chap. VI.--1810.

Progress And Completion Of The Works.

The Tender visits the Rock and Floating-light, 5th January. The Artificers cannot land again until the 11th March. Beacon rendered very secure. Landing extremely precarious in winter. 317-319

Retrospective view of the works. Mylnefield and Craigleith quarries. Practical inferences about concluding the works. Timber Gangway or Bridge. Operations commence for the season. Bridge erected at the Rock. One of the artificers gets himself hurt. 320-324

Writer proceeds to the Rock to begin the building operations, 1st May. Praam-boats ride easily. State of the Building, Beacon and Timber-bridge. Balance-crane landed upon the Rock. Position of the entrance-door. Artificers take possession of the Beacon for the working season. 324-329

The Smeaton arrives with the first cargo of stones for the season. No communication with the Rock, 12th May. Balance-crane ready for use. Theory of Sea and Land breezes. Smeaton slips her moorings, and is driven up to Leith. 329-331

Patriot sent to Mylnefield quarry for the last cargo of stones to be carried to Arbroath for the Light-house, 17th May. State of the lower part of the Beacon, from the effects of a marine insect. 23 blocks of stone landed, and raised with the new tackle. One of the stones in danger from the breaking of a bolt. The Smeaton makes rapid trips from Arbroath to the Rock with materials. Prayers read for the first time on the Building. Exertions of Landing-master’s crew. 35th course completed. Arrangements for the conduct of the works, and safety of the Beacon. Balance-crane shaft unfortunately breaks. 332-336

The Writer is welcomed in at the door of the Light-house, 26th May. Fixtures of the Hinges of the Door and Windows. Great expedition of the Shipping with the Materials. Patriot makes one trip in 33 hours. 36th course laid. King’s Birth-day observed, 4th June. 336-339

Stair-case of the Light-house completed, 5th June. Progress of works at Edinburgh. Artificers liable to accident. Boat and Life Buoy provided for the Beacon. Trenailing of the stones of the building discontinued. Number of persons inhabiting the Beacon. Fitting of the window-hinges tedious. Comforts of good weather. Balance-crane shifted. 340-342

Moveable beam-crane erected on Western Wharf. 2 stones upset by the force of the sea. A praam-boat is sent from the Rock without delivering her cargo. Floor of the Lightroom-store laid, 13th June. Mr John Reid gets leave on shore, after having been about three months afloat. 341-344

First letter written from the Bell Rock Light-house. Its floors, and those of the Edystone described. 31 persons lodged in the Beacon. Pay and premiums of the artificers at the Rock. Seamen find one of the lost sets of moorings. Experiment of collecting Gas from Fishes. Cause of ground swells. 344-347

Landing-master’s dress, and activity of his crew. Want of the Western Wharf seriously felt. Operation of shifting the Balance-crane. Western Wharf finished, 17th June. Remarkable state of the sea at the Rock. Landing-master’s crew have now more leisure. Disagreeable state of the weather. Responsible situation of the principal workmen. 347-352

Carpenter of Floating-light leaves the service. Patriot makes a trip to and from Arbroath in 24 hours. Attempts made to land stones at high water with the bridge apparatus. Process of landing stones. Seamen become discontented. The Writer’s correspondence on this occasion. He goes on board of the Tender. Dismisses two of the seamen. 352-357

Progress of the works at Arbroath. 62d course built at the Rock. The artificers are wetted by the sea on the top of the walls. Mr John Reid’s report regarding the Floating-light. Narrow escape of William Kennedy, one of the masons. 357-361

Writer describes his cabin. The distressing case of George Dall, an impressed seaman. Magistrates of Arbroath visit the Rock. Number of artificers reduced to 22. Narrow escape of the Smeaton at the Bell Rock. Advantage of alarm-bells. Artificers in the Beacon-house greatly alarmed. 362-365

Progress of the Light-room works. Mrs Dixon, the late Mr Smeaton’s daughter, visits the Bell Rock works at Edinburgh. Mr D. Logan joins the works at the Rock. The Patriot is 7 days in being cleared of a cargo. Progress of raising the stones to the top of the Light-house, 365-369

Last cargo of stones at Arbroath shipped for the Rock, 9th July. Library floor laid. Ring-bar-course laid. The Dome-course occupies much time in building. 369-372

Landing-master’s crew reduced in number. Patriot driven from the Rock. Ceremony observed at loading the last stone at Leith. Many strangers visit the works in their present state. Difficulty of raising and laying the stones of the cornice. 84th course completed. Eight stones of Balcony course laid. This course completed 27th July. Ceremony at landing the last stone. 372-377

Machinery partly dismantled, 31st July. Foot of Balance-crane taken down. The Earl of Kellie, and Mr Sheriff Monypenny, land at the Rock. Centre-stone of floor laid 3d August. Artificers leave the Rock. The Writer meets with his Assistants at Arbroath. 377-379

Plans arranged for building the Houses at Arbroath for the families of the Light-keepers. The duty on stone charged upon these buildings. Three years of the unexpired lease of the work-yard given up. Base-line measured on the Sands of Barry. Trigonometrical Survey of Great Britain alluded to. 379-383

Artificers return to the Rock. Smeaton obliged to leave her station. Mortar gallery completely broken up by the sea. The Tender returns to the Rock. The Smith’s anvil and bellows washed off the Beacon. 383-386

Light-room sash-frames landed 23d August. Captain Wilson is accidentally hurt by one of them. Last stone of the Light-house laid, 2d September. 386-388

The Sir Joseph Banks Tender sails for Leith to be sold. Praam-boat drifts from the Rock. Artificers for the erection of the Light-room landed upon the Rock on the 14th of October. The Writer sails for the Northern Light-houses, accompanied by his friends Dr Barclay, Mr Oliphant, and Mr Neill. Progress of the Light-room works on his return. Unfortunate loss of Charles Henderson. Difficulty of procuring red-coloured glass. Ventilating or Finishing ball fixed upon the Cupola of the Light-room, 22d October. Light-room glazed. Light-house Yacht loses one of her boats off the Bell Rock. Great dexterity of the Landing-master and his crew. 388-394

State of the Railways, Beacon, and Light-house. Condition of the several apartments. House put under the charge of Mr Reid, principal Light-keeper, 30th September. Small boat washed off the Beacon. Sprays rise 104 feet upon the Light-house. Seas fly from stem to stern of the Floating-light. Mr Reid left with Peter Fortune in charge of the Light-house. They experience a severe gale. Their description of the effects of the Sea. 394-399

The Red-coloured Glass arrives at Edinburgh, 6th December. Reflecting apparatus shipped for the Rock, and landed on the 15th. The Light is advertised to the Public on the 17th. List of Newspapers in which the advertisement is inserted. The Light-keepers are left in possession of the House, together with Mr Forrest, general superintendant. 399-402

Chap. VII.--1811.

ACCOUNT OF THE BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE, FROM ITS COMPLETION TILL THE YEAR 1823, INCLUDING STATEMENTS OF THE EXPENCE, QUANTITY OF MATERIALS AND WORKMANSHIP CONNECTED WITH THE WORK.

1811. The Light is exhibited on the 1st of February, when the Floating-Light is extinguished. A Storm occurs on the night that the House is lighted. Floating-Light puts into Anstruther, on her return voyage to Leith. State of her bottom. 404-405

The Light-keepers get their turns of liberty on shore. Letter from Mr Forrest to the writer. Effects of the Sea on the building. State of the Railways and Wharfs. Remarkable force of the Sea in lifting a large piece of lead. Direction of the Seas which have the greatest effect upon the Light-house. Comfortable state of the building. Qualifications of the Light-keepers. Mr Forrest leaves them in full possession of the house. 406-410

Progress of Ulterior works. Lord Boyle and a party land at the Rock. Boats suitable for landing there. Bruce’s “two-half Boat.” Light-house stove takes fire. Sprays rise to the height of the Light-room. Advantage of double windows. 411-413

1812. Light-house excites much interest. Sir William Rae and Mr Duff, visit the Rock. The Beacon is taken down, and removed from the Rock. Mode of securing timber against the Oniscus insect. Light-house encounters another gale. Remarkable shock of the Sea. Professor Robison’s opinion on this subject. State of the Sea from which the Frontispiece is delineated. It overruns the Rock at low-water. Mode in which the Light is attended. 414-416

1813. Establishment of the Light-keepers at Arbroath completed. Signals observed at the Rock. Thunder-rod. Method of fixing it. 417-418

1814. A party of the Commissioners, with Sir Walter Scott, visit the Light-house. 419

1815. Permanent Railways begun to be fitted up. Lord President Hope visits the Rock. 419

1816. Pharos Tender built. Exterior of Light-house painted. 419

1818. Fuci disappear from the Rock. 420

1819. Permanent Railways completed. Improved Access to the Light-house by a brazen ladder. Sprays rise 105 feet. A piece of the highest part of the rock carried away by the violence of the Sea. 421

1820. Improvements on the Light-house. Inner door of brass, &c. 421

1821. A new Machine for taking up the Stores. Mr John Reid retires from the Light-house service on half-pay. 421

1822. Light-house Works and Model completed. Design for Wolf Rock. 422

1823. Severe Storm. Carrier-pigeons sent from the Rock. Expence of the Work. Cubic contents of the Materials. 423

Appendix.

Page No I. Additional Light-houses proposed on the Coast. Light-Keepers’ Instructions. Rations of Provisions at the Bell Rock. Monthly, and Ship-wreck Returns. 425-437

II. Poem on Sir Ralph the Rover, extracted from Mr Southey’s Works. 438

III. Abstract Account of Light-house Duties. 439

IV. Reports relative to the Bell Rock Light-house, by Mr Rennie, and the Writer. 440-468

V. Remarks relative to the Ground-Swells of the Sea. 469-470

VI. Schedules of Materials and Workmanship. 471-474

VII. Abstract Account of Expence. Average Price Provisions. 475-483

Description Of Plates.

Plate I. Inchkeith Light-house. 487

II. Carr Rock Beacon. 487-489

III. Chart of Great Britain, with Sections of the Depths of the Sea. 490

IV. Chart, shewing the position of the Bell Rock, in relation to the opposite Shores. 490

V. Chart, shewing the Position of the Rock, in relation to the Shipping. 491

VI. Plan of the Rock, shewing the Position of the Light-house. 492-499

VII. Original Designs for the Light-house. 499-501

VIII. Beacon House. 501-503

XI. Progress of the Works. 503-505

X. Implement and Apparatus connected with the Work. 505-508

XI. Sheer-crane, Praam-boat discharging, &c. 508-510

XII. Work-yard, Light-Keepers’ Houses at Arbroath. 511

XIII. Plan of the several Courses of the Masonry of the Light-house. 511-515

XIV. Moveable Beam Crane. 515-517

XV. Foundation-Pit of the Light-house. 518

XVI. Elevation and Section of the Light-house. 518-519

XVII. Balance-Crane. 520-522

XVIII. General View of the Works. (See page 424.) 520-523

XIX. Door and Window Hinges, and Thunder-rod. 523-525

XX. Balcony and Light-Room. 526-529

XXI. Frontispiece explained. (See Title-page.) 529

XXII. Vignette on Second Title-page. (See page 62.) 530

XXIII. Design for a Light-house, suggested on visiting the Wolf Rock, 530-533

Introduction.

ACCOUNT OF THE INSTITUTION OF THE BOARD OF COMMISSIONERS AND OF THE PROGRESS MADE IN THE ERECTION OF THE NORTHERN LIGHT-HOUSES.

[Sidenote: Institution of Board of Northern Light-houses.]

Among the Nations of Europe, the SCOTS have always been allowed to possess a considerable share of maritime enterprise. The local situation and circumstances of Scotland necessarily directed the genius of its people to the pursuit of nautical affairs. Their voyages to the Hanseatic Towns, and to all the commercial countries of Europe, were naturally longer than those of their more southern neighbours of England, who were separated from the Continent only by a narrow channel, which must have rendered their communication in the rude periods of maritime discovery comparatively easy. The voyages of the Scots even to the most contiguous parts of France and the Low Countries were upwards of 140 leagues, along a coast intersected by innumerable shoals; and, in the time of war, lay so open to the attacks of English ships, that, in prosecuting them, the navigators were obliged to abandon the usual track, and hold a course far from the shelter of the land, exposed to all the dangers of the seas and the vicissitudes of the weather.

In those early periods of our national history, when Britain was divided into two separate and independent states, jealous of each other, it became necessary for Scotland to form alliances with foreign powers, when distant voyages, and much intercourse by sea was indispensable. The frequent struggles with the marauding powers of the North, obliged her to keep a more considerable navy than would otherwise have been required for the protection of her commerce. The connection likewise, with Denmark and Norway, through the marriage of James III. with Margaret daughter of Christian I., in 1469, was attended with the final annexation of the Orkney and Shetland Islands to the Crown of Scotland;--circumstances which naturally extended her foreign traffic, and completely united the dominion and the navigation of the whole line of her coast.

It was reserved, however, for the influence and happy effects of the Union of the Crowns and Kingdoms of England, Scotland and Ireland, to draw forth the full energies of these countries. During the long and glorious reign of his late Majesty, the name and character of the United Kingdom have been highly advanced in arms, while her works of industry, have not only flourished at home, but been extended to the remotest parts of the world.

[Sidenote: Improvement of the Highlands.]

About the middle of the last or eighteenth century, the true value of the Highlands of Scotland, and the best interests of these extensive districts, may be said for the first time to have been understood. Since that period, the object of the Government has been more especially directed to the industry of the inhabitants, in giving every encouragement and facility to the establishment of fisheries, towns and harbours, along the shores of the north and west of Scotland; and in opening interior communications, by the introduction of a system of roads, the formation of an extensive inland navigation, and the execution of other national works.

[Sidenote: Extension of Trade.]

Soon after the internal disturbances which marked the year 1745, the trade on the coast of Scotland with sloops or vessels of small tonnage, became considerable, in consequence of the bounties and encouragement given to the extension of the British fisheries. About this time also, the important manufacture of kelp or marine alkali, from certain species of _fuci_ abundant on the northern and western shores of Scotland, was introduced. Besides carrying the kelp to market, a considerable number of small vessels was employed in conveying salt and other articles required for the fisheries,--in the Irish coasting trade,--in carrying slates from Argyleshire,--and in transporting the rich iron-ore of Cumberland to the foundries on the eastern shores of the kingdom. A trade was likewise carried on from the Firth of Clyde, Liverpool, and the west of England in general, and north of Ireland, with Norway, the Baltic, and the other States in the north of Europe, in timber, iron, tar and other commodities; and in exchange for these were received coal, salt, and the various exports of Britain. These all became sources of commerce, which created a demand for shipping, and promoted numerous voyages along the northern and western coasts of Scotland, which now became more known and frequented. But such was the length and peril of a voyage round the coast of Scotland, by the Orkneys and Western Islands, without the aid of light-houses, or even of correct charts, that the traffic along these shores was still comparatively small.

[Sidenote: Inland Navigation.]

It was to remove these difficulties in some measure, that the formation of a navigable canal between the Friths of Forth and Clyde, had long been in agitation; and in the year 1767, the measure was brought forward in the House of Commons. This canal, upon a voyage from the Forth to the Clyde, is calculated to save no less than about 628 miles; the distance, by the inland navigation being reduced to about 35 miles. This work having been carried into execution, was opened from sea to sea in 1790, forming an important step in the progressive intercourse by water-carriage, a system which has since been so remarkably extended to all parts of the united kingdom. But the usefulness of the Forth and Clyde Canal was greatly marred by an unfortunate error in its construction, its depth having been limited to 9 feet, and its consequent incapacity for carrying _sea-borne_ ships of large burden; so that the inconveniences of a circuitous voyage round Scotland still remains for all the larger classes of shipping. In the formation of the Caledonian Canal, the error of the Forth and Clyde navigation has been avoided; this noble work being capable of receiving ships which draw 21 feet of water.

[Sidenote: Voyage of James V. in 1540.]

Notwithstanding these great improvements, it was still found necessary, from the increasing state of trade, to give further facilities to the navigation of the northern shores, by the Orkney and Western Islands. The first step taken towards this object, was to procure accurate surveys of the coast; for it is a curious fact, deserving of notice, that the little journal and chart of the enterprising voyage of James V., with many of the Scottish Nobles, from the Firth of Forth to the Solway Firth , by the Orkneys, was long consulted as the only guide for these seas. This voyage, so honourable to the naval annals of Scotland, was undertaken by James with twelve ships in the year 1540, under the direction of Alexander Lindsay, the most skilful pilot of his time.

[Sidenote: Original Charts.]

At the request of the Philosophical Society (now the Royal Society) of Edinburgh, the Rev. Alex. Bryce of Kirknewton, about the year 1740, made a geometrical survey of the North-west coast of Scotland, including the shores of Caithness and Sutherland. This paved the way for the more extensive labours of Mr Murdoch Mackenzie, who, after finishing his excellent charts of the Orkney Islands in the year 1750, was employed by Government in a survey of the whole of the Western Highlands and Islands, from Cape Wrath in Sutherlandshire to the Mull of Kintyre. But long after the publication of these valuable charts, the navigation of the sounds and sheltered seas of this district was seldom ventured upon by the larger class of shipping employed in foreign trade. The danger of falling in prematurely with the land during the night, and the rapidity of the tides on these shores, induced the mariner to keep along the extreme points and headlands of the coast, holding his course even to the northward of Orkney and Shetland, and to the westward of the Lewis Isles by St Kilda, exposed to the heavy seas of the Atlantic Ocean. In this way, much hazard to shipping, and loss of time, were incurred; and when overtaken with gales of wind, such vessels were unable to avail themselves of the numerous bays and anchorages of the Highlands;--considerations of much importance to heavy laden ships, but especially to the smaller classes of coasting and fishing vessels. It therefore appeared, that nothing but the erection of Lighthouses, by which the mariner might identify the land under night, would render this navigation at all a safe one.

[Sidenote: Proposition of a Light-house Board.]

Representations had often been made by shipmasters to their owners, of the difficulties and dangers encountered in sailing along the coast of Scotland. The establishment of a Light-house Board, and the erection of Light-houses on our Northern Shores, became the topic of conversation among mercantile men; and the subject was at length brought forward at the meeting of the Convention of the Royal Boroughs of Scotland, in the year 1784, by the late Mr DEMPSTER of Dunnichen, then Provost of Forfar, and Member of Parliament, as worthy of the notice of the Legislature.

[Sidenote: Passing of the Original Act, 1786.]

A bill was accordingly framed by the late Mr JOHN GRAY, writer to the Signet, agent for the Royal Boroughs, which was brought into Parliament by Mr Dempster, in the session of 1786. By this act, the 26th Geo. III. chap. 101., a Board was appointed, for the erection of Light-houses on the coast of Scotland; the preamble stating that “it would conduce greatly to the security of navigation and the fisheries, if four lighthouses were erected in the northern parts of Great Britain,” viz. one on Kinnaird Head, in Aberdeenshire; one on the Orkney Islands; one on the Harris Isles, and one at the Mull of Kintyre, in Argyleshire; for which a duty of one penny _per_ register ton, for British, and twopence _per_ ton upon foreign ships, should be paid by every ship or decked vessel which should pass one or all of these lights.

[Sidenote: Commissioners _ex Officio_.]

The Commissioners appointed for putting this act in execution, are, “His Majesty’s Advocate and Solicitor-General for Scotland; the Lord Provost and First Bailie of Edinburgh; the Lord Provost and First Bailie of Glasgow; the Provosts of Aberdeen, Inverness and Campbeltown; the Sheriffs of the Counties of Edinburgh, Lanark, Renfrew, Bute, Argyle, Inverness, Ross, Orkney, Caithness, and Aberdeen;” and to these have since been added, the Sheriffs of the Counties of Ayr, Fife, Forfar, and Wigton, agreeably to a clause which authorises the Commissioners to add to their number.

[Sidenote: First Meeting of the Board.]

The first meeting of the Commissioners was held at Edinburgh on the 1st day of August 1786; and consisted of the following members:

His Majesty’s Solicitor-General, Robert Dundas of Arniston. The Lord Provost of Edinburgh, Sir James Hunter-Blair, Bart. The First Bailie of Edinburgh, James Dickson, Esq. The Sheriff of the County of Bute, Bannatyne Macleod, Esq. The Sheriff of the County of Aberdeen, Alexander Elphinston, Esq. The Sheriff of the County of Lanark, Sir William Honyman, Bart.

[Sidenote: Mode of raising Funds.]

The meeting having elected Sir James Hunter-Blair to be their Preses, and appointed Mr Gray to be their Secretary, deliberated upon the measures to be taken for giving effect to the statute. The first object of the Board was to borrow the sum of L. 1200, which they were authorised to raise. As all the Commissioners were acting _ex officio_, it was suggested, that the most convenient method of arranging the security for the funds to be borrowed, would be for the Magistrates of the five boroughs mentioned in the act to become security, upon assignment of the duties leviable for the lights,--a mode which was accordingly adopted.

[Sidenote: Progress of Northern Light-houses.]

[Sidenote: Information about Light-houses.]

The preses informed the meeting, that he had corresponded with persons the most likely to afford information relative to the best construction of Light-houses, and had received answers from Liverpool to a variety of queries regarding Light-houses, where the use of coal-fires had been laid aside, and where oil lights, with reflectors, had been introduced: That he had also got various plans and estimates for Light-houses lighted with oil: That the Chamber of Commerce of Edinburgh had furnished a plan of the Light-house on the Island of May, in the Firth of Forth, and also a description of the light on the Island of Cumbraes, in the Firth of Clyde, both of which were then open coal-fires: In particular, that he had received from the late Mr THOMAS SMITH of Edinburgh, plans and observations on the construction of Light-houses with Lamps and Reflectors; which having been ultimately approved of, Mr Smith was nominated Engineer to the Board. After appointing a Committee for preparing matters for a general meeting, they adjourned till the 23d of January 1787.

[Sidenote: Transactions of 1787.]

In pursuance of the act of Parliament, the Commissioners gave directions that a correspondence should be opened with the several proprietors of the land where the four original Light-houses were specified to be erected. An answer was immediately received from Mr Traill of Westness in Orkney, requesting the Board’s free acceptance of the ground necessary for erecting the Light-house proposed for the Northern Isles of Orkney, on any part of his property. Application was made to the Duke of Argyle, as to the ground for the erection of a Light-house on the Mull of Kintyre; to Lord Saltoun, relative to the station of Kinnaird-Head, in Aberdeenshire; and to Mr Macleod of Harris, as to the site of a Light-house on Island Glass. Measures were also taken for obtaining fit persons to contract for erecting the necessary buildings, and for conducting the operations at the different stations.

_Kinnaird Head._

[Sidenote: Kinnaird-Head Light-house.]

The result of the correspondence with Lord Saltoun, was the purchase of the old building of Kinnaird Castle from his Lordship, on which a lantern or light-room was erected. After encountering considerable difficulties in the outset of this establishment, the house was got ready for the exhibition of the light by the month of December 1787, and the following notice to mariners was officially given by the Secretary in the London Gazette, and in the Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Aberdeen newspapers.

“By order of the Commissioners appointed by Act of Parliament for erecting four Light-houses in the northern parts of Great Britain, a Light-house is now erected on Kinnaird Castle, at Kinnaird-Head, near Fraserburgh, in the county of Aberdeen, Lat. 57° 42´, and Long. 2° 19´ West of London, Cairnbulg from the Light-house bearing, by compass, S.E., distant 2 miles; and Trauphead W.NW., distant 9 miles. The lantern is 120 feet above the level of the sea at high-water, and will be seen from SE. to W.NW. and intermediate points of the compass on the north of these points. The lantern will be lighted on the night of the first day of December 1787, and every night thereafter, from the going away of day-light in the evening till the return of day-light in the morning.”

_Mull of Kintyre._

[Sidenote: Mull of Kintyre Light-house.]

At the Mull of Kintyre, one of the most inaccessible and difficult of the Northern Light-house stations, the buildings were nearly prepared for the light-room by the month of November; but the season being too far advanced, and it appearing from Mr Smith’s report, that there would be some risk in conveying the apparatus to the light-house at this inclement season, the Commissioners resolved to delay the further progress of the work at Kintyre till the following spring.

[Sidenote: ~1788.~]

The operations at the Mull of Kintyre were recommenced in the month of April, but, owing chiefly to the inaccessible great difficulty that was experienced in transporting the building materials connected with the lantern or light-room, over the mountainous district of Kintyre, it was the month of October before the light could be announced for exhibition, when public advertisement was made of the lighting of the house to the following effect.

“The Mull of Kintyre Light-house is situated immediately above the rocks known to mariners by the name of The Merchants, in North Lat. 55° 17´, and Long. 5° 42´ west of London; the eastern entrance of the Sound of Isla, bearing from the Light-house by compass, N. by E., distant 33 miles; the Mull of Kinho in the Island of Isla N. NW., distant 25 miles; and the northern extremity of Rathlin Island, on the coast of Ireland, NW. ½ W. distant 13 miles; the Maiden Rocks S. by W. ½ W., distant 21 miles; and Copland Light-house S. by W. ½ W., distant 40 miles. The light-room is elevated 240 feet above the medium level of the sea, and will be seen from N. NE. to S. by W., and all intermediate points of the compass north of these points. The light will be exhibited on the 1st day of December 1788, and every night thereafter, from the going away of day-light in the evening till the return of day-light in the morning.”

[Sidenote: Light-house duty too small.]

In the progress of the works of the Northern Light-houses, it soon became evident, from the diminished state of the funds, that the light-house duty of 1d. _per_ ton upon British vessels, and 2d. upon foreign bottoms, was too small. By the original act, also, this duty was only to be levied after the whole of the lights at the four stations had been exhibited to mariners; but the Board having found that it would be expedient to commence the collection of the duties so soon as two were lighted, resolved on applying to Parliament for a new act.

[Sidenote: Act of 1788.]

A bill was accordingly brought into the House of Commons by Sir Ilay Campbell, M. P., when Lord Advocate for Scotland, and _ex officio_ one of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, which passed in the session of 1788, empowering the Commissioners to levy a duty of 1½d., or one halfpenny more _per_ ton upon British ships, and 3d., or one penny _per_ ton additional upon foreigners; and, in the mean time, to commence collecting half duties till the whole of the four light-houses mentioned in the former act were lighted, when the full duties were to become exigible. Already about L. 4000 had been expended on the light-houses of Kinnaird-Head and Kintyre. By this new act, however, the Commissioners being empowered to borrow a further sum of L. 3000, were not only enabled to forward the operations already commenced, but, with this additional duty, it was expected that they would soon be in a condition to answer the calls of the shipping interest for additional erections on the coast.

_Island Glass._

[Sidenote: ~1789.~]

Considerable progress had been made in the course of the former season with the erection of the Light-house at Island Glass in Harris, which was finished and lighted on the 10th day of October 1789, the following being its specification:--The Point of Island Glass, one of the Harris Isles, is situated in North Lat. 57° 50´, and Long. 6° 33´ west of London. Ru-Ushiness bears from the light-house, per compass, E. NE. ½ E., distant 8 miles; northern extremity of Shiant Isles E., ½ S., southern extremity of ditto E. by S. ½ S., distant 11 miles; Skerne Rock SE., ½ E., distant 3 miles; Skergraidish Rock S. SE. ¼ E., distant 9 miles; Point of Trotternish in Sky S. SE. ¼ E., distant 16 miles; Point of Vaternish S. SW. ¼ W., distant 15 miles; Dunvegan-Head SW. ½ S., distant 20 miles; Point of Roudil, at the entrance of the Sound of Harris, W. by S., distant 14 miles. The light-room is elevated 70 feet above the medium level of the sea, and will be seen from E. NE. ½ E., from W. by S., and intermediate points of the compass south of these points.

[Sidenote: North Ronaldsay Light-house.]

While the works of Island Glass were proceeding, a light-house was also erected, and lighted 10th October 1789, on the island of North Ronaldsay, in Orkney; but, as the light at this station was afterwards removed to the neighbouring island of Sanday, it will fall more properly to be noticed in the form of a Tower or Beacon, into which the building was converted, after a Light-house had been established at the Start Point of Sanday.

_Pladda._

[Sidenote: Application for Pladda Light-house.]

The erection of the four light-houses of Kinnaird Head, North Ronaldsay, Island Glass, and the Mull of Kintyre, completed the operations of the Northern Light-house Board, referred to in the original act of 1786; and at the time of passing that act, it was not foreseen that a greater number would be required on the coast of Scotland for a series of years. But the benefit of the lights which had already been erected, in affording much greater safety and facility to the mariner in those dangerous seas, became so apparent, that they were no sooner exhibited than applications from different quarters for new erections followed. Among these, a memorial was presented to the Commissioners by the Merchants’ House of Greenock, accompanied by a letter from the Chamber of Commerce of Glasgow, setting forth the advantages which the shipping of the Clyde would derive from the erection of a light-house upon the small island of Pladda, situated at the southern extremity of the island of Arran, and entrance of the Firth of Clyde. This memorial concluded by requesting, that the Commissioners would “take such measures as should to them seem most proper, for procuring an act of Parliament, in order to carry the erection of a light-house on the island of Pladda into execution as soon as possible.”

[Sidenote: Act of 1789.]

[Sidenote: Collectors appointed.]

An act was accordingly obtained, in the session of 1789, not only for the erection of Pladda Light-house, but for extending the powers of the Commissioners to the erection of such other light-houses on the coast of Scotland as to them should seem necessary, whenever the free produce of the duties of 1½d. and 3d. _per_ ton respectively on British and foreign ships should enable the Board to do so. In consequence of the act of 1788, authorising the collection of half duties so soon as two of the four light-houses mentioned in the original act should be lighted, collectors at the different customhouses of all the ports of Great Britain were appointed to receive the Northern Light-house duty, and for their trouble they were to be paid at the rate of 10 _per cent._ upon the sums they should respectively receive: But the business being scarcely organized in 1789, and only half duties being exigible, the whole money collected in that year amounted but to L. 290:14:6, and even this small sum formed part of two years’ collection. From the smallness of the duties, and the extent of the operations which the Commissioners had now on hand, they were much pressed for the necessary funds, and but for the liberality of their bankers Sir William Forbes and Company, the operations of the Board must have been greatly hampered. Indeed, Sir James Hunter Blair, one of the partners of that house, when Lord Provost of Edinburgh, and _ex officio_ a member of the Board, had been highly instrumental in forwarding the establishment of the Northern Light-houses; and it was, perhaps, from such adventitious circumstances, together with the economy of the measures originally pursued, that the progress of the Light-house works proceeded, without experiencing any interruption from want of funds.

[Sidenote: ~1790.~]

The light-house of Pladda was finished in the course of the year 1790, and lighted on the 1st day of October. As before noticed, it is situated in the Firth of Clyde, on the small island of Pladda, near the south-west point of the island of Arran, in North Lat. 55° 30´ and Long. 5° 4´ west of London; the entrance of Campbeltown Loch bearing, by compass, W.NW. ¼ N., distant 18 miles; Island of Sana W., distant 20 miles; Craig of Ailsa SW. by S., distant 15 miles; entrance to Loch Ryan S.SW., distant 25 miles; and the Heads of Ayr E.SE., distant 16 miles. The light-room is elevated above the medium level of the sea 70 feet; and the light is seen from NE. by E. to NW. by W. and intermediate points of the compass south of these points.

[Sidenote: ~1791.~]

[Sidenote: Distinguishing light at Pladda.]

In order to distinguish Pladda Light-house from the light upon the Promontory of Kintyre on the one hand, and that upon the island of Cumbrae, further up the Firth of Clyde, and also from the Copeland light on the Irish coast, it was found necessary, in the course of the year 1791, to erect a small Light-room, immediately under the principal light, that, by shewing two distinct lights at this station, the one 20 feet higher than the other, it might be distinguishable from those above alluded to. This small light-room being rather of a temporary construction, the Board have it in view to erect one upon a more efficient plan, when certain repairs which are in contemplation at Pladda shall be made.

[Sidenote: Annual supply and inspection of the Lights.]

The Northern Light-houses being situated in parts of the country remote and inaccessible, it became necessary to arrange some systematic and proper plan for managing the ordinary business of the Board, which, at this time, had only one stated meeting, held by act of Parliament in the month of July annually. A special meeting was accordingly convened by the Secretary, in the month of March 1791; at which there were present, the Lord Advocate of Scotland; the Lord Provost of Edinburgh; the Sheriff of Aberdeen; the Sheriff of Renfrew; and the Sheriff of Orkney, Mr Charles Hope, now Lord President of the Court of Session. This meeting having taken into consideration the proper mode of supplying the light-houses, and of attending to the conduct of the light-keepers, it was resolved, That the engineer should charter a vessel annually, to carry a full complement of stores and other necessaries for the use of the lights, and such artificers, implements and materials as might, from time to time, be found necessary for making repairs at the light-houses; and also, that the engineer should annually visit each light-house, and report upon the state and condition of the buildings, and upon the conduct of the respective light-keepers in keeping the lights, and in the management of the stores and appurtenances committed to their charge; with power to dismiss them for neglect of duty.

[Sidenote: Light-keepers’ Salary.]

The light-keepers already engaged in the service, had been verbally informed by the engineer, that they would be paid L. 30 of yearly salary; and this meeting having before it a range of salaries paid to light-keepers both in England and Scotland, varying from L. 20 to upwards of L. 70, it was resolved, That in ordinary situations, the salary of the light-keepers in the service of the Northern Light-houses should be L. 30 _per annum_, with a piece of garden-ground and pasture for a cow, and a sufficient quantity of fuel for the use of their families.

[Sidenote: First voyage of the Engineer.]

[Sidenote: Light-house keeper dismissed the service.]

In consequence of this arrangement, a vessel of about 100 tons burden was chartered and fitted out with stores and other necessaries for the use of the Northern Light-houses; and in the course of the summer of 1791, Mr Smith made his first annual visit by sea to the light-houses--the journeys of the engineer having hitherto been performed chiefly by land. On this voyage, every thing was reported to be in good order at the several stations, excepting at the Light-house of North Ronaldsay, which he found to be very improperly kept: it appeared also that the light-keeper at this station had been embezzling the stores committed to his charge. This person was formerly a ship-master, who, finding it difficult to get employment in the line of his profession, had been very improperly recommended to the attention of the Light-house Board. Under circumstances of such misconduct, the engineer immediately dismissed him from the service, and his conduct was further taken cognizance of by the Sheriff of the county.

[Sidenote: Economical plan of the early Light-houses.]

The business of the Light-houses was now so arranged, that matters went on in a very prosperous and successful manner. So well, indeed, had the plans and buildings of their engineer been considered, and made to meet the slender funds of the Board, that, with an expenditure of little more than L. 10,000, five lights had been exhibited upon the coast. Though these buildings were unavoidably very much circumscribed in their accommodations, and even temporary in their construction, yet the speedy exhibition of the lights was of great benefit to navigation, while the improving state of the light-house duties enabled the Commissioners to extend their influence along a greater range of coast; and the different buildings have since been enlarged and completed in a much more substantial manner, by applying the surplus funds to these purposes.

[Sidenote: ~1793.~]

[Sidenote: Application for additional light-houses.]

In the year 1793, the prosperous state of funds induced and enabled the Commissioners to attend to the applications of mariners for additional light-houses on the coast. In particular a letter, to be afterwards more fully noticed, was addressed to the Light-house Board by Admiral Sir Alexander Cochrane, then commanding his Majesty’s ship Hind upon the Leith station, setting forth the great benefit that would accrue to shipping, from the erection of a light-house upon the Bell Rock. Representations were likewise made at this time by the merchants of Liverpool, regarding the propriety of erecting a light-house upon the Skerries, situated in the middle of the Pentland Firth , which separates the Orkney Islands from the Mainland of Caithness. The object of a light here, was to open this Firth as a passage to shipping in general, and to enable the mariner to avoid a circuitous and dangerous voyage to the northward of the Orkney Islands.

[Sidenote: State of the Light-house funds.]

At this period, however, the Commissioners could not venture to undertake a work of such magnitude and difficulty, as the erection of a light-house upon the Bell Rock. The amount of the light-house duties at first was extremely limited; and though in a progressive state, yet, for 1789, as before stated, they only amounted to L. 249:14:6. For 1790, the sum was L. 1477:5:1; for 1791, it was L. 2736:9:2; for 1792, it rose to L. 3160:18:1. But in the year 1793, of which we are now treating, the duties rather declined, and they only netted L. 2868, 3s. 5d. The Commissioners were nevertheless enabled to pay off L. 4200, which, by the acts of 1786 and 1788, they had been empowered to borrow, and likewise to discharge the advances made by Sir William Forbes and Company; still leaving a balance of about L. 2000 of surplus duties in the hands of their treasurer. The funds being, therefore, still very limited, and only in a condition to enable the Board to erect a light-house of the ordinary construction, the erection of the light-house on the Pentland Skerries was resolved on; and the further consideration of the Bell Rock light-house reserved, until the funds should be in a more advanced state.

_Pentland Skerries._

[Sidenote: Regarding the site of the Pentland Firth Light-house.]

Some difference of opinion arising among the gentlemen and merchants of Orkney, whether the light-house proposed for the Pentland Skerries should not rather be erected upon the island of Copinsha, situate about fifteen miles northward of the Portland Firth , the matter was referred to the opinion of the Association of Ship-owners of Liverpool, and to the Chambers of Commerce of Glasgow and Greenock, when these public bodies unanimously and strongly recommended the erection of the light-house on the Pentland Skerries, as the site best calculated for a direction to the Pentland Firth ; which was accordingly fixed upon by the Board. To mark this Light-house from the other lights upon the coast, it was necessary to make it a Distinguishing-light, which was effected by the erection of a higher and lower light-house tower, respectively 80 and 100 feet above the medium level of the sea, built at the distance of 60 feet asunder, and each having a light-room with reflectors, so as to show two distinct stationary lights, for as yet the Revolving-light had not been introduced upon this coast.

[Sidenote: ~1794.~]

[Sidenote: The author’s first voyage to the north.]

The works at the Pentland Skerries were begun early in the spring of 1794. The masonry was executed by builders of Orkney; and the materials having been prepared, were partly landed on these small islands in the course of the preceding summer. The Skerries consist of two uninhabited islands, with some contiguous sunken rocks. They lie exposed to the uninterrupted force of the waves of the North Sea, and to the rapid tides and currents of the Pentland Firth , and present many convincing proofs of the wasting state of the land, by the action of the sea. The works here had been so laid out, that the towers should be in readiness for the erection of the light-rooms by the month of August; and it was expected that the lights would be ready for exhibition in the month of October. The author, to whose superintendance the completing of these light-houses was to be entrusted, as his first work for the Board, sailed from Leith on this service on the 2d July 1794; and after touching at Kinnaird Head Light-house, he landed at the Pentland Skerries on the 11th of that month, and found the masonry of the two light-house towers in such a state of forwardness, as to be then nearly ready for the light-rooms. In the month of September, these works were completed, and the lights were exhibited on the 1st day of October 1794.

These lights are from oil, with reflectors, and may be described as erected on the largest of the Pentland Skerries, in Lat. 58° 43´ and Long. 3° 3´ west of London; the northmost or highest light-room being elevated 100 feet, and the lower light-room 80 feet above the medium level of the sea. The two light-rooms, relatively to each other, bear S. SW. and N. NE., distant 60 feet. The bearings, as taken from the highest light-room, by compass, are the western extremity of the Little Pentland Skerry S. by W., distant 1¼ mile; extremity of the foul ground off that Skerry SE., distant 1½ mile; Duncan’s Bay Head in Caithness; W. SW. distant 4½ miles; Noss Head SW. by W., distant 14 miles; northmost point of the Island of Stroma NW. by W., distant 6½ miles; south-western extremity of the Loather Rock on the Orkney shore N. by W., distant 3½ miles; Island of Copinsha NE. by E. ¼ E., distant 17 miles.

[Sidenote: Loss of the sloop Elizabeth.]

The author, having remained to complete the works at the Pentland Skerries, and to see the house lighted, sailed from Orkney on the 9th of October, in the sloop Elizabeth of Stromness. On the following day, the vessel got within three miles of Kinnaird Head Light-house, in Aberdeenshire; but the wind having suddenly shifted to the south-east, Mr Sinclair, the master, with much attention and kindness, landed the author, who continued his journey to Edinburgh by land. A very different fate, however, awaited his shipmates; for the Elizabeth having put back to Cromarty Roads, was afterwards driven to Orkney, and ultimately lost, when all on board perished.

[Sidenote: Mr Balfour and Mr Riddoch presented with pieces of Plate.]

In the affairs connected with the erection of light-houses in Orkney, Mr Balfour of Elwick, and Mr Riddoch, collector of the customs at Kirkwall, having respectively taken much friendly interest and trouble in the advancement of the Light-house works in the Orkney islands, the Commissioners of the Light-houses presented a small piece of plate to each of these gentlemen, with a suitable inscription, in testimony of the services they had thus rendered to the public.

[Sidenote: Act for Incorporating the Commissioners.]

Some inconveniency having been experienced in conducting the business of the Light-house Board, in consequence of its not being an incorporated body, and not having a common seal, particularly in the holding of stock and other property, in laying out and investing the surplus funds arising from the light-house duties, application was made to Parliament, and an act passed in 1798, 38th Geo. III. c. 57. erecting the Commissioners into a Board or Body-politic, by the name of “The Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses;” and under that title to have perpetual succession, and hold a common seal.

[Sidenote: Additional Works at the first erected Light-houses.]

After the completion of these two light-houses on the Pentland Skerries in 1794, a period of ten years elapsed before the erection of any additional light-house was undertaken on the coast of Scotland. This delay was rendered necessary, chiefly on account of the necessity of extending the accommodation of the light-keepers at the different stations,--in making landing places and roads,--enclosing grounds,--and, in short, putting the whole establishment of the light-houses into a more complete and finished state.

[Sidenote: Light-House proposed as a direction for Cromarty Firth .]

In the mean time, several propositions for new light-houses were brought under the notice of the Commissioners. In the year 1797, for example, the late Mr Dempster of Dunnichen proposed the erection of a light-house as a direction for the entrance of Cromarty Firth , one of the principal inlets for shipping on the eastern coast of Great Britain. Mr Dempster also suggested, in connection with this, that a Beacon should be erected, and a floating buoy moored, to point out the dangerous channel of Dornoch Firth , which is too often fatally mistaken for the entrance to Cromarty Firth . The proposition of a beacon and buoy for Dornoch, was considered by the Commissioners as not strictly in the high seas, and therefore not properly belonging to the concerns of the Board, and, together with the light-house, were delayed for the present, that attention might be paid to more urgent demands on other parts of the coast.

[Sidenote: Proposition for altering the site of Kinnaird Head Light-House.]

Notwithstanding the benefit derived from the erection of Kinnaird Head light-house, shipwrecks were still occurring on a dangerous reef of rocks called Rattray Brigs, situate about 12 miles southward of Kinnaird Head, and 6 miles north of Peterhead. In the year 1798, petitions were presented to the Commissioners from certain merchants and traders, setting forth, that the light-house upon Kinnaird Head would be much more beneficial to shipping, were it removed to Rattray Head. This matter was remitted to the author to report upon, who accordingly made a survey of this part of the coast. After maturely considering the subject, it was deemed advisable to decline the removal of the light-house from Kinnaird Head, which was found to be extremely useful for directing ships into the Moray and Cromarty Friths, and also to vessels making the land from the northward. Although it might not, perhaps, be so useful to coasters bound from the south, yet the Commissioners found, that it would be better, under all circumstances, to preserve Kinnaird Head as a light-house station, and, at some future period, to erect an additional light upon this important part of the coast, at or near Peterhead, in a position calculated to be useful as a guide for the sunken reef of Rattray Brigs, and also for the south-eastern shores of Aberdeenshire.

_Start Point Beacon._

[Sidenote: ~1801.~]

[Sidenote: Numerous Wrecks on the Island of Sanday.]

Among the several applications brought before the Board for additional light-houses, something still appeared to be necessary for averting the misfortunes which were annually happening on the low shores of the Northern Isles of Orkney. It had now been found, by the experience of about twelve years, that the light-house of North Ronaldsay was not calculated to prevent the numerous wrecks on the islands of Sanday and Stronsay. In the year 1796, when the author was on his annual visit to the Northern Light-houses, he was struck at seeing the wreck of three homeward-bound ships upon the island of Sanday, though situate only about eight miles southward of the light-house of North Ronaldsay. Again, in 1797, he found one wrecked ship on Sanday; but in 1798 he saw the remains of no fewer than five vessels upon that fatal island; and, in the month of December 1799, two of the numerous vessels which were driven from Yarmouth Roads in a dreadful gale of wind at south-east, were also wrecked there. The author having laid this continued and alarming state of things before the Light-house Board, in his annual report of 1801, it was resolved, that a beacon or tower of masonry should be erected upon the Start Point or eastern extremity of the low shores of the island of Sanday; the building to be constructed in such a manner that it might, if found necessary, be converted into a light-house.

[Sidenote: ~1802.~]

[Sidenote: Proofs of a severe winter in Orkney.]

In the year 1802, the author sailed on his annual voyage to the Northern Light-houses so early as the 14th of April, in the Pharos of Leith, carrying with him a foreman and sixteen artificers, to commence the works of the Start Point Tower. After rather a boisterous passage, the vessel reached Orkney in six days, and, at this advanced period of the season, these Islands were found covered to the depth of six inches with snow. This, at any time, is rather uncommon in Orkney; but such had been the severity of the season in the northern regions, that a flock of wild swans which, in severe winters, visit this country, were still seen in considerable numbers upon the fresh-water lakes of Sanday. These large birds are supposed to migrate from Iceland, but are rarely seen here later than the month of March, so that their appearance in the latter end of the month of April, was considered by the Orcadians as a mark of a very severe and long-continued winter in the higher latitudes.

[Sidenote: Quarries at Sanday and Eda.]

[Sidenote: Encroachments of the Sea upon the Land.]

[Sidenote: Of Ruble Building.]

[Sidenote: Houses built with Double walls.]

It having been ascertained that there was no workable sandstone on the island of Sanday, where the Beacon was to be erected, permission was granted by Mr Laing, the proprietor of the contiguous island of Eda, to open a quarry at Calf Sound, where sandstone of a pretty good quality was obtained. With a view to render this building substantially water-tight, it had been originally intended to make it wholly of hewn stone, built in regular courses, technically called _ashlar_ or _aisler-work_, a term derived from the aisle of a church, where this sort of masonry predominates; but the quarry of Eda being about fourteen miles distant from the work, the stones had to be brought by sea through rapid tides; and there being but indifferent creeks or havens both at the quarry and at the Start Point, it was found necessary to make only the principal stones of hewn-work, while the body of the work was executed in ruble-building, for which excellent materials were got at the Start Point, the property of the Right Honourable Lord Dundas, consisting of _sandstone-slate_, of a greyish-smoke colour, intermixed with shining particles of mica. The rock here is disposed in strata, from 1 to 8 inches in thickness, and could easily be raised in pieces containing from 15 to 20 square feet. Indeed, the encroachments of the sea had heaped up immense quantities of these schistose stones at high-water mark, all round the Start Point, the shores of which appeared like the ruins of the wall of some large city. These stones, however, were more applicable for the purposes of dike-building, or interior walls, than for external work; for, after having been exposed on the beach for ages to the alternate changes of moisture and dryness, heat and cold, they were found to have many small fissures, or were split horizontally; and although the pieces still seemed to adhere closely, yet they were sufficiently open to admit moisture into the heart of the walls, which, in these stormy and exposed situations, is forced through the building: hence it is, that houses built with _drift_-stones of this description, are said by the cottagers of these islands to keep out moisture much better when built with _puddle_ or clay, than with the best lime-mortar, which, under certain circumstances, is known to attract moisture, while the clay resists it. But after all the care that can be taken in building with these slaty stones, even when taken fresh from the quarry, they still have a tendency to split into lamellæ, after they are built in the walls. Experienced builders, therefore, generally lay the outward stones of such walls with a slight inclination downwards, or _dip_, as the workmen term it, the more readily to prevent the admission of wetness. I have been thus particular, because it is hardly possible to prevent walls built of these materials from drawing moisture, until they have been _rough cast_,--an operation which is so very troublesome, from requiring to be occasionally renewed, that I have found it necessary, in these exposed situations, to build the outward walls double, as the only effectual method of obtaining a comfortable house free of dampness.

[Sidenote: Laying the foundation stone of Beacon.]

The weather continued to be so extremely boisterous here, that it was the middle of the month of May before a sufficient stock of materials was laid down for commencing the building at the Start Point. A wish having been expressed by the workmen, to have the foundation-stone of the Beacon laid with masonic ceremony; and considering the dreary prospect which the artificers had before them, the author was the more willing to embrace so fair an opportunity of affording them the enjoyment of a little convivial happiness. The influx of so many strangers to the island of Sanday for this work, and the novelty of the intended ceremony, made the news soon find its way to every house. Preparations were accordingly made;--the year of our Lord 1802, was cut upon the foundation-stone, in which a hole was perforated for depositing a glass phial, containing a small parchment scroll, setting forth the intention of the building; the official constitution of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; and the name of their Engineer. It also contained several of the current coins of George III. in gold, silver, and copper. The day fixed for the ceremony was the 15th of May. The weather was dry and tolerably agreeable, though cold, with snow upon the ground; the thermometer by Fahrenheit’s scale indicating 35° in the shade at noon. A number of the principal inhabitants, and a crowd of cottagers assembled. Things being arranged for the ceremony, the author, assisted by Mr James Cleghorn, foreman for the works, applied the square and plummet-level to the foundation-stone, in compliance with the ancient custom of the craft. The phial was then deposited in the cavity prepared for it in the stone, and carefully covered up with sand, when the masonic ceremony concluded in the usual manner. The Reverend Walter Traill, minister of the parish, who obligingly attended on this occasion, now stood forward, and, after a most impressive prayer, imploring the blessing of heaven upon the intended purposes of the building, delivered an address, which, from the singularity of the subject, and the excellency of the matter, shall here be inserted.

[Sidenote: Rev. Walter Trail’s Address.]

“This moment is auspicious. The foundation-stone is laid of a building of incalculable value;--a work of use, not of luxury. Pyramids were erected by the pride of kings, to perpetuate the memory of men, whose ambition enslaved and desolated the world. But it is the benevolent intention of our Government, on this spot to erect a tower, not to exhaust, but to increase the wealth, and protect the commerce of this happy kingdom.--To the goodness of GOD, in the first place, we are indebted for a degree of prosperity unknown to other nations. In the next place, we owe our happiness to our insular situation, and attention to maritime affairs. Faction and civil war have, at this period, laid waste the fairest countries of Europe; while peace has flourished within our walls. Agriculture, commerce, and their kindred arts, have prospered in our land. British oak hath triumphed; victory hath been attached to the British flag; and British fleets have ridden triumphant on the wings of the wind.--Consider the great national objects for which this building will be erected. To protect commerce, and to guard the lives of those intrepid men who for us cheerfully brave the fury of the waves, and the rage of battle. The mariner, when he returns to the embraces of his wife and children, after ascribing praise to the Great Giver of safety, shall bless the friendly light which guided him over the deep, and recommend to the protection of heaven, those who urged, who planned, and who executed the work.--This day shall be remembered with gratitude. It shall be recorded, that at the beginning of a new century, the pious care of Government was extended to this remote island. Those rocks, so fatal to the most brave and honourable part of the community, shall lose their terror, and safety and life shall spring from danger and death.--Even you, my friends, who are employed in the execution of this work, are objects of regard and gratitude. You have, for a season, left the society of your families and friends, to perform a work of high interest to your country and to mankind. I am confident, that you will act, in all respects, so as to deserve and obtain the esteem of the people who now surround you. I hope that they will discharge to you every duty of Christian hospitality, and that you will have no occasion to feel that you are strangers in a strange land.--It becomes us to remember, that all the affairs of men are dependent on Providence. We may exert talents and industry, but GOD only can bless our exertions with success. Let our trust be in him. Let us humbly hope that he will bless this day and this undertaking. Through his aid, may there arise from this spot, a tower of safety and protection to the mariner of every tongue and nation.”

The whole of this scene was very impressive; and the plain, decent, and respectable appearance of the people collected on the occasion, was none of the least interesting parts of it.

[Sidenote: Beacon Completed.]

Having now got the works at the Start Point of Sanday fairly commenced, and some progress made in opening the quarries, the author left the Orkney Islands, and continued his voyage westward to the other Light-houses on the coast. Every thing having succeeded well at the Start Point, the Beacon was finished in the month of September. It was terminated at the height of 100 feet above the medium level of the sea, with a circular ball of masonry measuring fifteen feet in circumference.--But this tower having been afterwards converted into a light-house, it seems to be unnecessary here to enter into a more particular specification of the building.

_Inchkeith Light-house._

[Sidenote: ~1803.~]

Much inconveniency had been experienced, and many fatal accidents had occurred, in the Firth of Forth, from the want of a light to direct ships past the island of Inchkeith into the Roads of Leith. In the course of the winter of 1801, from this cause, a very severe misfortune happened at the rocks lying off Kinghornness, on the Fifeshire coast, by the loss of the smack Aberdeen, Freeman, master, one of the traders bound from Aberdeen to London. This vessel had been put up the Firth in a storm, loaded with a general cargo, which was valued at upwards of L. 10,000, and had on board 13 passengers, besides the ship’s crew, all of whom perished, excepting the master, the mate, and a lady. So very distressing an accident, with other instances of a similar nature, produced a strong sensation with the public. It was also found, that vessels which, by the direction of the light of May, had entered the Firth of Forth in the course of a long winter night, could not yet venture to hold on their course, up the Firth , owing to the difficulty of passing the island of Inchkeith, and the foul and rocky ground in its neighbourhood. The mariner was thus obliged to _lie off and on_ in this narrow sea, without being able to run for the anchorage of Leith Roads till day-light: but, before morning, the wind perhaps had shifted; and, instead of being in a safe anchorage, he was too often driven to sea. The author has, indeed, known of a ship in this situation, which drifted before the wind even to the coast of Norway.

[Sidenote: Inchkeith Light-house resolved on.]

It was from considerations of this kind that an application was brought forward by the Corporation of the Trinity House of Leith, for the erection of a light-house upon Inchkeith; and the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, also viewing Leith Roads as a naval station and rendezvous for his Majesty’s ships on the North Sea station, resolved upon the propriety and expediency of this measure in the year 1802. Various difficulties occurred about procuring the ground necessary for this establishment, not indeed with the noble proprietor of the island, the Duke of Buccleuch, who forthwith ordered every facility to be given to the work; but time was lost in arranging matters with his Grace’s agent. It was not, therefore, till the summer of the year 1803, that the building on Inchkeith commenced, and the masonry of the light-house was not ready for the light-room till the following year, when the light was exhibited on the 1st day of September 1804. Its position is described as follows:

[Sidenote: Description of Inchkeith Light-house.]

“The Light-house erected on the island of Inchkeith, situate in the Firth of Forth and county of Mid-Lothian, in North Lat. 56° 2´, and Long. 3° 8´. west of London, is elevated 220 feet above the medium level of the sea, of which height the building forms 45 feet. The light is from oil with reflectors, and will be seen from every point of the compass as a _Stationary light_” (since altered to a _Revolving light_, as shall be afterwards noticed). “From the light-house Ely-ness bears, by compass, E. NE., distant 16 miles; Light of May E. ½ N., distant 23 miles; Fidra Island E. by S., distant 14 miles; Craig Waugh Rock SE. by S. ½ S., distant 4¾ miles; Leith-Harbour Light SW. ¼ S., distant 3½ miles; Gunnet Rock W., distant 1½ mile; Ox-Scares W. by N. ½ N., distant 4½ miles; Inchcolm W. NW. ¼ N., distant 6½ miles; Pettycur Light N. NW. ¼ N., distant 2½ miles; Kinghorn-ness N. NW. ¾ N. distant 2¼ miles.”

[Sidenote: Originally proposed to be a Leading light.]

This light-house was originally proposed to have been made a double or _leading light_, to guide ships up the Firth , and especially past the dangerous rock called the Ox-Scares, to the anchorage above Queensferry; but it was thought advisable to erect a light, in the first instance, upon the top of the island, and to defer the erection of a lower or western light till the effect of a single light should be tried. Such, however, appears to have been the benefit of the light on the top of the island, together with a cast-iron Beacon, which, at this time, was erected on the Ox-Scares, that the want of a second light-house on Inchkeith does not seem to have been much felt.

[Sidenote: Light duty for Inchkeith modified.]

By the existing acts of Parliament, the light-house Board is entitled to take the full duties of three halfpence _per_ ton, from the local trade of the Firth of Forth, for the light of Inchkeith, instead of which, only one halfpenny _per_ ton is exacted from such vessels as are not liable to the duty, in consequence of passing some other of the Northern Light-houses. The great utility of this light-house, and the equitable and liberal manner in which these duties are exacted, gave much satisfaction to the maritime and commercial interests of the country.

[Sidenote: Accommodation of Light-keepers’ houses extended.]

It may here be proper to observe, that the erection of Inchkeith Light-house, forms a new era in the works of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; which, as formerly observed, had been necessarily executed on the smallest, plainest and most simple plan that could be devised, and with such materials as could be easily transported, and most speedily erected, so as to meet the urgent calls of shipping, and answer the very limited state of the funds. But from the thriving condition of the trade of the country, the yearly duties which, in 1790, amounted only to L. 1477:5:1; in the year 1802 encreased to L. 4386:7:5. It was, therefore, considered advisable, from its being ultimately more economical, to erect and finish the several works of the light-house Board in the most substantial manner, and more like the buildings of a permanent National Establishment.

[Sidenote: Houses covered with leaden roofs.]

[Sidenote: Disadvantage of slated roofs.]

From the vicinity of Inchkeith to sandstone quarries, the buildings there were executed of aislar masonry. A platform roof covered with lead, and defended by a parapet wall, was adopted for the light-keepers’ house, instead of a slated roof, with garrets of the common construction; a slated roof being not only more liable to be injured by high winds, but when the attic apartments of such houses are occupied, the premises became more exposed to accident from fire. The slated roof, with iron nails, is also subject to decay, owing to the saline particles with which the air is impregnated, and the sprays of the sea, which, even in such situations as Inchkeith, are often blown over the island, though the site of the light-house is about 175 feet in height. Indeed, at all the original light-house stations in the north, the nails were soon rusted, and the slates getting loose, were often blown off in great numbers, so that in the very depth of Winter, the light-keepers have been obliged to make such a requisition as the following: “A slater is much wanted here, to repair the roof of the house, as upwards of 50 slates have been blown away during the late gales.” Instead, also, of a dwelling-house consisting of only two small apartments as formerly, the house at Inchkeith has four rooms, with other conveniencies, laid out for the accommodation of the families of a principal light-keeper and an assistant, who are now appointed to the charge of each of the Northern Light-houses.

[Sidenote: Construction of Light rooms improved.]

[Sidenote: Rendered Fire-proof.]

An entire change also took place at this period upon the construction of the Light-rooms and the reflecting apparatus, as well as in the extension and enlargement of the accommodation for the light-keepers. The early light-rooms were constructed wholly of timber, excepting the window-sash frames, which were made of cast-iron. The outside of the wooden cupola, covered with sheet copper, and the ceiling and floor with fire-proof plates of tinned iron. But it soon appeared that this construction was liable to great objections, particularly to the risk of accidental fire. The timber roof being also unavoidably shut up from the air, and exposed to a degree of heat sufficient to dry it to the state of tinder, its strength and fibrous qualities were soon lost, and the buildings in danger of being destroyed by the storms of winter. At Inchkeith, on the contrary, the roof is framed of iron, and covered with copper, and the floor is laid with flag-stones; while the window-frames, and all the materials exposed to the immediate action of the weather, are made of copper; the windows are glazed with plates of polished glass, measuring 29 inches by 18 inches, and ¼ of an inch in thickness, instead of sash panes of crown-glass, measuring only 12 inches by 8 inches, by which so many astragals were unavoidably introduced into the windows, that much of the light was obstructed and lost.

[Sidenote: Reflectors of Silvered Mirror-glass.]

[Sidenote: Reflectors of Copper, plated with Silver.]

[Sidenote: The use of Argand lamps and Spermaceti Oil introduced.]

The reflectors of the first of the Northern Light-houses were formed to the parabolic curve, upon principles susceptible of considerable accuracy; their powers were, however, small from their reflecting surfaces being composed of facets of silvered mirror-glass, and one point only of each facet coinciding with the curve of the parabola. As many of the rays are thus lost or weakened by transmission through the glass of the reflector, the light is much less brilliant than when reflected from a metallic speculum of a uniform parabolic figure, of a more white and dense body, such as silver. Another objection to mirror-glass reflectors, is the great number of interstices or subdivisions between the pieces of glass, which unavoidably induces a want of cleanliness and uniformity in the reflecting surface as a whole. The improvement upon this part of the reflecting apparatus, as more recently fitted up, consists in employing sheets of copper, plated or coated with silver, which, with much labour and great nicety of workmanship, are formed as nearly as may be into the parabolic curve,--a subject to which we shall again recur, in treating of the reflectors for the Bell Rock Light-house. Instead, also, of whale oil, and the use of the Common lamp, spermaceti oil, and the Argand lamp, were introduced at Inchkeith. Upon these principles, all the new erections of the Northern Light-houses are constructed; and such of the original light-houses, as require considerable repairs, are directed by the Board to be altered to the improved construction. But the erection of such a light-house as that of Inchkeith, in place of requiring an expenditure of only about L. 1000 like the original establishments, cost upwards of L. 5000.

[Sidenote: Inscription on Inchkeith Light-house.]

The light-house of Inchkeith having been erected before the late Mr Smith, the author’s predecessor, had retired from the situation of Engineer for the Northern Light-houses, and being the first of the light-houses erected upon the coast of Scotland on the recently improved principles, it is thought proper to give a plan and elevation of the house and offices, in one of the plates of this work, as a specimen of what is considered a very complete light-house establishment. It may also be noticed here, that the elevation of the light-house tower bears a tablet with the following inscription:--“For the direction of Mariners, and for the benefit of Commerce, this Light-house was erected by order of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses. It was founded on the 18th day of May, in the year 1803, and lighted on the 1st of September 1804. THOMAS SMITH, _Engineer_.”

[Sidenote: Pilots and Shipwrecked Seamen receive shelter.]

As part of the establishment at Inchkeith, a guard-room is provided for pilots. In the event also of shipwreck upon the coast, in the neighbourhood of any of the light-house stations, from the more extended state of the buildings, the unfortunate seamen are not only directed to be lodged in the best manner that the circumstances of the case will admit, but, in necessitous cases, ship-wrecked mariners have even been allowed a sum of money by the Light-house Board, to clothe and carry them to their respective homes. In this way, it has not unfrequently fallen to the lot of the keepers of the Northern Light-houses, to save the lives of perishing seamen, to succour many poor fishermen and pilots, as well as the half starved and unlucky individuals of _water parties_, when driven by stress of weather to these lone places of abode, for safety and shelter. In these varied forms, it will not be too much to suppose, that the practice of protecting the navigator in distress, which is said to have formed a chief part of the design of the _Fire Towers_ and _Nautical Colleges_ of the ancients, is thus in some measure restored.

_Start Point Light-house._

[Sidenote: ~1806.~]

[Sidenote: Shipwrecks still take place on Sanday.]

[Sidenote: Striking examples of this.]

Notwithstanding the precautions which had been taken to prevent the frequent occurrence of shipwreck upon the island of Sanday, by the erection of a Beacon or Tower of masonry on the Start Point, the loss of ships did not appear to be diminished. It had even become proverbial with some of the inhabitants to observe, “that if wrecks were to happen, they might as well be sent to the poor island of Sanday as any where else.” On this and the neighbouring islands, the inhabitants have certainly had their share of wrecked goods; for here the eye is presented with these melancholy remains in almost every form. For example, although quarries are to be met with generally in these islands, and the stones are very suitable for building dikes, yet instances occur of the land being inclosed, even to a considerable extent, with ship timbers. The author has actually seen a park paled round, chiefly with cedar wood and mahogany from the wreck of a Honduras built ship; and in one island, after the wreck of a ship laden with wine, the inhabitants have been known to take claret to their barley meal porridge, instead of their usual beverage. On complaining to one of the pilots of the badness of his boat’s sails, he replied to the author with some degree of pleasantry, “Had it been His (God’s) will that you came na here wi’ these lights, we might a’ had better sails to our boats and more o’ other things.” It may further be noticed, that when some of Lord Dundas’s farms are to be let in these islands, a competition takes place for the lease, and it is _bona fide_ understood, that a much higher rent is paid than the lands would otherwise give, were it not for the chance of making considerably by the agency and advantages attending shipwrecks on the shores of the respective farms. The author was so struck with some of these circumstances, that he collected, and shall here insert a list of shipwrecks for the twelve years immediately following the erection of North Ronaldsay light-house, in procuring which he was obligingly assisted by the Rev. William Grant, minister of Cross-kirk parish, including the island of North Ronaldsay, and part of Sanday.

[Sidenote: List of Shipwrecks for Twelve Years.]

LIST OF WRECKS on the contiguous islands of North Ronaldsay, Sanday and Stronsay, during a period of Twelve Years, immediately after the erection of North Ronaldsay Light-house, in 1789.

Key: A: Year. B: Voyage. C: Cargo. D: Tonnage. E: Supposed Value of Ship and Cargo.

+-----+-------------------------+------------------+-----+------------+ | A | B | C | D | E | +-----+-------------------------+------------------+-----+------------+ |1789.|Norway to America, |Spirits, &c. | 150 | L. 3500 0 0| |1790.|Hamburgh to do. |Cordage, &c. | 100 | 2800 0 0| |1792.|Norway to Wales, |Wood and Iron, | 90 | 1100 0 0| |---- |Sweden to Liverpool, |Grain, | 120 | 3100 0 0| |---- | Do. to Greenock, |Timber, | 400 | 3400 0 0| |1793.|Norway to Spain, |Fish and Oil, | 100 | 2000 0 0| |---- |Copenhagen to Santa Cruz,|Silks, &c. | 250 | 35,000 0 0| |1794.|Copenhagen to Surinam, |Muslins, &c. | 250 | 20,000 0 0| |---- | Do. to Dundee, |Flax, &c. | 90 | 2000 0 0| |1795.| Do. to America, |Cloth, &c. | 300 | 12,200 0 0| |1796.| Do. to Liverpool, |Timber, | 250 | 2500 0 0| |---- | Do. to Whitehaven,|Timber, | 150 | 1300 0 0| |---- |Liverpool to Ostend, |Wine and Rum, | 400 | 15,300 0 0| |1797.|Baltic to Liverpool, |Grain, | 120 | 3000 0 0| |1798.|Sweden to Hull, |Timber and Iron, | 200 | 2500 0 0| |---- |Norway to Liverpool. |Timber, | 200 | 1800 0 0| |---- | Do. to America, |Cloth, &c. | 200 | 5000 0 0| |---- |Altona to Do. |Spirits and Cloth,| 450 | 18,000 0 0| |---- |London to Gibraltar, |Stores, | 300 | 5000 0 0| |1799.| Do. to Dublin, |Staves, | 150 | 2200 0 0| |1800.|Hamburgh to America, |Cambric and Linen,| 200 | 45,000 0 0| |---- |Dantzic to Liverpool, |Timber, | 900 | 10,000 0 0| | ----------| |22 vessels wrecked in 12 years, supposed value L. 196,400 0 0| +---------------------------------------------------------------------+

[Sidenote: Start Point Tower proposed to be converted into a Light-house.]

[Sidenote: North Ronaldsay Light-house to be converted into a Beacon.]

This list of shipwrecks strongly points out the dangerous nature of the navigation of the seas and friths of the northern islands of Orkney. From a consideration of these numerous accidents, being almost at the rate of two wrecks in the year, and seeing the mangled remains of some fine ships which still appeared upon the island of Sanday, the author was induced to bring this matter again under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, in his report to the Board in the year 1805, when he proposed that the Start Point Beacon should be converted into a light-house, and that North Ronaldsay light should be discontinued, and its tower converted into a beacon, as wrecks were found to happen comparatively seldom upon that island, while hardly a year passed without instances of this kind on the island of Sanday; for, owing to the projecting points of this strangely formed island, the lowness and whiteness of its eastern shores, and the wonderful manner in which the scanty patches of land are intersected with lakes and pools of water, it becomes even in day-light a deception, and has often been fatally mistaken for an open sea. The removal of the light from North Ronaldsay to Sanday, was also calculated to be equally, if not more, useful to the navigation of North Ronaldsay Firth ; the Start Point being only four miles from the sunken rock called the Reef-dyke, as will be seen from the general chart of the coast which accompanies this work. It therefore appeared that if only a single light were allowed for the protection of this coast, it would be much better upon Sanday than on North Ronaldsay.

[Sidenote: Opinion of persons conversant with the Navigation of these Seas.]

On this subject, however, the author was instructed to take the opinion of persons acquainted with the navigation of these seas. Accordingly, when on his annual voyage to the Northern Light-houses, he submitted the subject to the consideration of Mr William Ellis, Commander of the Ross Revenue Cutter, who had then been cruising for several months off these islands, by order of Government, for intelligence relative to the motions of the Dutch fleet, which then threatened to attempt a landing on the Western Coast of Ireland. It was also submitted to Mr Riddoch, Collector, and Mr Manson, Comptroller of the Customs, at Kirkwall; to Mr John Traill, Mr Fotheringham, and Mr Strang of Sanday; and to the ship-masters of Kirkwall and Stromness. These gentlemen all united in opinion as to the superior usefulness of a light upon the island of Sanday.

[Sidenote: Light-house resolved on.]

This measure having been resolved on by the Board, the plans were remitted, with powers to proceed, to Mr William Rae, (now Sir William Rae, Bart. Lord Advocate of Scotland,) who was then Sheriff of the county of Orkney. The works at the Start Point were accordingly commenced early in the summer of 1805; by the month of November the light-room was finished, and the light exhibited on the 1st day of January 1806. Intimation was at the same time given to the public, that the beacon or tower of masonry erected in the year 1803, upon the island of Sanday, having been found insufficient for preventing the numerous shipwrecks upon the low shores of that island, had been converted into a light-house.

[Sidenote: Description of Start Point Light.]

The Start Point of Sanday is situate in the county of Orkney, in North Lat. 59° 20´, and Long. 2° 34´ west of London, from which North Ronaldsay light-house Tower bears by compass, N. NE. ½ E., distant 8 miles, and the Lamb Head of Stronsay SW., distant 15 miles. The light at the Start Point is from oil with reflectors, elevated 100 feet above the medium level of the sea, and is visible from all points of the compass, at the distance of 15 miles, in a favourable state of the atmosphere. To distinguish this light from the other lights on this coast, it is known to mariners as a _Revolving light, without colour_, exhibiting a brilliant light once in every minute, and becoming gradually less luminous; to a distant observer it totally disappears. In this manner, each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, alternately shows a brilliant light, and a light becoming fainter and more obscure, until it be totally eclipsed.

[Sidenote: The Foreman and Artificers sail for Leith in the Traveller.]

The alteration of the Start Point beacon into a light-house, and the erection of houses for the light-keepers, were placed under the management of Mr George Peebles, an experienced mason, and executed with every possible attention. When the works were completed, he, and such of the artificers as had been retained, proceeded to Stromness on the mainland of Orkney, from whence they were most likely to get a passage to the southward. The party consisted of six in number; and Charles Peebles, the foreman’s brother, wishing to go directly to his native place, took his passage in a vessel bound from Stromness to Anstruther, while Mr George Peebles, and the remaining four men, embarked on board of a schooner, called the Traveller, Cruickshanks master, bound for Leith.

[Sidenote: The Traveller is wrecked.]

[Sidenote: Captain Manby’s Apparatus much wanted.]

This vessel sailed with a fair wind early on the 24th of December 1806. On the following morning they got sight of Kinnaird Head light-house, in Aberdeenshire, and had the prospect of speedily reaching the Firth of Forth; but the wind having suddenly shifted to the south-east, increased to a tremendous gale, which did much damage on the coast. The Traveller immediately _put about_, and steered in quest of some safe harbour in Orkney. At two o’clock in the afternoon, she passed through the Pentland Firth , and got into the bay of Long Hope; but could not reach the proper anchorage; and, at three o’clock, both anchors were _let go_ in an outer roadstead. The storm still continuing with unabated force, the cables parted or broke, and the vessel drifted on the island of Flotta. The utmost efforts of those on board to pass a rope to the shore, with the assistance of the inhabitants of the island, proved ineffectual, (for want of some apparatus like Captain Manby’s); the vessel struck upon a shelving rock, and, night coming on, sunk in three fathoms water.

[Sidenote: The Foreman and four of the Artificers are drowned.]

Some of the unfortunate crew and passengers attempted to swim ashore, but in the darkness of the night, they either lost their way, or were dashed upon the rocks by the surge of the sea; while those who retained hold of the rigging of the ship, being worn out with fatigue and the piercing coldness of the weather during a long winter night, died before morning,--when the shore presented the dreadful spectacle of the wreck of no fewer than five vessels, with many lifeless bodies, the mournful subjects of the care and pity of the islanders. In one of these wrecks, all on board were lost; and, in the Traveller, only the cabin-boy escaped. This poor boy, from whom these particulars were learned, had, for a time, been sheltered from the severity of the blast, by one of the crew, but being at length left alone, he clung to the top-mast, from which he was with great difficulty removed in the morning, when the storm had somewhat abated.

A very trifling circumstance prevented the vessel bound for Anstruther, from leaving Stromness along with the Traveller, so that Charles Peebles escaped this gale, and arrived with the sad tidings of the fate of his brother and companions. In Mr George Peebles, the light-house service lost a most active and faithful servant, whose next charge would have been at the operations of the Bell Rock light-house. From the peculiar circumstances of this case, the Commissioners were pleased to grant small annuities to the mother of the foreman, and also to the family of another of the sufferers.

_Bell Rock Light-house._

[Sidenote: ~1807.~]

In the prosecution of the plan of this introductory account of the Northern Light-houses, we may observe that the attention of the Commissioners was occupied with the erection of the Bell Rock Light-house, during the years 1807, 8, 9, and 10. But as the detail of the operations of these four years forms the chief object of this work, it is not necessary that they should be further noticed here. We therefore proceed to the next operations of the Board, in the order of time.

_North Ronaldsay Beacon._

[Sidenote: ~1809.~]

[Sidenote: North Ronaldsay Light extinguished, and its Tower converted into a Beacon.]

It having been considered superfluous to have two light-houses on this part of the coast, within 8 miles of each other, the Light-house Board resolved to extinguish North Ronaldsay light, and convert its tower into a sea-mark, or beacon without a light. It was accordingly intimated in the newspapers of the principal ports of the United kingdom that the light on the Island of North Ronaldsay, in Orkney, situated in North Lat. 59° 40´, Long. 2° 15´ west of London, would be discontinued, and cease to be lighted from and after the 1st day of June 1809; but that the Light-house Tower would be preserved as a Beacon on the coast, by the erection of a Circular Ball of masonry, measuring 8 feet in diameter, instead of a Light-room. This beacon bears from the revolving light on the Start Point of Sanday, N.NE., ½ E. by compass, distant 8 miles, which continues to be lighted as heretofore, the Start Point having been found the most centrical position for a light-house to warn the mariner of his approach to the low shores of the North Isles of Orkney.

_Isle of May._

[Sidenote: ~1814.~]

[Sidenote: Light of May first Lighted 1635.]

[Sidenote: Patent ratified 1641.]

The island of May holds a prominent position at the entrance of the Firth of Forth, as will be seen by referring to the charts of the coast which accompany this work. From its connection also with the estuary leading to the Capital of Scotland, and the principal ports of her commerce, the light of May seems to have been the earliest public light on our shores. Over the entrance door of the old light-house tower, a stone, neatly cut into the figure by which the sun is usually represented, bears the date 1635. It appears, also, from the printed acts of the Scottish Parliament, Vol. v. p. 585., that power was granted, in the reign of Charles I., to James Maxwell of Innerwick, and John Cunninghame of Barnes, to erect a light-house upon the Isle of May, and collect certain duties from shipping for its maintenance: The patent for this purpose, was ratified by the Scots Parliament in 1641.

[Sidenote: Much complained of after the Union.]

The duties leviable for the light of May produced much dissatisfaction after the Union, English and Irish vessels having been charged with double rates, as foreigners. There was, besides, a general dislike to any thing that was payable in the form of a tax being held as private property. This light being also a coal-fire, exposed in an open choffer to the vicissitudes of the weather, was found to be very insufficient. After the appointment of a Light-house Board in Scotland, in the year 1786, the shipping interest often expressed a desire that the light of May should be included as one of the Northern Lights; that it might undergo the most recent improvements; that, according to the spirit and conditions of the Northern Light-house acts, the invidious distinction between the shipping of the same kingdom, with regard to the light-house duties, might be done away; and also that there might be some prospect of the duties being modified, and ultimately ceasing. In the year 1809, the author foreseeing, that notwithstanding the erection of the Bell Rock light-house, the navigation of this part of the coast would still be very incomplete, unless the light of May were improved, took an opportunity of bringing this subject under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; but it did not then appear that this could be taken up by the Board, unless it were at the instance of the proprietor.

[Sidenote: Family of Scotstarvit become Proprietors of the Island.]

[Sidenote: Chamber of Commerce get the Light Improved.]

[Sidenote: Wemyss Coal preferred for the Lights.]

The family of Scotstarvit, into whose hands the property of the island and light of May came by purchase, in 1714, along with the estate of Westbarnes, in East Lothian, had long been solicited by the trade of the Firth of Forth, to have the light made better, either by enlarging the choffer for containing the coals, or by altering it to an oil light with reflectors. Statements to this effect having been laid before the proprietor, by the Chamber of Commerce of Edinburgh, a Committee of that body visited the island in the year 1786, and reported on the state of the light. In consequence of the representation of this Committee, the choffer was enlarged to the capacity of a square of three feet; and, instead of about 200 tons of coal _per annum_, formerly consumed, the quantity of fuel was now doubled. The Chamber further recommended, that the stock of coals, hitherto exposed to the open air on the island, should in future be kept under cover, and that the supply should be invariably got from the collieries of Wemyss, which were preferred as fittest for maintaining a steady light, Wemyss coal being then used at Heligoland, and other coal-lights upon the Continent.

[Sidenote: Light of May considered the best Coal-Light in the kingdom.]

[Sidenote: Portland Family get possession of the Island.]

These conditions were most readily complied with by the tutors of Miss Scott, the proprietor; and the light of May, from that period, was found to be very considerably improved, the choffer for containing the fuel being about double the capacity of any other light-house choffer on the coast of Great Britain. The light of May, from this period, may therefore be described as the most powerful coal-light in the kingdom, although, from its exposure, it was still found to be very unsteady, in bad weather, when most required by the mariner. Lime-kilns and other accidental open fires upon the neighbouring shores, were also apt to be mistaken for the Isle of May choffer. To obviate such dangerous mistakes, there was no other method but the introduction of a light from oil, with reflectors, inclosed in a glazed light-room. The Trinity-house of Leith, in the year 1790, presented a memorial to this effect, to the Duke of Portland, into whose possession the light and Isle of May had come by his Grace’s marriage with Miss Scott of Scotstarvit. But after many fruitless applications urged from time to time by the Merchants of Leith, to have the light altered, the measure was at length given up by them as hopeless.

[Sidenote: Loss of the Nymphen and Pallas Frigates.]

[Sidenote: Their prize-ship arrives in safety.]

[Sidenote: Nine men drowned.]

Early in the morning of the 19th day of December 1810, however, two of his Majesty’s ships, the frigates Nymphen and Pallas, had the misfortune to be wrecked near Dunbar, in consequence, it is believed, of the light of a lime-kiln on the coast of Haddingtonshire having been mistaken for the coal light of the island of May. These frigates having come along the northern coast of Scotland, their situation, as may be seen from the annexed maps, was very different from that of ships approaching the land from a distant voyage, who are much more liable to mistakes of this kind. But what renders the error in this instance more unaccountable is, that one of the ships had even sent a boat ashore at Johnshaven, on the opposite coast of Kincardineshire, in the afternoon of the day preceding their loss; and the other, about the same time and place, dispatched a small prize for Leith Roads, under the command of a Midshipman,--who, in his course up the Firth of Forth, saw the Bell Rock floating light, (for at this time the light-house was not completed),--then the lights on the islands of May and Inchkeith in succession, and before day-light in the morning of the 19th he anchored his little vessel in the Roads. In reporting the prize to the Admiral at Leith, this young gentleman expressed his surprise that the frigates had not reached their station before him. In the course of the forenoon of the same day, however, an express arrived, stating the circumstance of the loss of the Pallas, which had happened in the course of the night, about two miles to the eastward of Dunbar. Soon afterwards, another notice arrived announcing to the Admiral the loss of the Nymphen Frigate in the same manner, and from the same mistake. It is not a little surprising, that although these ships had sailed in company, and were wrecked within a few miles of each other, their similar fate was perfectly unknown by the respective crews, till late in the day on which the accidents happened. It was, however, so far fortunate, that although the ships became total wrecks, only nine men were lost of their joint crews, amounting to about 600 men; all of whom might probably have perished, from the rocky and exposed shore on which they were stranded, had not the weather been very moderate.

[Sidenote: Lord Melville applies to the Light-house Board about the Isle of May Light.]

[Sidenote: Duke of Portland proposes to alter the Light;]

[Sidenote: And proposes that the Commissioners should become Lessees, which is rejected.]

[Sidenote: The Duke demands L. 63,000 for the Light duties and Island.]

Immediately after the loss of these two fine frigates, valued at not less than L. 100,000, Lord Viscount Melville, first Lord of the Admiralty, applied to the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, proposing that the light of May should be assumed as one of the northern lights, and forthwith put under proper regulations. It may here be proper to notice, that, prior to this accident, the Duke of Portland entertained serious intentions of altering this light; and the author had been employed to report to his Grace on its alteration, from the use of pit-coal to oil, with reflectors, the expence of which he had estimated at the annual sum of L. 600. The communication from the Admiralty gave rise to a correspondence between the Light-house Commissioners and the Duke of Portland, who proposed to give the Light-house Board an allowance of L. 600 _per annum_, for taking burden of the light of May, while his Grace was to continue to levy the duties. This proposal was rejected on the part of the Commissioners, who declined becoming lessees, under the existing acts or constitution of their Board; and it was ultimately concluded, that they could only take up this measure as purchasers for the public, in order to abolish the charge on English and Irish vessels paying as foreigners, and to lessen the duty for that light to the trade in general. In the present state of the light-house funds, this purchase could only be made by a special act of Parliament, and with pecuniary aid from Government: as the sum demanded by the Duke for the island, and the right to the light-duties, was unavoidably great, amounting to no less than Sixty Thousand Guineas.

[Sidenote: Memorial presented to the Admiralty.]

[Sidenote: Isle of May and Duties purchased at L. 60,000.]

In the mean time, Mr Cuningham, Secretary to the Light-house Board, was directed to acquaint Mr Walker, the Duke of Portland’s agent, that the Commissioners could not treat for upholding the light of May for payment of an annual sum. A memorial was then drawn up for the Admiralty, of the whole proceedings in this measure, which was presented by Sir William Rae, Bart., on the part of the Light-house Board; when their Lordships were pleased to give their countenance and support to a bill for the purchase of the light duties and island of May. This bill was accordingly brought into Parliament, and passed in the Session of 1814, authorising a loan of L. 30,000 to be made from the Treasury to the Commissioners of Northern Light-houses, and empowering them to make the purchase from the Duke of Portland, for the sum of L. 60,000.

[Sidenote: Duty of the Light of May reduced by the Act of 1814.]

This important transaction having been closed, the Light-house Board, in terms of this act (46th George III. chap. cxxxvi.) were empowered to reduce the light-duty of the Isle of May, to all _British_ vessels, from one penny half-penny, as collected heretofore, to one penny _per_ ton, when English and Irish ships were no longer treated as foreigners, by paying double dues. Immediate measures were also taken for altering and improving the light. It was, however, too late at the end of the session of 1814, to commence operations on the island; but, in the following summer, the new light-house was erected, and a light from oil with reflectors was exhibited, on the 1st day of February 1816, after a coal-light had been continued here for 181 years, or from 1635.

[Sidenote: Additional Apartments at the Isle of May.]

As the island of May lies about half way between the light-houses of Inch Keith and the Bell Rock, it was thought proper to have two or three apartments in the May Light-house for the reception of such members of the Light-house Board, as might happen to be detained by contrary winds in occasional visits to the Bell Rock, upon which landing is often very difficult and precarious, depending both on the state of the weather and the tides. The dwelling-house at the Isle of May, therefore, is larger than would otherwise have been required for the accommodation of the two light-keepers and their families.

[Sidenote: Notice given of the alterations at Isle of May and Inchkeith.]

In consequence of this change upon the light of May, notice was given to the public, that it had been assumed one of the Northern Light-houses, and that the Commissioners had directed a new light-house, upon improved principles, to be erected, which would not only alter its former appearance, but also occasion a change on the light of Inchkeith, situate about twenty-two miles farther up the Firth of Forth. The following description of the Isle of May light was published.

[Sidenote: Description of the Light of May.]

[Sidenote: Old Light-house converted into a Pilot’s Guard-room.]

“The light-house on the Island of May, is situate at the entrance of the Firth of Forth, in North Lat. 56° 12´, and Long. 2° 36´ west of London. From the light-house, Fifeness bears, by compass, N. by E. ½ E., distant five miles, and the Staple Rocks lying off Dunbar, S. by W. ½ W., distant ten miles. The light being formerly from coal, exposed to the weather in an open grate or choffer, was discontinued on the night of the 1st day of February 1816, when a light from oil, with reflectors, known to mariners as a _Stationary Light_, was exhibited. The new light-house tower, upon the Island of May, is contiguous to the site of the old one, and is elevated 240 feet above the medium level of the sea, of which the masonry forms 57 feet, and is therefore similar to the old tower in point of height. The new light is defended from the weather in a glazed light-room, and has a uniformly _steady_ appearance, resembling a star of the first magnitude, and is seen from all points of the compass, at the distance of about seven leagues, and intermediately according to the state of the atmosphere.”--The old light-house tower on the Island of May, has been reduced in height to about 20 feet, and by directions of the Light-house Board, it has been converted into a _guard-room_ like that upon Inchkeith, for the use and conveniency of pilots and fishermen.

_Inchkeith Revolving Light._

[Sidenote: Description of Inchkeith Revolving Light.]

The above description, in so far as regards the appearance of the light of May being exactly applicable to that of Inchkeith, described at page 25. of this Introduction, it was found expedient to alter it from a stationary to a revolving light, that it might be distinguished from the light of May, where a revolving light would have been liable to be mistaken for the Bell Rock light, owing to the more contiguous position of the May island to the Bell Rock.

The light upon Inchkeith, hitherto a stationary light from oil, with reflectors, was therefore altered and converted into that description of light known to mariners as a _Revolving light without colour_, on the same night that the change took place upon the Isle of May. The light of Inchkeith is seen from all points of the compass, at the distance of five leagues in favourable weather, exhibiting a bright light once in every minute, and gradually becoming less luminous, it totally disappears to a distant observer. In this manner, each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, alternately shows a brilliant light, which becomes fainter, and more obscure, until it is totally eclipsed. By this alteration, the same description and appearance of the other lights upon the coast is preserved, and the possibility of mistaking Inchkeith light for the numerous lights on the land, with which it is surrounded, is now also effectually prevented.

_Corsewall._

[Sidenote: ~1815.~]

[Sidenote: Additional Light proposed for the western coast on Corsewall Point.]

It had long been the wish of the mercantile interest of the Firth of Clyde and St George’s Channel, to have a light on the coast of Galloway, to direct ships, on the Scotch side, into the Irish Channel. From the great amount of light-house duties collected upon the western coast, and the extent of light-house works which had of late years been erected upon the eastern shores, including the Bell Rock and Isle of May light-houses, the Commissioners were desirous of accommodating the trade of the western coast, as far as the demands of shipping required, or the state of the light-house funds would permit. It was accordingly resolved, that a report upon this subject, made to the Light-house Board by the author, should be submitted to the trade of Liverpool, Glasgow and Greenock, for their observations. Having in this manner procured the necessary information, it was resolved that a light-house should be erected for the benefit of this coast, upon the northern extremity of the Mull of Galloway in Wigtonshire, on the point of Corsewall; because, in addition to the advantages of this situation, as an excellent direction both for the entrance of the Irish Channel and Firth of Clyde, it would answer as a guide to the Roadstead or anchorage of Loch Ryan.

[Sidenote: Light-houses necessary for the navigation of the Irish Channel.]

In the course of the correspondence on this subject, it had been stated by Mr Quintin Leitch, Chief Magistrate of Greenock, a gentleman well acquainted with the navigation of these seas, that if light-houses were erected upon the Isle of Man, these, with the lights of Copeland and Kilwarlin, on the Irish side of the channel, together with the proposed light on Corsewall Point, and another on the Hulin or Maiden rocks, off the coast of Antrim, would fully protect this important part of the coast.

[Sidenote: Foundation-stone of Corsewall Light-house laid.]

After considering the subject in its various bearings, the Board resolved, as before noticed, on the erection of a light-house on Corsewall Point, in the month of January 1815, and on the 17th day of June following, the foundation-stone was laid, by Mr Quintin Leitch, as master mason, when Mr James Spreull, Chamberlain of the city of Glasgow, Mr Lachlan Kennedy, under whose charge the works were placed, and the Engineer, assisted at the ceremony. In the course of the Summer and Autumn, the tower of this light-house was got to the height of 35 feet, and some progress was also made with the walls of the house for the light-keepers.

[Sidenote: ~1816.~]

[Sidenote: Light-house finished.]

The works at Corsewall being suspended during winter, were again resumed in the ensuing spring. The light-room was completed in the autumn, and the light was exhibited to the public on the night of the 15th day of November 1816, agreeably to the following description.

[Sidenote: Description of Corsewall Light.]

“Corsewall light-house is situate in the county of Wigton, in North Lat. 55° 1´, and West Long. 5° 5´. It bears by compass, from Millour Point, on the western side of the channel leading into Loch Ryan, W. by S., distant about two miles; from Turnberry Point, SW. 21 miles; from the Craig of Ailsa SS. W. 15 miles; from the Mull of Kintyre S. E. S. 31 miles; from the Hulin or Maiden rocks on the coast of Antrim, E. by S. 20 miles; from Copeland Light-house, near the entrance of Belfast loch, NE. ½ E. 22 miles, and from Laggan point in Galloway, NE., distant 3½ miles. To distinguish this light, which is from oil, with a reflecting and revolving apparatus, from the other lights upon the coast, it is known to mariners as a _Revolving light with colour_, and exhibits from the same light-room a light of the natural appearance, alternating with a light tinged with a red colour. These lights, respectively, attain their greatest strength, or most luminous effect, at the end of every two minutes. But, in the course of each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, the lights become alternately fainter and more obscure, and, to a distant observer, are totally eclipsed for a short period. The light-room at Corsewall is glazed all round, but the light is hid from the mariner by the high land near Laggan Point, towards the south, and by Turnberry Point towards the north. This light is elevated 112 feet above the medium level of the sea, and its most luminous side may be seen like a star of the first magnitude, at the distance of five or six leagues, but the side tinged red being more obscured by the colouring shades, is not seen at so great a distance.”

_Isle of Man._

[Sidenote: Rate of Light-house duties for the Isle of Man.]

The subject of the erection of the light-houses on the Isle of Man, having again been agitated by the merchants of Liverpool, the rates of duty which would probably be demanded for the erection of a light-house upon the Calf of Man, was procured from one of the agents of the Trinity-House of London upon that coast. This schedule of duties appearing to be high, a correspondence took place between Mr William Laird of Liverpool, and Mr Quintin Leitch of Greenock, respecting the rate of Scotch light-house duties, which was ultimately brought under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-Houses, by Sir William Rae, Bart.

[Sidenote: ~1802.~]

[Sidenote: Author’s Report on this subject.]

Reference having been made to the author relative to the expence of erecting a light-house upon the Calf of Man, he stated to the Board, that, in the course of a tour which he had made in the year 1802, round the coast of Great Britain, he visited the Isle of Man, with a view to ascertain the most eligible places for light-houses on that island, where he considered two light-house stations to be indispensably necessary, viz. one on the Calf of Man, to the south, and another on the Point of Ayre, towards the north of the island. From the numerous shipping of that district, he only calculated upon the duty of one farthing _per_ ton upon shipping for the light-houses of both stations. The Commissioners took this matter under consideration at the time, as appears from their minutes of the 14th January 1803, which state, that “Mr Stevenson had reported very strongly of the great utility which would attend the erection of light-houses on the Isle of Man; but that island not being within the jurisdiction either of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses or Trinity Board of London, both boards seem thereby to be prevented from accomplishing an object so much wished for by mariners, as such an improvement upon the coast would prove a great additional security to the navigation of those seas, and especially to the trade of a great number of the ports of England and Ireland. In order, therefore, that this circumstance might not be overlooked, the Commissioners direct this notice to be taken of it in their minutes, that if an application to Parliament should, at a future period, be deemed necessary, they may judge how far it may not be proper in them to apply for power to erect lights upon the Isle of Man.”

[Sidenote: Scotch Light-house Board applied to for lights on the Isle of Man.]

When these circumstances were intimated to the merchants of Liverpool, and especially that the rate of one farthing _per_ ton was considered a sufficient rate of duty, the business was brought under the notice of the Association of Shipowners and other public bodies of Liverpool, by Mr John Gladstone, when a representation and petition from them was presented to the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, praying, that they would bring a bill into Parliament, to enable them to erect the necessary light-houses on the Isle of Man.

[Sidenote: Act of 1815.]

This application having been complied with, Sir William Rae was requested to attend to the progress of the bill, and to take the assistance of any of the other members of the light-house board who might happen to be in London at the time. The Isle of Man Light-house Bill was accordingly brought forward by Mr Huskisson, in absence of Mr Canning, member of Parliament for Liverpool, as a measure in which that port was specially interested. But when the subject was communicated to the late Mr Rose, M. P., one of the elder brethren of the Trinity House of London, he requested that nothing might be done in this measure, until he should have an opportunity of consulting with the gentlemen of the Trinity-House, as he considered the Isle of Man to be within the district of that board. After repeated meetings, at which Mr Rose attended, he ultimately stated, that the Trinity Board did not consider the Isle of Man as coming under their line of coast; and that the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses might, therefore, go on with their bill. It was accordingly brought forward in the House of Commons, and the author attended to prove the preamble of the bill in the House of Lords; and in June 1815 it received the Royal assent.

[Sidenote: Difficulty in fixing the position of the Isle of Man lights.]

In returning towards Scotland, I embarked in the Light-house Yacht at Liverpool, and visited the Isle of Man. It appeared, on examining the site for the erection of a light-house on the Point of Ayre, or northern extremity of the island, that there would be no difficulty in fixing its place. But the case was different at the Calf Island, as there seemed an evident advantage in having the house on a low situation, to keep it more free from fog, and where it might also be more in the line of direction with a dangerous reef called the Chickens, lying about a mile into the offing. On this low position, called Kaager Point, the high land of the Calf would have shut in the light very much from the northward. Another situation, however, presented itself; but, as this last station was considerably higher, it might perhaps be found more uncertain with regard to fog resting upon it in thick and hazy weather; and it was therefore thought prudent to place a trusty person on the island, with directions for observing and communicating the state of the weather for about six months, previously to determining the site of the light-house on the Calf of Man. This mode of inquiring into the subject, was strengthened by the report of some intelligent persons relative to the prevailing state of the weather at the Isle of Man, who represented that the Calf Island was less liable to be enveloped in fog than the higher parts of the Main Island.

[Sidenote: A person stationed on the Island to observe the state of the weather.]

In the month of August 1815, when Sir William Rae, Bart. then Sheriff of the shire of Edinburgh, Mr Robert Hamilton, Sheriff of Lanarkshire, and Mr Adam Duff, Sheriff of Forfarshire, Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, visited this island, they concurred in judging it highly proper to make special observations on the state of the weather at the Calf Island. In the beginning of November following, the author accordingly sent Mr Macurich, a shipmaster in the light-house service, to that island, with directions to reside there, and make monthly returns of the state of the weather, agreeably to a printed form. During his stay of seven months, it appears, upon the whole, that the fog rested only twice upon the highest land of the Calf, while it cleared partially below. On one of these occasions, I was on board of the Light-house yacht, then at anchor off the island, when the fog was for a time general; and as the weather became clear, I observed that it first disappeared upon the lower parts of the island; and that in half an hour the whole of the Calf was seen. In the journal of the weather alluded to, the Calf Island is represented as often perfectly free of fog, while the higher parts of the opposite mainland of Man, was hid in mist. To account for this, it may be noticed, that the mass of matter in the Calf island is much less, and the land is also much lower, than in the main island. Part of this effect may also be ascribed to the rapidity of the tides, which create a current of wind, particularly in the narrow channel between the Main and Calf islands; which have a direct tendency to clear away the fog; as I have observed at the Skerries in the Pentland Firth , and in similar situations on different parts of the coast, where rapid currents prevail.

[Sidenote: ~1816.~]

[Sidenote: Distinguishing Light for the Calf of Man.]

From these observations, the author was led to report to the Commissioners, that the light-house on the Calf of Man should hold an intermediate position between the highest part of the island, called Bushel’s Hill, and the lower site called Kaager Point; and, further, that by erecting two light-house towers in a certain relative position to each other, they would point out the line of direction of the dangerous sunken rocks called the Chickens, and by adopting that description of light known to mariners as a _Revolving light without Colour