André Michaux's Travels into Kentucky, 1793-96; François André Michaux's Travels West of Alleghany Mountains, 1802; Thaddeus Mason Harris's Journal of a Tour Northwest of Alleghany Mountains, 1803.

Transcriber’s Note:

Words and phrases in italics are surrounded by underscores, _like this_. Long ‘s’ (ſ) were converted to ‘s’. Footnotes were moved to the end of each book. There are two anchors to footnote [122] in André Michaux’s Travels.

Obvious printing errors, such as backwards, upside down, missing or partially printed letters and punctuation, were corrected. Final stops missing at the end of sentences and abbreviations were added. In the second book, manuscript page numbers are displayed within brackets, e.g. {36}.

Words may have inconsistant spelling, diacriticals and hyphenation in the text. These were left unchanged, as were obsolete and alternative spellings. Except as noted below, misspelled words were not corrected.

The following were changed:

answer to answers ... sometimes answers their purpose ... wool to wood ... also made of wood,... prevous to previous ... the year previous;...

[Illustration: Fr. André Michaux]

Early Western Travels

1748-1846

A Series of Annotated Reprints of some of the best and rarest contemporary volumes of travel, descriptive of the Aborigines and Social and Economic Conditions in the Middle and Far West, during the Period of Early American Settlement

Edited with Notes, Introductions, Index, etc., by

Reuben Gold Thwaites

Editor of “The Jesuit Relations and Allied Documents,” “Wisconsin Historical Collections,” “Chronicles of Border Warfare,” “Hennepin’s New Discovery,” etc.

Volume III

André Michaux’s Travels into Kentucky, 1793-96. François André Michaux’s Travels West of Alleghany Mountains, 1802. Thaddeus Mason Harris’s Journal of a Tour Northwest of Alleghany Mountains, 1803

[Illustration]

Cleveland, Ohio The Arthur H. Clark Company 1904

Copyright 1904, By The Arthur H. Clark Company

All Rights Reserved

The Lakeside Press

R. R. Donnelley & Sons Company Chicago

Contents Of Volume III

PREFACE. _The Editor_ 11

I

JOURNAL OF TRAVELS INTO KENTUCKY; July 15, 1793--April 11, 1796. _André Michaux_ 25

II

TRAVELS TO THE WEST OF THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS, in the States of Ohio, Kentucky, and Tennessea, and back to Charleston, by the Upper Carolines ... undertaken in the year 1802. September 24, 1801--March 1, 1803. _François André Michaux_ 105

III

THE JOURNAL OF A TOUR INTO THE TERRITORY NORTHWEST OF THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS; made in the Spring of the Year 1803. April 7--“beginning of July.” _Thaddeus Mason Harris, A.M._ 307

Illustrations To Volume III

I. Portrait of François André Michaux. _From oil painting in possession of American Philosophical Society at Philadelphia_ Frontispiece

II. Carte des Etats du Centre, de l’Ouest et du Sud des Etats-Unis, 1804 [From the original French edition] 108

III. Photographic facsimile of title-page to François André Michaux’s _Travels_ 109

IV. Photographic facsimile of title-page to Harris’s _Journal_ 309

V. Photographic facsimile of Map of Alleghany and Yohiogany Rivers; from Harris’s _Journal_ 331

VI. Photographic facsimile of Map of the State of Ohio, by Rufus Putnam; from Harris’s _Journal_ 351

Preface To Volume III

We publish in this volume André Michaux’s journal of his travels into Kentucky from 1793-96, Englished by us from the French version in the _Proceedings_ of the American Philosophical Society; a reprint of the English version of _Travels to the West of the Alleghany Mountains_, made in 1802 by his son, François André Michaux; and a reprint of Thaddeus Mason Harris’s _Journal of a Tour into the Territory Northwest of the Alleghany Mountains, made in the Spring of the Year 1803_--omitting, however, as unnecessary to our present purpose, the appendix thereto.

_The Michauxs_

André Michaux, whose name is known to scientists of both hemispheres, was born at Satory, Versailles, in 1746. Destined by his father for the superintendence of a farm belonging to the royal estate, Michaux early became interested in agriculture, even while pursuing classical studies. Upon the death of his young wife, Cecil Claye, which occurred at the birth of their son, François André (1770), he devoted himself to scientific studies in the effort to overcome his grief. These naturally took the direction of botany, and Michaux became imbued with a desire to seek for strange plants in foreign countries. From 1779-81 he travelled in England, the Auvergne, and the Pyrenees; and later (1782-85), in Persia, botanizing, and studying the political situation of the Orient. He had intended to return to Persia, but while in France (1785) the government requested that he should proceed to North America in order to make a study of forest trees, and experiment with regard to their transplantation to France. Accordingly, in the autumn of 1785, he left France, taking with him his young son.

Landing in New York he passed a year and a half in that vicinity, herborizing, and attempting a botanical garden. Finding the latitude of the Southern states, however, more suited to his enterprise, he removed in the spring of 1787 to Charleston. Purchasing a plantation about ten miles from the city, he entered with enthusiasm into the search for new plants and their culture upon his estate. In this year he explored the mountains of the Carolinas, and a twelve-month later made a difficult and hazardous journey through the swamps and marshes of Florida. The next year (1789) was occupied by a voyage to the Bahamas, and another search among the mountains for plants of a commercial nature--notably ginseng, whose utility he taught the mountaineers.

In 1794 he undertook a most difficult expedition to Canada and the arctic regions about Hudson Bay, and upon his return proposed to the American Philosophical Society at Philadelphia an exploration of the great West by way of the Missouri River. A subscription was begun for this purpose, and Jefferson drafted for him detailed instructions for the journey;[1] but his services were needed in another direction, and the Missouri exploration was abandoned for a political mission.

The discontent of the Western settlers with regard to the free navigation of the Mississippi had reached an acute stage; the French minister to the United States had come armed with instructions to secure the co-operation of trans-Allegheny Americans for a raid upon the Spanish territory of Louisiana, aimed to recover that province for the power to which it had formerly belonged, and make it a basis for revolutionary movements in Canada, the West Indies, and ultimately all Spanish America.[2] This minister arrived in Charleston in February, 1793, and selected Michaux as his agent to communicate with the Kentucky leaders. An ardent republican, already in the pay of the French government, and friendly with influential men in government circles, Michaux seemed a most desirable as well as the most available agent possible. One characteristic was not, however, sufficiently considered. Whatever may have been his interest in the intrigue, whatever accounts thereof are through caution or prudence omitted from the journal here printed, one fact is evident--that Michaux was chiefly devoted to the cause of science; these pages reveal that a rare plant or new tree interested him much more than an American general or a plot to subvert Spanish tyranny.

His first Kentucky journey was, from the point of view of the diplomats, but moderately successful. With the collapse of the enterprise--due to the imprudence of Genet, the firmness of Washington, the growing loyalty of the Westerners to the new federal government, and the change of leaders in France--Michaux returned to botanical pursuits, and his later journeys appear to have been undertaken solely in order to herborize. There are, however, some slight indications in the text that he entertained hope of continuing the enterprise, and of its ultimate success. His inquiries, in the Cumberland, for guides for the Missouri expedition, prove that he had by no means abandoned his purpose of undertaking that hazardous project.

But these long Western journeys had exhausted his resources; for seven years he had had no remittance from the French government, and was now under the necessity of returning to Europe to attend to his affairs. Accordingly in 1796 he embarked for France, and was shipwrecked on the coast of Holland, losing part of his collections; but his herbarium was preserved, and is now in the Musée de Paris. He ardently desired to be sent back to America; but his government offered him no encouragement, and finally he accepted a post upon an expedition to New Holland, and in November, 1802, died of fever upon the island of Madagascar.

His son, François André, entered into his father’s pursuits and greatly assisted him. While yet a lad, he accompanied him on several arduous journeys in America; at other times remaining upon the plantation, engaged in the care of the transplanted trees. He returned to France some years before his father, in order to study medicine, and in the year of the latter’s death was commissioned by the French minister of the interior to proceed to the United States to study forests and agriculture in general.

The journal of his travels was not originally intended for print; but the interest aroused in the Western region of the United States by the sale of Louisiana, induced its publication. The first French edition appeared in 1804, under the title, _Voyage à l’ouest des Monts Alléghanys, dans les États de l’Ohio, et du Kentucky, et du Tennessée, et retour a Charleston par les Hautes-Carolines_. Another edition appeared in 1808. The first was soon Englished by B. Lambert, and two editions with different publishers issued from London presses in 1805. The same year another translation, somewhat abridged, appeared in volume i of Phillip’s _Collection of Voyages_. Neither of these translations is well executed. The same year, a German translation issued from the Weimar press.

The younger Michaux continued to be interested in the study of trees, and spent several years in preparing the three volumes of _Histoire des Arbres forestiers de l’Amérique Septentrionale_, which appeared in 1810-13. This was translated, and passed through several English editions, with an additional volume added by Thomas Nuttall under the title of _The North American Sylva_.

Michaux’s report on the naturalization of American forest trees, made to the Société d’Agriculture du département de la Seine, was printed in 1809.[3] His “Notice sur les Isles Bermudas, et particulièrement sur l’Isle St. George” was published in _Annales des Sciences naturelles_ (1806), volume viii. He also assisted in editing his father’s work, _Histoire des Chênes de l’Amérique_; and his final publication on American observations was _Mémoire sur les causes de la fièvre jaune_, published at Paris in 1852. Dr. Michaux died at Vauréal, near Pontoise, in 1855.

In 1824 the younger Michaux presented to the American Philosophical Society at Philadelphia the notebooks containing the diary of his father’s travels in America--all save those covering the first two years (1785-87), which were lost in the shipwreck on the coast of Holland. The value of these journals has long been known to scientists; their larger interest, as revealing both political and social conditions in the new West, will perhaps be first recognized upon this presentation of them in English form. Written “by the light of his lonely campfires, during brief moments snatched from short hours of repose, in the midst of hardships and often surrounded by dangers,” their literary form is deficient, and frequent gaps occur, which doubtless were intended to be filled in at some future moments of leisure. This was prevented by the author’s untimely death in the midst of his labors. For nearly a century the journals existed only in manuscript. In 1884 Charles S. Sargent, director of the Arnold Arboretum of Harvard University, prepared the manuscript for the press, with explanatory notes chiefly on botanical matters.[4] It was published in the original French, in the American Philosophical Society _Proceedings_, 1889, pp. 1-145.

From this journal of nearly eleven years’ travel in America--from Florida on the south, to the wilds of the Hudson Bay country on the north, from Philadelphia and Charleston on the Atlantic coast to the most remote Western settlements, and the Indian lands of the Illinois, Kentucky, and Tennessee--we have selected for translation and inclusion within our series, the portions that concern particularly the trans-Allegheny region. These relate to the expedition made to Kentucky by way of the Ohio (1793), with the return over the Wilderness Road and through the Valley of Virginia; and the longer journey (1795-96) from Charleston to Tennessee, thence through Kentucky to the Illinois, and back by a similar route with side excursions on the great Western rivers.

The journals of the elder Michaux “record the impressions of a man of unusual intelligence--a traveller in many lands, who had learned by long practice to use his eyes to good advantage and to write down only what they saw.” A part of the value of these documents to a student of Western history consists in their accurate and succinct outline of the areas of colonization. The extent and boundaries of Michaux’s travels enable us to map with considerable accuracy the limits of the settled regions--first, that from Pittsburg down the Ohio to just below Marietta; then, after passing a region without a town, between Gallipolis and Limestone (Maysville, Kentucky), the traveller enters the thickly occupied area of Kentucky, bounded on the south and west by the “barrens,” into which emigration was beginning to creep. In the Illinois, Michaux’s unfavorable comment upon the French habitants is in accord with that of other visitors of the same nationality; his travels therein show that the small French group were the only settlers, save a few venturesome Americans at Bellefontaine, and “Corne de Cerf.” In East Tennessee, the outpost was Fort Southwest Point, where the Clinch and Holston meet; thence, a journey of a hundred and twenty miles through “the Wilderness” brought one to the frontier post of the Cumberland settlements, at Bledsoe’s Lick. Upon Michaux’s return, nearly a year later, the Cumberland frontier had extended, and Fort Blount had been built forty miles to the eastward as a protection for the ever-increasing number of travellers and pioneers. The western borders of Cumberland were also rapidly enlarging. Clarksville, on the Cumberland River at the mouth of the Red, had long been on the extreme border in this direction; but Michaux found daring settlements stretching out beyond, seizing the rich river bottoms and organizing a town as a nucleus for scattered planters.

Michaux faithfully presents the conditions that confronted travellers in his day--the lack of inns, the straying of horses with the consequent annoyance and delay, the inadequate means for crossing rivers, the frequent necessity for waiting until a sufficient body of travellers had collected to act as a guard through the uninhabited regions. He also traversed nearly all the routes by which emigration was pouring into the Western country--the Wilderness Road to Kentucky, the routes from North Carolina over the mountains to East Tennessee, the Wilderness Road of Tennessee (this last a narrow and dangerous link with the Cumberland settlements), the paths thither to Louisville, and the Indian trails thence to the Illinois; as well as the river routes--the Mississippi, the Ohio, and the Cumberland.

Glimpses of the chief founders of the Western country are tantalizing by their meagreness. We should have valued more detailed accounts of conversations with Clark, Logan, and Shelby, concerning Nicholas’s plan for securing the navigation of the Mississippi; of the attitude of Robertson, Blount, and Daniel Smith toward the French enterprise; and of the impression made at this early day by “a resident near the Cumberland River, Mr. Jackson.” Particularly interesting is the record of the number of Frenchmen who became prominent and useful citizens of the West--Lucas at Pittsburg, Lacassagne at Louisville, Tardiveau, Honoré, and Depauw at Danville and vicinity; apart from the settlers at Gallipolis, whose misfortunes our author deplores. It is hoped that this English version of the elder Michaux’s journals may prove a contribution of importance to those interested in early conditions in the Mississippi Valley.

Michaux’s published works are, _Histoire des Chênes de l’Amérique_-- which appeared in 1801, and is supposed to have been recast or corrected by other scientists--and _Flora Boreali-Americana_, written in Latin by Richard from the plants which Michaux had collected in America, and issued a year after the latter’s death.[5]

The few years that intervened between the journeys of the elder and younger Michaux show the rapidity with which the West was changing. Conditions of travel had meantime been improved, and the development of resources was proceeding with bounds. The opening of the Mississippi had caused an immense growth in both the extent and means of Western commerce; the son describes ship-building upon the waters along which the father had passed in Indian canoes. The increase in the number, size, and appearance of the towns, and the additional comforts in the homes of the people, were indicative of a great and growing prosperity.

The younger traveller describes the inhabitants with more particularity than his father. His observations upon the characteristics of the people, their occupations and recreations and their political bias, are those of an intelligent and sympathetic narrator, with a predisposition in favor of the Western settlers. His remarks in chapter xii on the restlessness of the pioneers, their eagerness to push onward to a newer country, their impatience with the growing trammels of civilization, show habits of close observation. His optimism with regard to the future of the country, in thinking that within twenty years the Ohio Valley would be “the most populous and commercial part of the United States, and where I should settle in preference to any other,” exhibits a large comprehension of the forces and elements of Western growth.

The American popularity of the younger Michaux’s journal, in its own time, proved his ability to interpret the ideas of our people, and the sympathetic interest of a cultured Frenchman in the democratizing processes of the New World.

_Thaddeus Mason Harris_

Thaddeus Mason Harris, author of the _Journal of a Tour into the Territory Northwest of the Alleghany Mountains_, was one of the coterie of liberal clergymen who occupied the New England pulpits in the early part of the nineteenth century. As a member of this group, Harris’s observations of the Western country are of peculiar interest. He had the training of the typical New Englander--“plain living and high thinking.” Born in Charlestown in 1768, his family were driven from their home at the battle of Bunker Hill, and three years later the father died of exposure contracted during his service in the Revolutionary army. As the eldest of the children, Thaddeus was sent to “board around” among the neighboring farmers, one of whom took sufficient interest in the promising lad to fit him for college. An accidental supply of money at a later period, accepted as a special interposition of Providence, made such an impression upon the young man’s mind that he determined to enter the ministry. He was graduated from Harvard in 1787, in the same class with John Quincy Adams. After a year’s teaching at Worcester, the position was tendered him of private secretary to the newly-chosen President Washington, but an attack of small-pox prevented its acceptance, and the place was filled by Tobias Lear.

In 1789 our author was “approbated to preach,” and the following year received his A.M. degree, delivering on the occasion the Phi Beta Kappa address. During the two succeeding years he served as the librarian of his alma mater, and was elected (1792) a resident member of the Massachusetts Historical Society. The year 1793 saw Harris installed as pastor of the first church of Dorchester--a relation which was continued through over forty years of faithful and acceptable service. A careful pastor, he exposed himself during the epidemic of yellow fever in 1802 to such an extent that he contracted the disease, and during his convalescence the Western journey was planned and undertaken as a means of recuperation. In this it was eminently successful, and upon his return to Dorchester Harris plunged anew into literary and philanthropic labors. Within the next few years he aided in founding the American Antiquarian Society, the Massachusetts Humane Society, the American Peace Society, the American Academy of Arts and Sciences, and the Archæological Society at Athens, and was chosen corresponding member of the New York Historical Society. His addresses and sermons on different occasions found their way into print, until nearly sixty were published. Harvard honored itself by conferring upon him the degree of doctor of divinity in 1813, and during his entire later life he acted as overseer in the college corporation. His eldest son, a well-known entomologist, served as Harvard librarian for twenty-five years (1831-56).

After a second severe illness (1833), Dr. Harris visited Georgia, and thereupon published a biography of Oglethorpe. In 1838 he resigned his pastorate and spent his remaining five years in congenial literary pursuits, serving for a time as the librarian of the Massachusetts Historical Society. He is described as a “little quaint old man, indescribably bent, but still wearing a hale aspect, who used to haunt the alcoves of the library at Harvard.” After March, 1842, the place of the old scholar and reader in the college library was vacant.

Dr. Harris made no contribution of permanent value to American literature, unless the present book may be so considered. Besides the works mentioned, he aided (1805) in putting forth an encyclopedia, and a Natural History of the Bible; the result of the last-named labor was pirated by an English firm, which issued it in several editions. The _Journal of a Tour_, which we here republish, sold well, and was soon out of print. In recent years, the volume has brought a good price at antiquarian sales. In addition to the journal proper, Harris added a bulky appendix, entitled a “Geographical and Historical Account of the State of Ohio,” from material collected during his visit at Marietta, annexing thereto: a “Letter to the Earl of Hillsborough on the navigation of the Ohio (1770);” the “Act of Congress forming the State;” the “Constitution of the State;” an “Account of the destruction of the Moravian Settlements on the Muskingum;” “Wayne’s Treaty;” and a number of papers connected with the formation of the Ohio Company of Associates, and the establishment of the Northwest Territory. This appendix we have omitted as not within the sphere of the present series, and as containing information which can readily be secured elsewhere.

As an observer, two points characterize Harris’s narrative--his enthusiasm for natural scenery, and the delight shown in its description; and the dryness of his statements with regard to the human life which he saw en route. Its chief value lies in the accuracy which he exhibits in data concerning the size of the towns, their prosperity and growth, their business interests, and stage of material development; in matters regarding the growth of ship-building and navigation, the number of manufactories, and the general material prosperity of the region, Harris gives useful information. But as a picture of Western life, or as a sympathetic relation of human affairs in this region, the value is small. This arose in part from the New Englander’s stout prejudices against conditions unfamiliar to him. His attitude toward the Western inhabitants is quite the contrary of that of the younger Michaux, and forms thereto an effective foil.

As with previous volumes of this series, the Editor has had the active co-operation of Louise Phelps Kellogg in the preparation of notes.

R. G. T. MADISON, WIS., February, 1904.

Footnotes:

[1] See documents in _Original Journals of Lewis and Clark_ (New York, 1904), appendix.

[2] See Turner, “Origin of Genet’s Projected Attack on Louisiana and the Floridas” in _American Historical Review_, July, 1897; also documents in American Historical Association _Report_, 1896 and 1897.

[3] See review in _Monthly Anthology_ (Boston, 1810), viii, p. 280.

[4] The notes in the journals of the elder Michaux signed C. S. S., are those of Sargent, found in the French edition and designed chiefly to elucidate botanical references.

[5] The references in Sargent’s notes marked “Michx.,” refer to this _Flora_.

Journal Of André Michaux, 1793-1796

SOURCE: Englished from the original French, appearing in American Philosophical Society _Proceedings_, 1889, pp. 91-101, 114-140.

Journal Of André Michaux

On the 15ᵗʰ of July 1793, I took leave of Citizen Genet, Minister of the Republic of France to the United States[1] and started from Philadelphia on the same date at ten o’clock at night to avoid the great heat, and to travel by Moonlight. The 16th, being in company with ... Humeau and ... Leblanc,[2] we journeyed 40 miles.

The 17th, passed by Lancaster and made 35 Miles.

The 18th, passed by Carlisle ... Miles and slept at Chipesbourg [Shippensburg].

The 19th we slept at Strasbourg ... Miles.

Sunday the 20th, we started from Strasbourg, a small town situate at the foot of the Mountains; one of our horses having fallen sick we traveled only 21 Miles; observed _Magnolia acuminata_, _Azalea octandra_, _Kalmia latifolia_, _Fagus castanea_, _Fagus pumila_, _Pinus 2-folia_, _3-folia_, _Strobus_: _Abies Canadensis_; _Quercus castaneaefolia etc._ _Juglans nigra_.

The 21st of July started from Wells’s tavern, crossed the Juniata river ... and noticed _Rhododendron maximum_, _Hydrangea frutescens_, _Trillium erectum_; slept at Bedford. 21 Miles.

The 22nd. Started from Bedford and breakfasted at a place 4 miles distant where the Pittsburg Road divides into two. We took the right hand road; the Rain compelled us to stop and sleep only twelve Miles from Bedford.[3]

The 23rd we made 24 Miles and passed the summit of the Alleganys.

The 24th we made 25 Miles.

The 25th we passed by Green’sburg and made 31 Miles.

The 26th Rain; we made only ... Miles.

The 27th, we made 19 Miles and arrived in Pittsburgh. Total 32[4] Miles from Philadelphia.

The 28th visited Mr. H. Brackenridge.[5]

The 29th herborised; recognized on the banks of the Monongahela, _Dracocephalum Virginianum_,[6] _Bignonia radicans_, _Crotalaria alba?_ These plants grow on the banks of the river which are submerged when the waters are high.

The 30th of the same, recognized a Plant of the Genus _Ziziphora_ ... _Cunila pulegioides_[7] _floribus tetandris_; _Teucrium Canadense_, _Eupatorium aromaticum_, _Sigesbeckia_ ...; _Verbenae_ several species.

The 1st of August, herborised and recognized _Cassia Marylandica_; _Monarda didyma_; _Sanicula Marylandica_; _Triosteum perfoliatum_; _Sicyos angulata_; _Acer rubrum_, _saccharum_; _Campanula_, ...; _Cercis Canadensis_; _Menispermum Canadense_; _Actaea spicata_; _Tilia Americana_; _Urtica divaricata_; _Arum triphyllum_; _Celtis occidentalis_; _Panax quinquefolium_; _Staphylea trifoliata_; _Azarum Canadense_; _Rhus typhina_, _glabra_, _vernix_; _copallinum_, _radicans_, _toxicodendron_; _Clinopodium vulgare_, _incanum_.

The 2nd of August recognized _Aristolochia sipho_ or _macrophylla_; _Panax quinquefolium_; _Lobelia siphilitica_; _Convallaria_ many species; _Veronica_ ... _Ozalis stricta_.

The 3rd and 4th of August herborised: _Cacalia_ 2 species, _Phryma leptostachia_; _Leontice thalictroides_; _Lobelia siphilitica_, _inflata_, _cardinalis_; _Eupatorium perfoliatum_, _maculatum_, _odoratum et celestinum_; _Actea spicata_; _Podophyllum peltatum_; _Azarum Canadense_; _Hydrophyllum Canadense_; _Trillium cernuum_; _Panax quinquefolium_; _Aristolochia Sipho_; _Menispermum_ ...; _Sambucus Canadensis fructu nigro_; _Sambucus_ ..., _fructu rubro foliis tomentosis_; _Tilia Americana_; _Laurus Sassafras_, _benzoin_; _Robinia pseudocacia_, _Juglans oblonga_, _Juglans hiccory_; _Plantanus occidentalis_; _Acer rubrum_, _saccharum_; _Ulmus_ ...; _Hamamelis_ ..., _Cynoglossum_ 3 species; _Vitis vulpina_; _Dioscorea fructu infero_; _Teucrium Canadense_; _Scrophularia Marylandica_; _Dracocephalum Virginianum_; _Dianthera_ ...; _Sophora foliis ternis stipulis lato-lanceolatis floribus coeruleis vexillo corollâ breviore_; _Mimulus ringens_; _Bignonia radicans_; _Cercis Canadensis_; _Fagus sylvatica Americana_; _Circaea Canadensis_; _Urtica inermis_; _Erigeron Canadense_; _Cornus florida_; _Rubus odorata_, _Rubus occidentalis_; _Penthorum sedoides_; _Cephalantus occidentalis_; _Polygonum aviculare_, _hydropiper_, _amphibium_, _scandens_; _Sanguinaria Canadensis_.

On the 6th of August I saw on the bank of the Monongahela river opposite Pittsburgh a Coal mine at the entrance of which there seems to be a thickness of 15 feet of that mineral without admixture; sometimes a ferruginous tint can be distinguished between the different layers. In several spots soft rocks are to be found which seem good for use as whet-stones for large tools; they seem to me to consist of a combination of sandy, clayey and ferruginous particles with particles of mica in very rare instances.

The soil in the neighborhood of Pittsburgh is generally clayey, the calcareous rocks or stones of a brown color, consisting of much muddy clay. The soil between the two rivers on which Pittsburgh is built, is alluvial; stones rounded and worn by the rolling of torrents have even been found in the earth, dug up while sinking wells at a depth of more than 30 feet.

The 9th of August, when I was ready to start, the conductor of the Boat on which I had embarked my baggage came to tell me that he was waiting for the Boats destined to convey the troops, especially as the Boat seemed too deeply laden for that Season when the Waters are low; there was an appearance of Rain.

The 10th the river seems to be falling.

The 11th, 12th and 13th we remained, awaiting the departure.

The 13th three Boats arrived from the Illinois belonging to Mr. Vigo.[8] They were manned by about 30 French Canadian or Illinois oarsmen.

A Frenchman who has resided in America for 14 years and whose business consists in shipping supplies of flour to New Orleans, told me that he would give me Letters for Illinois addressed to the Commandant of the Post of St Louis. He is at present settled in Pittsbourgh and his name is Audrain.[9] This Audrain is said to be in partnership with one Louisière or Delousière who was exiled from France for having been concerned in the plot to deliver Havre to the combined English and Spanish fleets. This Louisière is at present absent from Pittsburgh. There is another Frenchman residing in Pittsburgh, Mr Lucas de Pentareau, an excellent Democrat, now absent. He passes for an educated man with legal knowledge.[10]

Pittsburgh is situated at the confluence of the two rivers, Monongahela and Allegany. These two rivers unite and form the Ohio or Belle Rivière. There are a great many more houses on the Monongahela river than on the Allegany. The number of houses is about 250 and it increases considerably every year. The ditches are still to be seen that served as the entrenchment of the Fort built by the French and called Fort Duquesne. The English, since that time, had built another almost beside it at the angle formed by the junction of the two rivers. It was built of brick and the Americans are demolishing it to use the bricks in building the houses that are being erected every day at Fort Pitt.[11]

The Americans have a Fort of Palisades situated behind the town on the bank of the Allegany River; it serves as a Depot for the arrival of the troops that are being sent against the Savages and as a Magazine for the Munitions sent there from Philadelphia.[12]

Wednesday the 14th of August, started from Pittsbourgh and slept at a distance of two miles only on the point of a small island on which I found _Acer negundo_, _rubrum_, _saccharum_; _Evonimus capsulis glabris_.[13]

The 15th recognized at 20 Miles from Pittsburgh _Pavia lutea_, _Panax quinquefolium_; A Bryonia plant _monoica calyce_ 5-fido, _corolla 5 partita floribus masculis spicatis axillaribus floribus femineis quoque axillaribus germine instructo spinis innocuis_.[14] Our journey covered 28 Miles.

The 16th at 7 o’clock in the morning we crossed the boundary line between Pennsylvania and Virginia. The line is marked by cutting down the trees on a width of about ... feet on the right and left of the Ohio or Belle Rivière and this place is 45 miles from Pittsbourgh. In the evening of the same day arrived at Buffalo Creek. _79 Miles from Pittsburgh._

The 17th passed by Willing [Wheeling] 92 Miles from Pittsburgh;[15] this place is inhabited by about 12 families as is also Buffalo Creek [Wellsburg]. Owing to the contrary wind we traveled only 30 Miles.

Sunday August 18th 1793, saw several flocks of wild Turkeys; wind contrary.

The 19th we made _50 Miles_. There are no settlements between Willing and Marietta, a small Town situate at the mouth of the Muskingum river. We slept at the place called Fort Harmar, situate opposite Marietta on the right bank of the Muskingum river.[16] _Dianthera americana._

The 20th we spent the day there.

The 21st, we passed by Little Kanhaway,[17] Belpré, and Belleville 34 Miles.

The 22nd we saw no settlements. Recognized _Polymnia canadensis_; _Acer rubrum foliis inferne glaucis_; _Acer negundo_, _Acer saccharum_, _Acer foliis rugosis nervis sublanuginosis_; _Annona triloba_, _Pavia lutea_, _Platanus occidentalis_.

The 23rd passed Great Kanhaway,[18] 4 miles before arriving at Galliapolis on the opposite bank.

The 23rd we arrived at the settlement of Galliapolis situate on the left bank of the Belle rivière. The houses are all built of squared logs merely notched at the ends instead of being Mortised (Log-house).[19]

The 24th remained over, visited doctor Petit who inspired me with the greatest respect by his good sense, his knowledge and his virtue. It seemed to me that humanity is the only thing that keeps him attached to that unfortunate colony.[20] Out of the 600 persons who came there to settle, only about 150 remain.

Sunday the 25th started from Galliapolis; at a distance of 35 Miles recognized _Iresine celosioides_ on the banks of the belle rivière where they are submerged by the great inundations. Passed a small river called Gay [Guyandotte]. We saw no habitations; 40 Miles.

The 26th, saw no habitations; passed the river Scioto ... Miles.[21]

The 27th, saw a Settlement of several houses at the place called Three Islands, ten miles before arriving at Lime Stone;[22] these Settlements are considered the first belonging to Kentuckey. We reached Lime Stone toward evening.[23]

Limestone is considered the Landing place or Port of Kentuckey. Goods are landed there that are sent from Philadelphia for Danville, Lexington etc. A small town founded six years ago at a distance of 4 Miles on the Lexington road, is called Washington and is very flourishing being situate in very fertile land.

The 28th, visited Colonel Alexander D. Orr.[24]

The 29th I left the two Companions who had come with me from Philadelphia. They continued their journey to Louisville while I went on by way of the inland Settlements. Colonel D. Orr offered me his Company to go with him to Lexington whither he proposed to go in a few days.

The 30th and 31st herborised while waiting until horses could be procured for the journey to Lexington. _Guilandina dioica_; _Fraxinus_ (_quadrangularis_); _Gleditsia triacanthos_; _Serratula praealta_; _Eupatorium aromaticum_, _Crepis Sibirica_? etc.

Sunday 1st of September 1793. Dined at Colonel Lee’s.[25]

The 2nd dined with ... Fox and prepared my baggage for departure.

The 3rd the journey was put off until the Following day. The soil in the vicinity of Washington is clayey and blackish, very rich. The stones are of an opaque bluish calcareous Substance, full of petrifactions of seashells. The bones of those monster animals supposed to be Elephants are found in the neighborhood.[26] It is to be presumed that those bones belonged to marine Individuals, judging by the great abundance of debris of marine bodies collected in those places.

The 4th started from Washington; passed by a place where the soil is impregnated with saline substances and whither the Buffaloes used to go in great numbers to lick the particles of Salt continually exuding from the surface of the Soil. There are at this spot springs whose water is bitter, putrid, blackish and full of mephitic air which frees itself at the slightest movement of the soil by the bubbles appearing on the surface of the spring as one approaches. The people living in the neighborhood erect ovens with kettles and extract Salt by the evaporation of the water.[27] We traveled 33 Miles.

The 5th we made 27 miles and, at an early hour, reached Lexington,[28] the chief town amongst the Settlements of the State of Kentuckey. We passed a small Settlement, looked upon as a town and called Paris, the capital of Bourbon county.[29] It contains about 18 houses. There are farming Establishments along the road and travelers now go without danger from Lime Stone to Lexington, a distance of Sixty six miles from one place to the other. _66 Miles._

The 6th visited two persons residing in Lexington for whom I had Letters of introduction.

The 7th herborised....

Sunday 8th of September was obliged to remain being unable to hire a horse.

The 9th left Lexington, went through portions of forest lands with very scattered Plantations. Crossed the Kentuckey river the banks of which are very close to one another; when the waters are low there is a height of more than 100 feet from the bank of the river to the level of the lands bordering on it and through which it runs. I am told that in flood-time it rises to a height of 40 feet in one day. On arriving there one would think himself between two ranges of very steep Mountains but in fact it is merely a torrent or a river whose Bed has been deeply worn. The rocks on the banks are of a calcareous nature. Several shrubs and Plants, natives of Carolina, grow on the cliff with a southern exposure being secured and protected from cold by the favorable situation offered by the great depth of the bed of the river.

The 10th arrived in Danville[30] and visited several persons for whom I had Letters: Colonel Barbee etc, Capt. Peter Tardivau, a witty man[31] etc. etc.

The 11th, visited General Benjamin Logan whose house is situate 12 Miles from Danville. I confided to him the Commission entrusted to me; He told me he would be delighted to take part in the enterprise but that he had received a Letter a few days previously from J. Brown[32] which informed him that negotiations had been begun between the United States and the Spaniards respecting the navigation of the Mississipi and the Creek Indians; That a messenger had been sent to Madrid[33] and that any one of the United States that would venture to act in a hostile manner against the Spaniards before the return of the first of December next, would be disapproved by the federal Government; That he was going to start the following day for his Establishment of Boulskine [Bullskin] Creek and that, after I should have conferred with General Clark, he hoped the latter would, in consequence of what I should communicate to him, make arrangements for further conferences together[34] etc. etc.

The 12th returned to Danville.

The 13th Visited (his Excellency) the Governor of the State of Kentuckey, Isaac Shelby;[35] visited the hills called Knob Licks;[36] Saw several Plants especially in the salt lands enclosed in the interior of the territory of Kentuckey. _Andromeda arborea._

The 14th left Danville for Louisville, lodged with Cumberland _19 Miles from Danville_.

Sunday 15th of September 1793, 22 Miles from Danville found a sort of _Tragia_, a _monoecian_ Plant, fructification in the manner of the _Euphorbias_. Shortly before reaching Beardstown recognized the rocks and stones of calcareous substances possessing all the forms of the Madrepores. The tops of the Mountains (hills) one has to cross, 3 or 4 Miles before reaching Beardstown, consist entirely of these petrified madrepores. Recognized many Plants not found elsewhere: _Fagara_ of the State of New York; _Rhamnus_ (_Carolinian_) and _Rhamnus_ ... etc etc. The neighborhood would be very interesting for a Botanist to visit. Dined at Beardstown[37] and slept 6 miles further. _31 Miles._

The country between Beardstown and Louisville possesses no interest for a Botanist.

The 16th arrived at Louisville having traveled by the new road.[38] _29 Miles._ In all 79 Miles from Danville.

The 17th of September visited General Clarke. I handed him the Letters from the Minister and informed him of the object of my Mission. He told me that he was very eager for the Undertaking but that, although he had written so long ago, he had received no answer and thought it had been abandoned.[39] I told him that his Letter had fallen into other hands and that the Minister had received it only indirectly after his arrival in Philadelphia. He informed me that a fresh circumstance seemed to oppose an obstacle to it.[40]

The 18th remained at Louisville and herborised.

The 19th returned to visit General Clarke....

The 20th started from Louisville, passed by General Clarke’s[41] and passed on to sleep near Salt river.

The 21st passed by Beardstown. _Evonimus ramulis quadrangulis capsulis muricatis._[42]

Sunday September 22nd arrived once more at Danville at 5 o’clock in the evening. Wrote to Minister Genet the same day by the Philadelphia Post.[43]

The 23rd I rested.

The 24th started for Lexington and slept at the Kentuckey river crossing.

The 25th found that my horse had wandered away. I slept at an inn where there was no Stable; my horse jumped over the fence and I spent the whole day looking for him.

While so engaged I saw on the sandy beaches: _Iresine celosioides_; _Mollugo verticillata_; On the rocks; _Heuchera Americana_; _Asplenium rhyzophorum_; _Pteris nova_; _Parietaria_ ...; _Hydrangea arborescens_. On the limestone mountains: _Serratula_ 2 unknown species; _Cuphea viscosa_; _Didynamia gymnosperma novum genus_; _Didynamia angiosperma novum genus_. On the bank of the Dickson river, _Dirca palustris_; _Sophora floribus coerulis_. In the shady forests etc: _Acer foliis argenteis an rubrum_? _Acer saccharum_; _Fraxinus foliolis subintegris_, _Fraxinus foliolis serratis ramis quadrangularis_; _Gleditsia triacanthos_; _Guilandina dioica_, _Robinia pseudo-acacia_; _Evonimus ramulis subrotundis_, _capsulis laevibus_.

The 26th of September 1793, Rained all day; slept at a mile from Kentuckey river at the house of ... Hogan[44] who was kind enough to lend me a horse for nothing to go in search of mine.

The 27th arrived at Lexington distant only 20 Miles from the crossing of Kentuckey river called Hickman junction.[45]

The 5th of October started from Lexington.

Sunday the 6th of the same arrived at Danville. The same day wrote to Citizen Minister Genet.

The 7th took lodgings at Puvit’s[46] and received my baggage.

The 10th Sent a Messenger to Louisville.[47]

The 13th Sunday returned to Lexington and came back on Sunday the 20th, to Danville. Not having received general Clark’s answer I was unable to take advantage of the Post to write to the Minister at Philadelphia.

The 21st received General Clark’s answer.[48]

* * * * *

The 10th of November 1793, Year 2 of the French Republic, left Danville for Philadelphia after visiting Colonel George Nicholas[49] near Danville. He laid stress upon the plan he had proposed to me the previous day regarding the Navigation of the Mississipi. Namely: That the Naval Forces of the Republic should seize the Mouth of the Mississipi, declare that the Country belonged to them by right of Conquest and invite the Americans of the Western Country to take advantage of the freedom of Navigation. Then, if the Spaniards situated higher up the river molested the Vessels carrying the provisions conveyed by the Americans, the latter would have the right to repel Constraint and force by force. Thus the Spanish Government would have no reason to complain of the United States having broken through inasmuch as the country would be reputed in the possession of the French Republic.

Slept at Crab orchard distant from Danville _22 Miles_.

The 11th of November 1793, started from Crab Orchard in company with 12 persons who had assembled at that place to pass through the Woods inhabited and frequented by the Savages. The tract between Crab orchard and Houlston settlement is 130 Miles wide and is called The Wilderness.[50] Slept at Longford Station. _10 Miles._

The 12th slept at Modnell Station _28 Miles_.

The 13th slept at Middleton station. _28 Miles._

The 14th crossed low, swampy places where the water was brown and stagnant. Six miles from Middleton Post and 18 miles before reaching the top of Cumberland Gap, saw a climbing fern covering an area of over six acres of ground near the road.[51] At this season when the Frost had produced ice from 3 to 4 lines thick, this plant was not at all injured by it. In this territory are two places, one called Flat lick and the other Stinking Creek.

Saw near the Carcass of a Stag the ... Raven (_Corvus corax_). Davissas station 2 miles to the[52] ... Cumberland Gap[53] _26 Miles_.

The 15th of November traveled through parts of very high Mountains in the midst of which we crossed Clinch river and slept at Houlston Station[54] in the house of one ... _27 Miles_.

The 16th followed the bank of the Houlston river and slept at the house of ... Amis Esquire, three Miles from Hawkin Court house.[55] _26 Miles._

Sunday the 17th the Rain compelled me to remain in a a small Cabin near the North fork of Houlston. _25 Miles_.

The 18th my horse was so tired owing to the rapidity of the journey and the bad roads across the Wilderness that I was obliged to stop after a Journey of only eleven Miles. _11 Miles._

The 19th started at daybreak. At the foot of the house where I lodged, the Kentuckey road divides,[56] the right one leads to Burke court house in North Carolina passing by the Mouth of Wataga river; the other leads to Abington court house, the first town of Virginia. As my horse was still tired, I made only _20 miles_.

The 20th I made _15 Miles_; arrived at Abington.[57]

The 21st I slept 22 Miles from Abington near Seven Miles Ford, the middle Branch of the Houlston.

The 22nd of November 1793 crossed Seven Miles ford. The Holston river consists of three principal Branches, namely: North fork, Seven Miles fork and South fork of Holston river.

In the space of six miles after crossing that little river, observed on the northern Hills bordering several small rivers the _Pinus abies canadensis_, _Thuya occidentalis_, _Rhododendron maximum_ and also _Magnolia acuminata_ in places where the soil is very rich: _Fagus chinquapin_; clayey soil, ferruginous Quartz rocks, Slates rare and lime Stones sometimes interveined with white Quartz; grey Squirrel (forgot to mention that, in passing Abington, saw a Tortoise 8 inches in diameter petrified in a black calcareous substance like the Rocks abounding in the territory). Our day’s journey was _23 miles_.

The 23rd of November slept in the house of a German. During the night my horses strayed away. Between Abington and With Court house[58] among the Mountains _Abies canadensis_ and _Thuya occidentalis_.

Sunday the 24th, passed by With Court house and at about 18 Miles in the steep Mountains observed _Pinus Strobus_, _Pinus foliis ternis_ (pitch pine), _Pinus foliis geminis_ ..., _Pinus abies canadensis_, _Rhododendron maximum_, _Kalmia latifolia_, _Gaultheria procumbens_, _Epigea repens_: In more arid places, _Fagus chinquapin_, _Fagus castanea americana_, _Fagus sylvatica americana_, _Andromeda arborea_, _Hypericum Kalmianum_. Among the damp rocks or those watered by the streams; Rocks of silex and also of agate slightly transparent.

From Seven Miles ford to With Court house 36 Miles.

The 25th crossed the ferry called Peper’s ferry[59] on the New River and afterward crossed from the West to the East side of the Alleganies; slept on a branch of James river called Catawba which flows eastward while the New River flows West of the Mountains.

The 26th continued on my way to Botetort Court house _30 miles_.

The 27th passed by Botetort Court house[60] and by the south Branch of the James River 12 miles from Botetort.

The 28th passed by Lexington[61] 40 miles distant from Botetort and by the north branch of James river to one Mile from Lexington. _Thuya occidentalis_, _Pinus Strobus_.

The 29th of November, remained in Mac Dowall’s house;[62] my horse’s leg was so swelled that he could not walk.

The 30th journeyed _27 miles_.

Sunday the first of December 1793 passed by Stanton, a small and rather flourishing town situate 120 Miles from Richemont and 75 Miles from Botetort.[63]

The 2nd passed by Rockyham or Rockytown[64] 20 miles distant from Stanton.

The 3rd passed by Woodstock,[65] another small town 37 Miles from Rockytown. Between Stanton and Woodstock the country is mountainous, the soil rather fertile, of a clayey nature, with calcareous rocks called Blue limestone; _Quercus rubra_, _alba_; _Fagus chinquapin_ and _Pinus foliis geminis_, _conis squamis rigidis et aculeatis_. Three miles before reaching that town, on the North of a Hill on the road, _Thuya occidentalis_, _Pinus foliis geminis_, _Juniperus virginiana_.

The 4th started from Woodstock, passed by Newtown.[66]

The 5th passed by Winchester,[67] 35 Miles from Woodstock, formerly called Miller’stown.

The 6th passed by Charlestown[68] 22 Miles from Winchester. Passed by Harspur ferry[69] across the Potomack river 8 miles from Charleston and entered Maryland.

The 7th passed by Fredericktown[70] 20 Miles from Harspur ferry (Potomack river) and 50 miles from Winchester.

Sunday the 8th passed by Woodberry and Littletown[71] 35 Miles from Fredericktown.

The 9th passed by Hanover, formerly MacAllistertown[72] 42 miles from Fredericktown and by Yorktown 18 Miles _from MacAllistertown now Hanovertown_.

The 10th passed by the Susquehanna river and entered Pennsylvania eleven miles from Yorktown.[73] Passed Lancaster 12 miles from Harris ferry on the Susquehanna river and 24 miles from York.[74]

The 11th of December 1793 traveled 30 Miles.

Thursday the 12th, arrived in Philadelphia 66 miles from Lancaster.

The 13th visited Citizen Genet, Minister Plenipotentiary of the French Republic.

The 14th Visited Mr. Jefferson, Mr. Rittenhouse[75] and ...

Sunday the 15th; Recapitulation of the journey, namely:

From Danville to Lincoln 12 miles From Lincoln to Crab Orchard 10 From Crab Orchard to Langford Station 10 From Langford to Modrell Station 28 Modrell to Middleton Station 28 Middleton to Cumberland Gap 24 Cumberland to Davisses Station 2 Davisses to Houlston 27 Houlston to Hawkin Court house 22 Hawkin to ... Amis 3 Amis to North Fork of Houlston 25 North fork to Carolina fork 31 From the fork to Abington formerly Washington Court House in Virginia 15 From Abington to Seven Mile ford } 60[76] From seven Mile ford to With Courthouse } From With Court house to Peper ferry 33 From Peper ferry to Botetout Court house 50 From Boteton to James River South fork 12 From James river South fork to Lexington 28 From Lexington to Stanton 35 From Stanton to Rockytown 20 From Rockyham to Woodstock 37 From Woodstock to Winchester 35 From Winchester to Charleston 22 From Charleston to Harpur ferry or Potomack 8 From Potomack to Fredericktown 20 From Fredericktown to Littletown 35 From Littletown to Hanover formerly MacAlister 7 From Hanover to Yorktown 18 From York to Susquehanna, Harris ferry 11 From Susquehanna to Lancaster 12 From Lancaster to Philadelphia 66 --- Total 746 Miles

From Danville to Lexington 33 Miles From Danville to Louisville[77] 84 “

The 30th Germinal in the 3rd year of the French Republic One and Indivisible (Sunday 19th of April 1795 old style) started to go and herborise in the high Mountains of the Carolinas and afterward to visit the Western territories. Plants seen before arriving at Monk’s corner: _Heuchera_ ..., _Vicia_ 2 species, _Smilax herbacea erecta_, _Melampodium?_ ... _Polygonum necessaria_, _Silene Virginica_, _Phlox lanceolata_ then in flower, _Valeriana_. Slept at 45 Mile House.

The 10th Floreal (20th of April,) around forty five Mile house, _Valeriana_; 3 Miles before reaching Neilson’s ferry _Gnaphalium dioicuin_, _Uvularia_? On the said 20th of April a new tree of the Santee river, elm-leaved, _fructus muricati capsula muricata_, _semen unicum subovatum_.[78]

These seeds were then almost ripe; _Celtis occidentalis_ flowers ...[79] and lower male flowers.

Slept 77 Miles from Charleston.

The 21st of April noticed on the Santee High-hills: Phlox with white flowers and Phlox with pink flowers, two different species, very small Phlox with lance shaped leaves; Saw in the neighborhood of Monk’s corner _Lupinus hirsutus_ in flower. Dined with Dʳ ...; slept at Statesboroug.

The 22nd passed by Cambden; five miles beyond, a new _Kalmia_; it was not yet in flower. Slept 10 Miles beyond Cambden.

The 23rd of April passed by Flat rock, by Hanging rock Creek and slept at Cane Creek, Lancaster county, in the house of a Mr May; my horse strayed away during the night and following his traces it was found that he had passed by Mr Lee’s.

The 24th I was obliged to look for him all day. Mr Lee also sent his son and his negro to search for him. He procured me a Horse to go on my quest and afterward invited me to lodge with him; he overwhelmed me with civilities.[80]

The 25th, the horse came to Mr Lee’s house of his accord. Plants on the creek: _Dodecatheon Meadia_, _Asarum Canadense_, _Claytonia Virginica_, _Erythronium dens-leonis_.

Sunday 26th of April, started from Cane Creek, passed by Land’sford on the Catawba river. But the real road is from Cane Creek, ask for Colonel Crawford’s house or Plantation on the Waxsaw, then pass MacClean Hands ferry on the Catawba; Thence straight to the Iron works called Hill’s Iron Works operated by Colonel Hill.[81]

Thus from Cane Creek to Waxsaw ... Miles; From Waxsaw to Iron Works, York county ...

The 27th passed Iron Works about 32 miles from Cane Creek.

The 28th passed by Armstrong[82] ford on the south branch of the Catawba, 12 miles from Iron Works.

The same day passed by the dwelling of Bennet Smith where there is a ... Magnolia, 12 Miles from Armstrong ford.

The 29th passed by Lincoln,[83] 12 Miles from Bennet Smith’s and 36 miles from Iron Works.

Thursday 30th of April passed by the dwelling of Old man Wilson[84] 9 miles from Lincoln and 6 Miles from Robertson’s. Reached Morganton[85] 30 Miles from Robertson.

The 1st of May spent the day at Morganton and herborised in the neighborhood.

The 2nd spent the day at Colonel Avery’s,[86] 4 miles from Morganton.

Sunday 3rd of May started for the Mountains; at a distance of 14 Miles from Burke is Wagely’s house.

The Lineville Mountains at whose foot this house is situated, abound in _Magnolia auriculata_. They were then in flower. From Wagely’s to Captain Young’s is 8 Miles.

The 4th of May left Young’s. The distance to Ainswort’s is 2 Miles but by going to the right one reaches the foot of a very high Mountain 3 Miles from Young’s. The summit is 5 Miles from Young’s.

From the summit of the Mountain at Young’s to Bright’s, called Bright’s Settlement, the distance is 3 Miles and from Bright’s to Davin Port’s 2 Miles, making 10 Miles in all from Young’s to Davin Port’s.[87]

The 5th of May herborised in the vicinity of the dwellings of Davin Port and Wiseman.

The 6th started for the Mountains, namely: Round [Roan] Mountain and Yellow Mountain; Toe River flows between these Mountains. All the _Convallaria_ were in flower as well as the _Podophyllum diphyllum_ and _umbellatum_.

Sunday 10th of May 1795 returned from the Mountains to the dwelling of Davin Port.

The 11th herborised on the Mountains facing the dwelling. The distance to the summit of the Bleue Ridges at the part called Rompback is about 3 Miles; on the first Mountains are to be seen in very great abundance the _Azalea foliis apice glandulosis_, _Azalea lutea_. There is no other Azalea on the Hills surrounding the dwellings of Davin Port and Wiseman but this yellow-flowered species. That on the River banks is generally that with carnation flowers and that with white flowers.[88]

The 12th ascended the summit of the Blueridges, _Rhododendron minus_ in flower, _Cypripedium Luteum_.

The 13th of May started to continue my journey. At Noon arrived at the foot of Yellow Mountain 10 Miles. In the evening came to sleep at the house of John Miller 12 Miles from the Mountain. Thus there are 22 Miles from Davin Port’s to Miller’s; at a distance of half a mile one commences to cross Doe River.

The 14th followed and crossed Doe river 27 times. It is dangerous when the waters are high. Slept at the house of Colonel Tipton,[89] 20 Miles from Miller’s.

The 15th passed by Johnsboroug[90] 10 Miles from Colonel Tipton’s dwelling and 84 Miles from Burke Court house. Slept at the house of Anthony Moore near Noleychukey river. During the night my horse strayed away.

The 16th, Sunday 17th, & 18th were spent in searching for my horse.

The 19th bought another horse for the price of fifty Dollars from an inhabitant of Noley Chukey river named ... Earnest, a neighbor of one Andrew Fox. The _Magnolia tripetala_ abounds on the banks of Noley Chukey.

Wednesday 20th of May, passed by Green Court house 27 Miles from John’s Borough and the road to Kentuckey, taking the right hand and passing by ... ferry on the Holston river. Continuing straight on the road leads to Knoxville. By going to the left a little before Green the road leads to Frenchbroad.[91] The distance from John Borough to Green Court house is 27 Miles.

The 21st passed by Bull’s Gap 18 Miles from Green.[92]

The 22nd passed by Iron Works[93] 30 Miles from Bull’s gap. The distance to the river called Houlston river is only four miles. Two miles from Iron Works is a Rock of mineral, pieces whereof on being crushed and reduced to powder dye cotton red; this mineral is boiled etc.

The 23rd as my horse was injured I was obliged to remain a Mile from Iron Works on Mossy Creek at the house of one Newman. Near his house (½ mile) is to be found the mineral that I take to be Antimony.

Sunday 24th, arrived at Colonel King’s on the Houlston river at the place called Macby ferry[94] 15 Miles from Iron Works.

The 25th crossed the ferry and arrived at Knoxville 15 miles from Macby ferry, the residence of the Governor of the Western territories, 110 Miles from Johnsborough.[95] Plants and Trees of the Territory of Knoxville and of the neighboring country: _Quercus prinus saxosa_; _Quercus prinus humilis_; _Quercus rubra_; _Quercus proemorsa_; _Quercus tomentosa_; _Quercus pinnatifida_; _Quercus alba_ ...; _Ulmus viscosa_; _Ulmus fungosa_; _Fraxinus_ ...; _Diospiros Virginiana_; _Liquidambar styraciflua_; _Juglans nigra_, _alba_ or _oblonga_, hiccory pignut. _Platanus occidentalis_; _Nyssa aquatica_; _Fagus castanea americana_; _Fagus pumila_; _Fagus sylvatica americana_; _Magnolia acuminata_; _Betula alnus americanus_; _Cercis Canadensis_; _Cornus florida_; _Evonimus latifolius_, _Evonimus Americanus_; _Podophyllum peltatum_; _Jeffersonia_; _Sanguinaria Canadensis_; _Trillium sessile_.

Remained the whole week at Knoxville and herborised in the vicinity while awaiting a sufficiently numerous caravan to pass through the Wilderness.

Sunday 31st of May received notice that twenty five armed travelers were on the point of arriving at Knoxville.

Monday 1st of June 1795, old style, the journey was again put off.

Thursday 4th of June started from Knoxville and slept 15 miles away at captain Camel’s at the place called Camel [Campbell] station.

Friday the 5th, slept at the place called West Point on Clinch river, a Post of soldiers guarding the frontiers of the territory,[96] 25 Miles from Camel station.

The 6th started and crossed the river in a Scow or ferry connected with West point station. Our journey covered 10 miles. The Travelers consisted of 15 armed men and more than thirty women and children.

Sunday 7th of June crossed the Mountains called Cumberland Mountains, 22 Miles.

The 8th continued our march in the Mountains 23 Miles. _Magnolia petalis basi purpureis._[97]

Tuesday 9th of June 1795, alternately ascended and descended the Mountains. In the bottom lands _Magnolia tripetala_ in abundance, 25 Miles.

The 10th arrived at the Cumberland River, 10 Miles, and slept beyond the 20th Mile.

The 11th arrived at Blodsoe Lick or Blodsoe station,[98] 20 Miles. 120 Miles in all of the Wilderness.

Slept at this place where there is food for men and Horses.

Friday the 12th, came one mile to Colonel Winchester’s;[99] slept there two nights to rest myself and my Horse.

Sunday the 14th herborised.

The 15th came to the house of a resident near Cumberland River, Mr. Jackson;[100] soil fertile. Oaks, _Quercus prinus_: _Quercus rubra_, _Quercus glandibus magnis_, _capsulâ includentibus_, called Overcup White Oak.[101] _Quercus tomentosa_,[102] _Quercus praemorsa_. 25 Miles.

The 16th arrived at Nashville 12 Miles.

Total 197 Miles from Knoxville to Nashville, the capital of the Cumberland Settlements on the Cumberland river.[103]

The 17th visited various persons, Daniel Smith,[104] Colonel Robertson,[105] Captain Gordon, [G. M.] Deaderick, Dr White, Thomas Craighead[106] etc. etc.

Herborised on the following days.

Trees of Nashville Territory:

_Quercus prinus_; _Quercus phellos latifolia_; _Quercus pinnatifida_; _Quercus foliis lyratis subtus tomentosis calycibus maximis margine laciniatis glandibus includentibus Vulgo_; Over cup White Oak;[107] _Quercus rubra_; _Quercus tomentosa_; _Acer saccharum_, _Acer negundo_, _Acer rubrum_; _Juglans nigra_, _oblonga_, _hiccory_: _Platanus occidentalis_; _Liquidamber styraciflua_; _Ulmus viscosa fungosa_;[108] _Carpinus Ostrya americana_; _Rhamnus Alaternus latifolius_, _Rhamnus frangula?_[109] _frutex prunifer_; _Juniperus Virginiana_. Banks of Cumberland river _Philadelphus inodorus_; _Aristolochia siphotomentosa_;[110] _Mimosa erecta-herbacea_; _Mirabilis_[111] _clandestina seu umbellata seu parviflora_; _Hypericum Kalmianum grandiflorum_.[112]

Soil of Nashville clayey, rocky, limestone Rocks somewhat similar to the Kentuckey formation, position of the Rocks horizontal, occasionally Quartz Veins in the Rocks, abounding in marine petrifactions.

Sunday 21st of June 1795, killed and skinned some birds.

Birds: Robin, Cardinal, _Tetrao_ (grouse), _Lanius Tyrannus_ rare, Quantities of the Genus _Muscicopa_; few species of the Genus _Picus_: Wild Turkeys. Quadrupeds: Musk-rat, Beaver, Elk, dwarf Deer, Bears, Buffalos, Wolves, small grey Squirrels.

Minerals: soil clayey. Limestone Rocks always in a horizontal position; impure Slate, flocks of schistus; Petrifactions of land and fresh-water shells.

Monday 22nd of June 1795 (Old style) 4th of Messidor in the 3rd year of the Republic, started from Nashville for Kentuckey; passed by Mansko’s Lick,[113] 12 miles from Nashville; slept at Major Sharp’s[114] 29 Miles from Nashville.

The 23rd crossed the Barren oaks and slept at [Drake’s] Creek. There is no house in the interval. The Soil produces only black oaks. 30 Miles.

The 24th passed by Big Barren River. The man who keeps the Ferry is well supplied with provisions.[115] The distance is 3 Miles from [Drake] Creek.

Crossed the Barrens and slept on the ground without a fire and without allowing my horse to graze at large through fear of the Savages.

The 25th passed by Little Barren River, the first house 43 Miles from Big Barren River. Afterward passed by Green River 6 Miles from Little Barren River.

The 26th passed by Roland [Rolling] fork, head of Salt River, 30 Miles from Green River.

The 27th arrived at Danville 35 Miles from Roland old fork.

From Nashville to Danville, the oldest town in Kentuckey 117 Miles.

Sunday 28th of June rested.

The 29th skinned three striped Squirrels (_Sciurus striatus_)

The 30th herborised.

Wednesday 1st of July 1795 visited several residents.

The 2nd continued rain.

The 3rd put my old Collections in order.

The 4th

Sunday 5th of July[116]

Sunday 12th of July dined with the Governor of the State of Kentuckey, Isaac Shelby.

Thursday 16th of July 1795 left Danville.

The 17th passed by Beardston forty three Miles from Danville.

The 18th arrived at Stanford’s near Man’s Lick.[117]

Sunday 19th remained to await my Baggage.

The 20th remained, and being obliged to stay, watched the Process of manufacturing Salt. The Wells for getting the salt water are dug to a depth of about ... feet. Muddy clay is met with to a depth of ... feet. Then ... feet of slatey rock. When the rock is pierced the salt water is found at a depth of more than ... feet. This slate burns in the fire as if impregnated with bitumen or entirely made up of that substance. Bones of those great marine bodies that are rather frequently met with on the banks of the Ohio have been found in the impure clay that was dug up to reach the slatey rock.

The 21st of July, arrived at Louisville, 40 Miles from Beardstown.

The 22nd and 23rd remained and herborised.

The 24th returned to Manslick, 16 Miles from Louisville.

The 25th returned to Louisville.

Sunday 26th of July herborised.

Plants in the neighborhood of Louisville: _Quercus cerroides_,[118] _Quercus rubra_; _Quercus alba_; _Quercus prinus_; _Liriodendron_; _Fagus castanea_, _Fagus sylvatica_; _Rhus foliis alatis dioique_; _Hibiscus_[119] _foliis hastatis calyce exteriore lacinis subulatis flore pallide roseo_.[120]

Saturday first of August made ready to leave for the Wabash and the Illinois.

Sunday the 2nd I was invited to dine with a Frenchman named La Cassagne,[121] a resident of Louisville for more than 15 Years.

Trees, shrubs and Plants of Louisville territory:

_Liriodendron tulipifera_; _Platanus occidentalis_; _Acer rubrum foliis inferne argenteis_; _Fagus sylvatica americana_; _Quercus rubra_; _Quercus alba_, _Quercus praemorsa_,[122] _Quercus prinus_, _Quercus cerroides_;[122] _Tilia americana_; _Juglans nigra_, _Juglans alba_, _Juglans hiccory_, (_Juglans pacane_ rare); _Gleditsia triacanthos_, _Guilandina dioica_.

Sunday 9th of August 1795, started from Louisville and slept at Clarksville,[123] two miles from Louisville on the opposite Bank of the Ohio.

The 10th we set out and arrived at Post Vincennes situate on the Wabash River on Thursday the 13th of August in the evening.[124] The distance is considered to be one hundred and twenty five Miles. On the day of our arrival we crossed a River about 20 miles before reaching Post Vincennes and although the Waters were then very low we were on the point of making a Raft for the Country is not inhabited along this Road. Of all the Journeys I have made in America in the past 10 years this is one of the most difficult owing to the quantity of Trees overturned by storms, to the thick brushwood through which one is obliged to pass; to the numbers of Flies by which one is devoured, etc.

The 14th, 15th and Sunday the 16th of August I was obliged to rest having arrived almost ill. My horse, while trying to jump over the trunk of a large fallen tree, fell and threw me a great distance and I suffered for several days from an injury to the lower part of the Chest on the left side because the trigger of my gun had struck there.

The 17th spent a portion of the day herborising on the banks of the Wabash River.

I continued herborising on the following days.

The 18th of August 1795

List of Plants observed on the Wabash:

No. 1--_Verbena_[125] _urticifolia caule erecto_, _paniculis divaricatis_, _bracteis flore brevioribus_, _floribus albis_.

No. 2--_Verbena_[126] ..., _caule erecto_, _paniculis fastigiatis erectis_, _bracteis et calycibus pilosis_, _floribus purpureo-ceruleis_.

No. 3--_Verbena_[127] _caule erecto_, _paniculis rectis foliis ovatis_, _tomentosis_, _duplicato-serratis_.

No. 4--_Verbena_ ...

No. 5--_Verbena[128] caule repente_, _foliis pinnatifidis_, _bracteis longissimis_.

_Silphium perfoliatum_, _Silphium connatum_, _Silphium laciniatum_, _Silphium grandifolium_, _Silphium trisoliatum_, _Silphium pinnatifidum_. _Andropogon muticum_; _Holcus?_ ...; _Poa_ ...; _Quercus cerroides Chêne frisé_, Overcup White Oak; _Quercus latifolia Chêne à latte_ Ram’s Oak; _Quercus ... Polygonum aviculare staminibus 5, Stylis 3_; _Polygonum aviculare majus staminibus 5, Stylis 3_. _Trifolium? pentandrum majus_; _Trifolium? pentandrum floribus purpureis_; _Sanicula_[129] _marylandica_ or [called] Racine à Becquel by the Illinois French and Sakintépouah by the Pians[130] Savages: A decoction of the root is a sovereign remedy for several diseases and for long-continued venereal diseases.

Sunday 23rd of August 1795 started from Post Vincennes situated on the Wabash River for the Illinois on the Mississipi. We journeyed six Miles and camped on the bank of a Little River [Embarras]. I had no other company than a Savage and his wife. I had hired the Savage for ten Dollars and promised him two Dollars more to induce him to carry all my baggage on his horse.

The 24th we made about 25 Miles; the Savage was ill and was obliged to stop more than three hours before sunset.

The 25th crossed several Prairies. Observed a new species of _Gerardia_.[131] Stalk commonly simple, oval leaves opposite one another, sessile, axillary flowers purpurine flowers.

The 26th the Provision of meat was consumed. The Savage stopped very early, finding a favorable spot for hunting. Moreover heavy Rain fell about three o’clock in the afternoon. An hour after camping the Savage came back laden with a Bear cub and with the two hams of another and much older one. We boiled the kettle twice and had enough to satisfy us. We roasted what remained.

The 27th the Savage killed two Stags. We halted very early to dry the Skins and to eat, for the Savage and his wife ate five meals a day. Moreover, they regaled themselves with the marrow of the bones which they ate raw; for, being unable to carry away the meat, they contented themselves with a piece of the animal’s loins.

The 28th of August 1795. Just as I was eager to see Game the 1st and 2nd day, so was I afraid to see it then owing to the waste of time. I was all the more anxious to proceed that it rained every day. I had already been obliged once to dry at a fire my baggage that had been wet through especially four books of Botany and Mineralogy I had with me, as I had been unwilling to expose them to the hazards of the River and had sent by way of the Mississipi two Trunks containing grey Paper, Powder, Lead, Alum, Boxes for collecting Insects, and all the articles required for making Collections of Plants, Animals, Insects and Minerals.

Sunday 30th of August arrived at the village of Kaskaskia[132] situated two mile from the Mississipi river and half a mile from the Kaskaskia River. It is inhabited by former Frenchmen under the American Government. The number of families is about forty five. It is agreeably situated but the number of inhabitants had decreased; nothing is to be seen but houses in ruins and abandoned because the French of the Illinois country, having always been brought up in and accustomed to the Fur trade with the savages, have become the laziest and most ignorant of all men. They live and the majority of them are clothed in the manner of the Savages. They wear no breeches but pass between their thighs a piece of cloth of about one third of an ell [in length] which is kept in place before and behind above the hips by a belt.

The 31st of August herborised.

Tuesday the first of September continued my herborising; also on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th of the same.

The 5th started for the village called Prairie du Rocher about 15 miles distant from Kaskaskia.[133] Passed by the village of St Philippe abandoned by the French and inhabited by three families of Americans.[134] This village is 9 Miles from Prairie du Rocher.

The 6th arrived at Kaskia [Cahokia][135] near the Mississipi ... Miles from Prairie du Rocher.

The 7th herborised and visited the neighborhood of Kaskia.

The 8th started to return to Kaskaskia and arrived there on the 9th.

The 10th continued herborising in the vicinity of Kaskaskia Village until the 13th of the same month.

Sunday the 13th of September crossed over with a savage guide to the south bank of the Kaskaskia River and continued to herborise there until the 18th of the same month.

The 18th and 19th Rained continually. Put my Collections in order and gave my horse a rest.

Sunday the 20th ...

Kaskaskia 45 families; Prairie du Rocher from 22 to 24 families. St. Philippe 3 American families. Fort de Chartres in ruins.[136] Kaskias 120 families. Americans at Corne de Cerf and at Bellefontaine[137] 35 families. St Louis flourishing[138] ... Prairies and hills.

Friday 2nd of October started to go by land to the place where the Ohio falls into the Mississipi. Owing to the difficulty experienced in crossing the Kaskaskia river we traveled only 12 Miles.

The 3rd and Sunday the 4th Rained and we crossed several prairies. Traveled about 27 Miles.

The 5th passed more Prairies intersected by strips of Forest. My guide killed an Elk called Cerf by the Canadians and French of Illinois. This animal is much larger (twice as large) than the dwarf Deer of the United States of which there is an abundance also in the Illinois country and which the French of these countries call Chevreuil. Its antlers are twice the size of those of the European Stags. Below each of its two eyes is a cavity which keeps closed but, by separating the two sides like eyelids, one can insert a finger to the depth of an inch. This cavity seems intended for the purpose of secreting some kind of humor. In fact on opening the cavity I found a substance of the form and consistency of a hare’s dropping but of the size of an acorn. This animal has canine teeth in the upper and lower jaw like those of horses, called fangs. The hunters say that this animal is always very fat. In fact this one was exceedingly so. Traveled about 32 Miles.

The 6th entered the forests and crossed several rivers. Traveled ... miles.

The 7th of October 1795 my guide killed a Buffalo which he considered to be about four years old. It seemed to weigh over nine hundred pounds. As it was not very fat my guide told me it was very common to see animals at that age weighing over twelve hundred pounds. It seemed larger than any Oxen in France and to surpass them in length and size.

Thursday the 8th saw another Buffalo thirty toises from our Road. We stopped to look at it. It walked very slowly but after a couple of minutes it stopped and, recognizing us, ran away with extraordinary speed. On the same day arrived at Fort Cheroquis otherwise called Fort Massac by the Americans.[139] 125 Miles.

The 9th of October 1795 herborised on the bank of the Mississipi: _Platanus Liquidamber Bonducs_, pekan Nut-trees, hiccory Nut-trees, called by the French Noyers durs; prickly Nuts (by the French Noyer amer) round Nuts. White Oak, _Quercus alba_, _Quercus rubra ramosissima_, _Quercus cerroides_ (by the French chêne frisé and by the Americans overcup White Oak), _Quercus prinus_, _Quercus integrifolia_[140] or _Quercus foliis junioribus omnibus et adultis semper integerrimis margine undulatis apice setaceis_. This species of oak abounds in the Illinois Country. It loses its leaves later than the other species of Oak. The French inhabitants call it Chêne à lattes. In Lower Carolina it is rather rare but keeps its leaves until the month of February or March. It seems to resemble the green Oak from which it differs in the shape of its acorns.

_Nyssa montana_ rather rare; _Gleditsia triacanthos_; _Robinia pseudoacacia_ (by the French fevier). The _Gleditsia triacanthos_ is called fevier épineux and the _Guilandina dioica_ Gros fevier and the seeds _Gourganes_. Note. On the Illinois river is a species or variety of _Guilandina dioica_ whose seeds are twice as big as those on the Banks of the Mississipi, Cumberland etc. _Liana Rajanioides_; _Anonymos_[141] _ligustroides_; _Vitis_[142] _monosperma_, this species is found along the Rivers and not in the interior of the forest; I saw it on the Kaskaskia River, on the Mississipi in the vicinity of fort Massac, on the Tenasse river, but it completely covers the banks of the Cumberland river from its mouth to a distance of 45 Miles.

Sunday 11th of October 1795 started with a Guide to ascend the Cumberland (Shavanon) river[143] in a Canoe. The rain compelled us to return.

Tuesday the 13th hired two men at a dollar a day each to ascend the Rivers of the Territory of the Cheroquis Savages. Started from fort Cheroquis or Fort Massac. The distance is six Miles to reach the mouth of the Tenassee River called by the French of Illinois Cheroquis River.[144] This river is very great and very wide. After ascending it about six miles we saw the tracks of a Bear on the bank. We stopped and entered the wood when we came upon a she Bear with cubs. The dog pursued the Mother, the cubs climbed a tree; I killed one and the guides killed the two others. We passed the night at that place.

The 14th very heavy Fog; we made only 5 Miles. Rain began to fall about noon.

The 16th paddled or rowed about ten Miles owing to a heavy Wind that began by a storm the previous evening and continued a part of the day. We camped opposite an Island or Chain of Rocks running nearly across the River. Nevertheless there is a channel on the south Bank that is fairly deep and sufficient for the passage of large boats.

Banks of the Cheroquis river (Tenassee): _Platanus_; _Juglans pacana, Hiccori_, pignut; _Liquidambar_; _Quercus rubra, prinus_; _Anonymos carpinoides_; _Anonymos ligustroides_;[145] _Betula austrolis_ grey-bark Birch,[146] which is found throughout America from Virginia to the Floridas; it differs from the _Betula papyrifera_; _Bignonia catalpa_; _Ulmus_; _Fraxinus_; _Vitis rubra_ or _monosperma_; _Gleditsia triacanthos_; _Diospiros_; _Smilax pseudochina_; _Bignonia crucigera_, _radicans_; _Rajania ... Dioecia 8-dria_; _Populus Caroliniana_, by the French Creoles Liard, and by the Americans Cotton tree. (Note: The Canada Poplar is called by the Canadians Tremble and by the English of Canada Quaking Aspen); _Acer rubrum, saccharinum, negundo_; _Anonymos ligustroides_; _Anonymos ulmoides_.[147]

(The 22nd of June 1795, according to the Gazette the Agents of the French Republic were recognized by President Washington

Philip Joseph Letombe, Consul General

Théodore Charles Mozard, Consul at Boston

Jean Anthony Bern Rosier, Consul at New York

Léon Delaunay, Pennsylvania

Louis Etienne Duhait, Maryland)[148]

The 15th October 1795 herborised.

The 16th descended the river and camped at the mouth of the Shavanon River called Cumberland river by the Americans eighteen Miles from fort Massac; killed a Canada Goose called by the French Canadians and Illinois French Outarde; killed two water-Hens an American kingfisher, an American pelican.

The 17th ascended the River about ten Miles; there were numbers of wild Turkeys on the banks; the Rowers and I killed five from the Canoe in passing, without landing.

The 18th continued on our way toward the upper part of the River.

The 19th descended the river.

Tuesday 20th of October 1795 returned to Fort Cheroquis or Fort Massac.

Trees and Plants in the neighborhood on the Banks of the Ohio.

_Platanus occidentalis_, by the Americans Sycamore and by the Illinois French cotonnier; _Populus_, by the Americans Cotton tree and by the Illinois French, Liard; _Celtis occidentalis_, by the Americans Hackberry tree and by the French Bois inconnu; _Liquidambar styraciflua_, by the French of Louisiana Copalm and by the Americans....

A Frenchman who traded among the Cheroquis Savages cured himself of the Itch by drinking for ten days a decoction of Chips of that tree which he called Copalm and which is the true _Liquidambar_; _Gleditsia triacanthos_, fevier (bean-plant) by the French and sweet locust by the Americans.

_Guilandina dioica._[149]

Sunday 25th of October 1795 _Spiraea trifoliata_ is a purgative used by the Savages and by the Illinois French. They call it Papiconah. In the neighborhood of Fort Cheroquis is found also the Geranium called herbe or rather Racine à Becquet which is given for chronic Diseases during several weeks; _Veronica virginica_ called by the French herbe à quatre feuilles (four-leaved grass) is often added.

Sunday first of November I was obliged to defer my departure, my Horse not having been found.

Friday the 6th my Horse was brought back to the Fort and I at once made ready to start for the Illinois. Started the same day and journeyed about 18 Miles.

The 7th the Rain began early in the morning and continued all day. Remained camped under a Rock where I had stopped the previous day with my Guide.

Sunday the 8th traveled through woods and Hills.

The 9th, the same.

The 10th arrived toward evening at the Prairies.

The 11th crossed the Prairies.

The 12th toward evening Re-entered the Woods once more and slept 7 Miles from Kaskaskia river.

The 13th arrived before breakfast at Kaskaskia about 130 Miles from Fort Massac.

The 13th of November I rested.

Sunday the 14th went out to hunt Canada Geese.

The 15th put my Collections of seeds in order.

The 16th same occupation.

The 17th I went Hunting.

Thursday 18th started for Prairie du Rocher.

The 19th Duck Hunting.

The 20th Goose Hunting.

Sunday 22nd paid visits.

The 23rd, 24th, 25th, 26th, 27th and 28th visited the Mountains of Rock bordering on the inhabited Country; Opossums, Raccoons, aquatic Birds etc.

Sunday 29th of November went to the Village of St Philippe called the Little Village.

The 30th visited Fort de Chartres.

Tuesday the 1st of December started for Kaskaskias and remained there.

The 2nd and 3rd of the same Made arrangements with Richard[150] to go by water to Cumberland.

The 4th returned to Prairie du Rocher.

The 5th prepared to start. Stuffed a white-headed wild Goose.

The 6th started once more for Kaskaskias.

The 7th confirmed once more in my opinion that the Second Bark of _Celtis occidentalis_ (called in the Illinois country Bois connu and toward New Orleans Bois inconnu) is an excellent remedy for curing jaundice; a handful of the roots or leaves of Smilax sarsaparilla is added to it; it is used for about eight days as a decoction.

The 8th of December 1795. The French Creoles call the species of Smilax found in the Illinois country, Squine. Only the thorny species grows there; it loses its leaves in the Autumn. The other species is herbaceous and climbing.

The 9th of December. The root of _Fagara_ as a decoction is a powerful remedy for curing disease of the Spleen. I have no doubt that the root of _Zanthoxilum clava-Herculi_ can be used for obstructions of the liver and Spleen.

The 10th: _Bignonia Catalpa_,[151] by the French Creoles Bois Shavanon; _Cercis canadensis_, Bois noir (black wood); _Liriodendron tulipifera_, Bois jaune (yellow wood); _Nyssa_, Olivier (olive). In making Wheels for vehicles the workmen use the Wood of _Padus Virginiana_ for the felloes, Elm for the Naves and white oak for the Spokes.

The 11th of December. Confirmed once more in my opinion that the root of _Veronica Virginiana_, vulgarly known as Herbe à quatre feuilles (four-leaved grass), used as a decoction for a month, is effective for the cure of venereal Diseases. Four or five of the roots are boiled. As this beverage is purgative the strength of this Ptisan must be increased or reduced by putting more or less according to the effect it has on one. It is sufficient for the first days that the bowels be relaxed and looser than usual; it is not unusual that the bowels be moved 3 or 4 times the first day.

I was informed at Illinois that Mackey a Scotchman and Even a Welshman, started at the end of July 1795 from St Louis to ascend the Missouri in a 4 oared Barge. They are aided by a Company whereof Charles Morgan, a creole from the Islands, is Manager.[152]

December the [12th] 1795.

Sunday the 13th made my preparations for the journey to Cumberland.

The 14th started for Cumberland; passed the Salt spring on Spanish territory. Observed _Tagetoides_. Learned the news of the peace between France and Spain. Slept six miles from the Salt spring. Observed on the banks of the Mississipi river _Equisetum_ which the French Creoles call Prêle. This Plant has here a circumference of nearly one inch and the stalk is 4 feet high.

The 15th passed Cape St Côme[153] at the foot of which the Mississipi makes an angle. Fish is caught here in abundance; the distance from Kaskaskia is eighteen Miles. Camped at Girardeau[154] 17 leagues from Kaskaskia.

The 16th continued for 6 hours with Hills and Rocks on the shores of the river, then low land. We camped at the place where the Belle Rivière [Ohio] falls into the Mississipi. On the opposite bank was camped Governor Don Gayoso, Governor of Natchez and upper Louisiana.[155] He sent a Boat to find out who we were and, learning that I was a passenger, he came to see me. He told me the news of the Peace between France and Spain. He offered me his services. The distance from Cape Girardeau to the Mouth of the Belle Rivière is eighteen leagues and in all 35 leagues from Illinois.

The 17th camped at a distance of about 7 leagues.

The 18th arrived near Fort Massac; seven leagues.

The 19th camped opposite the Mouth of the River Cheroquis or Tenasse.

Sunday the 20th passed by la Pacanière; this is an extensive Swamp on the North West side bordered by Pekan Nut-trees situate opposite or rather a little before entering the Cumberland River.

The same day Sunday 20th of December, entered the River Shavanon or Cumberland River the mouth of which is six long leagues from Fort Massac. Slept two leagues above the Mouth.

The 21st rowed about 8 leagues.

The 22nd rowed about 7 leagues, and slept at the great Eddy which is considered to be at a distance of forty five miles from the mouth.[156]

The 23rd we camped above the Isle aux Saules (Willow Island); rowed about 12 Miles or 4 leagues.

The 24th remained in camp. Rained all day. The River which was very easy to navigate until today, rose considerably and flooded the woods.

The 25th Rain continued to fall mixed with hail. Remained in Camp.

The 26th Remained in camp on account of the rising of the river whose current was too strong.

Sunday 27th of December 1795. rowed about 4 Miles only owing to the difficulty of rowing against the current of the river. Camped at the mouth of Little River.

The 28th crossed to the opposite bank. The current was as rapid as on the previous days and compelled us to camp. White frost.

The 29th it again Rained heavily. Remained in camp.

The 30th the River having overflowed and flooded all parts of the woods, we shifted camp and returned to the Little river; we ascended it until we came to a Hill high enough to relieve us from the fear of being flooded. Rain.

The 31st the weather became clear, the wind shifted to the North but the river continued to overflow its banks. Most of us went hunting wild Turkeys.

Friday first of January 1796. Wind from the north; Frost; the River rose one inch during the night.

In the vicinity of Little river, the Country has Hills scattered here and there. Soil clayey, very rich Mould, Rock consisting of Silex very slightly ferruginous. Blue Limestone.

Animals: Raccoons, dwarf Deer, Opossums, Buffaloes, Bears, grey Squirrels, Beaver, Otter, Musk-rats (these three species very rare).

Birds: Ravens, Owls of the large species, Cardinals, blue Jays; green Parroquets with yellow heads of the small species; Jays with red heads and throats.

Trees and Plants: _Liriodendron_; _Liquidambar_; yellow chestnut Oak, red Oak; _Annona_; horn-bean.

The 2nd of January, still remained in camp at the same spot. Weather cloudy. The River fell two inches only.

Sunday the 3rd Heavy wind. _Nyassa montana_ is called by the French Creoles Olivier Sauvage and by the Kentucky Americans Black Gum tree and by the Pennsylvania Americans Tupelo. Having nothing to do I made ink with gall nuts which I gathered on the Oaks in the vicinity of the spot where we were camped. It was made in less than five minutes and will serve me as a sample. In the neighborhood of Little river _Liriodendron_; _Liquidambar_; _Carpinus ostrya_; _Ulmus fungosa_; _Padus Virginiana minor_; _Laurus benzoin_ etc.

The 4th rowed about 4 or 5 Miles. Camped near rather high Hills consisting of shifting soil and rolled boulders. _Carpinus ostrya_; _Ulmus fungosa_; _Padus Virginiana minor_; _Philadelphus inodorus_; _Nyssa montana_, by the Americans Black gum; _Acer rubrum_; _Viscum parasite_; _Fagus Americana_ and _Orobanche Virginiana_ a parasite on the roots of the _Fagus Americana_; _Betula spuria_[157] called by the French Bouleau bâtard.

Tuesday 5th of January 1796 we rowed 7 Miles and camped opposite Diev Island 12 Miles from Little River.

The 6th the snow that fell during the night had cooled the weather. Steep limestone Rocks from the place where we were camped continuing for about a Mile on the east bank. Rowed about 8 Miles.

The 7th The River fell 19 inches during the night; as the frost had lowered the water this led us to hope that it would be easier to row against the current of this river which is naturally hemmed in between Hills. Rowed about 8 Miles.

The 8th the river fell 19 inches during the night. Passed by the Island of the boundary line between Cumberland and Kentuckey.

Plants on the Banks: _Platanus occidentalis_; _Betula australis_ or _spuria_; _Acer rubrum_; _Ulmus Americana_; _Fraxinus_; _Salix_ on the low Islands; _Anonymos ligustroides_. Rowed about 10 Miles.

The 9th the river fell nearly five feet during the night. We rowed about ten Miles.

Sunday 10th of January the River fell 4 feet during the night. Continual Rain and Snow. Passed Yellow Creek 16 Miles before reaching Clark’s ville. Passed Blowming grove (?) 13 Miles before reaching Clark’s ville. Rocks and Hills. Passed Dixon Island (?) 10 Miles before reaching Clark’s ville and at present the most remote Settlement of Cumberland territory. This Settlement consists of fifteen families who established themselves there three months ago. The chief place of this settlement is called Blount’s borough or Blount’s ville.

The 11th Rained all the previous night and a portion of the day. Passed by a chain of Hills and by a rock called Red painted rock on the right side of the River that is to say on the north bank of the river 2 Miles from Clark’s ville. Afterwards passed by the red river whose mouth is likewise on the north side and a quarter of a mile from Clark’s ville. Finally arrived at Clark’s ville.[158]

The 12th of January 1796, remained at Clark’s ville on account of the river rising.

The 13th Doctor Brown of Carolina who had come to found this new town Blount’s borough 10 Miles above Clark’s ville, was at the latter place.[159]

* * * * *

The 15th bought a horse at the price of one hundred Dollars.

The 16th departed; my horse ran away and I caught him 6 Miles from Clark’s ville at the Mill, 10 Miles.

Sunday the 17th dined 10 Miles from Nashville at Ebneston’s a quarter of a Mile from the Mill at the house of an old Pennsylvanian, an educated man well informed as regards foreign news.[160] Slept at Crokes 18 Miles from Ebneston. The Widow Martin lives near there and her house is better for travelers.

The 18th passed the Ridges, 15 Miles, without seeing any houses as far as White Creek. Old Stumps[161] lives 5 miles from White Creek.

The 19th started from Stumps’ and arrived at Nashville 5 Miles.

Total from Clark’s ville to Nashville 54 Miles by land and 70 Miles by water.

From St Louis to Kaskaskias 94 From Kaskaskias to the place where the Ohio falls into the Mississipi 95 Miles From there to fort Massac 45 Miles From there to the mouth of the Cumberland river 18 Miles From there to Clark’s ville on the red river 120 Miles From there to Nashville 60 Miles --------- Total 432 Miles 432 ---------

(Prices at Nashville): Dinner 2 shillings, Breakfast or supper 1 shilling 4 pence; ½ Quart of Whiskey 1 shilling. Hay and maize for Horse 2 shillings. The whole is six Shillings for one Dollar.

The 20th, 21st, and 22nd remained at Nashville.

The 23rd started from Nashville and journeyed 29¾ Miles; lodged with Major Sharp.

Sunday the 24th of January 1796 arrived at a Creek at a distance of 29 Miles near which one Chapman keeps lodgings at 3½ Miles; MacFaddin on Big Brown [Barren] keeps a ferry and lodgings. Total 32½ Miles.

The 25th Rain and Snow.

The 26th Started for Green river. The ground was covered with snow, the Roads rough and my horse fell lame. I was obliged to walk. I made 12 miles. I was unable to light a fire because the trees and wood were all frosted. I spent the night nearly frozen. About 2 o’clock the Moon rose and I resolved to return to MacFaddin’s where I arrived at 10 o’clock in the morning.

The 27th being overcome by cold and weariness, having traveled afoot, having eaten nothing since the morning of the previous day and not having slept during the night, the toes of my right foot became inflamed. I bathed my feet in cold water several times during the following night and no sores resulted therefrom but for several days the toes were numb and as if deprived of sensation.

The 28th I was compelled to go a distance of seven Miles to get my horse shod and I went to sleep at Mr. Maddison’s whose plantation was close by.

The 29th of January 1796 I started very early in the morning as I had 38 Miles to travel without coming to an inn or other habitation. I had been received with all the civility that can be expected from a man who has had a higher education than the other inhabitants of the country. This Mr Maddisson was a Virginian and a relative of the celebrated Madisson, Member of Congress. This gentleman was a true Republican in his principles and I spent a very interesting and very pleasant evening at his house.[162] His wife surpassed him in offering me every service that hospitality could suggest, which is seldom met with in America except in the case of persons better educated than the common people. That Lady suggested that I should wear heavy woollen socks over my shoes. She herself cut me out a pair and I was so surprised at the comfort I derived from them on the following days that I resolved never to travel in the season of snow and frost without taking the precaution to have a pair in my Porte Monteau. In the evening I came to a place three Miles from Green river and slept at the house of one Walter; I slept on the floor and my horse in the open air; but I was accustomed to this.

The 30th I crossed the Green river ferry in the morning. The cold was excessive and such as had not been felt for Many years. At 9 Miles I passed by Bacon Creek and the Cabin of a man but recently settled there and who was unprovided with everything, even Maize, needed for the sustenance of his household. At 22 Miles from Green River is the House of one Ragon and I hurried on to reach some better habitations before night. 26 Miles from Green River I perceived a House 200 toises[163] from the Road situate on the bank of a Creek. The inhabitant was a German who had been settled there only a year; he had a good stable, was well supplied with fodder of wheat, straw, and Maize leaves for my horse, and I ate Wheat bread for the first time since I had left Illinois. My supper consisted of bread and milk and I found myself very well treated. The name of my host was George Cloes; a German by Birth; his house is situated on the South fork of Nolin river.

Sunday the 31st passed by Huggins mill[164] on Nolin river (good lodgings); at a quarter of a Mile the road on the right hand leads to Beardston. At 2½ Miles the new cut road is straight. At 9 Miles passed by Rolling fork and 4 Miles further slept at Mr. Scoth’s on Beech fork.

Monday 1st of February 1796 passed by Dr Smith’s house 8 Miles from Beech fork and by Mackinsy 9 Miles from Beech fork. From Mac Kinsy to Long Lake 6 Miles. From Longlake to Sheperdston on Salt river 4 miles.[165] From Shepperdston to Standeford 9 Miles (good inn). From Standeford to Prince Old station 8 Miles. From Prince to Louisville 6 Miles.

The 2nd started from Prince’s and arrived at Louisville. 3½ Miles before arriving measured a _Liriodendron tulipifera_ on the left hand road whose size was twenty two feet in circumference, making more than seven feet in diameter. (Correspondent of Monsieur La Cassagne and St. James Bauvais at New Orleans Monsieur Serpe Trader at New Orleans.[166] Correspondent of Monsieur La Cassagne at Philadelphia Geguir and Holmes, Merchants, Philadelphia. Prices: Dinner 1 shilling 6 pence; Supper and Breakfast 1 shilling 6 pence; Lodging 9 shillings; ½ quart of Brandy 2 shillings 3 pence; Horse per day on hay and maize 3 shillings 9 pence.)

The 3rd, 4th and 5th remained at Louisville, being occupied in gathering together the Collections I had left with one La Cassagne.

The 6th I saw General Clarke and he informed me of the visit of Colonel Fulton who had come from France a few months previously.[167]

Sunday the 7th breakfasted with General Clarke’s Father whose house is 4 miles from Louisville. I wanted to obtain more ample information regarding Lieutenant-Colonel Foulton. I was told that he was to proceed to Philadelphia immediately after having gone to Georgia. That he was to embark for France and hoped to return to America at the end of this summer 1796. The same day, I started to return to Nashville. Slept at Standeford. 14 Miles from Louisville. (Supper 1 shilling, Bed 6 pence. Hay for the horse for the night 1 shilling. Maize 8 quarts 1 shilling 4 pence.)

Monday 8th of February 1796. (Breakfast 1 shilling) Passed by Sheperdston 9 Miles from Standeford. Maize for horse 3 quarts, 9 Pence, Virginia money, as in all parts of Kentuckey and Cumberland. Passed by Long lake, where Salt is made as well as at Sheperdston and slept at Mackinsy’s 7 Miles from Longlake.

In swampy places in the vicinity of Longlake: _Quercus alba_; _Quercus cerroides_; _Fraxinus_ ...; _Nyssa_; _Laurus benjoin_; _Sassafras_; _Mitchella repens_; _Fagus sylvatica americana_.

On the hills: _Pinus_[168] _foliis geminis conis oblongis minoribus squamis aculeis retrocurvis_. Saw planks of this tree at the house of an inhabitant; the wood seemed to me almost as heavy as that of the three leaved Pine of Carolina. Tar is also made of it in this part of Kentucky.

The 9th I started very early in the morning from Mackinsy’s. I had been very well received there that is to say he gave me a supper of boiled Pork; the same for breakfast. My horse fared very well on Maize fodder and in a Stable that was not muddy like all those in America when one lodges with Americans or with Irish.

I paid 3 shillings, being 1 shilling 6 pence for my horse and as much for myself. I had paid 5 shillings for my lodging the previous night and had not been so well satisfied. As the daughter of this house was the smartest of any I had ever seen in America I gave her a quarter of a Dollar and the old man offered me a stuffed Tongue but I thanked him, not being fond of salt meat.

It began to rain an hour after I started but I was fortunate enough to pass Beechford and Rollingford. 13 Miles from Mackinsy’s.

I was obliged to stop at the house of an inhabitant a Mile and a half from the crossing and the Rain compelled me to pass the night there.

In the neighborhood there is _Liriodendron_ with yellow wood and in some parts _Liriodendron_ with white wood. The inhabitants prefer the yellow variety.

Wednesday 10th of February 1796, I had supped the previous evening on Tea made from the shrub called Spice-wood. A handful of young twigs or branches is set to boil and after it has boiled at least a quarter of an hour sugar is added and it is drunk like real Tea. There was no Milk at the time and I was told that Milk makes it much more agreeable to the taste. This beverage restores strength and it had that effect for I was very tired when I arrived. This shrub is the _Laurus Benjoin Linn_. The Illinois French call it Poivrier and the hunters season their meat with some pieces of its wood.

In the vicinity grows a plant[169] of the _Orchis_ family whose leaf remains all winter. There are seldom two; the form is oval, furrowed, entire; the root bears two or three very viscous bulbs. It is used in the Country to mend broken crockery. It is called _Adam and Eve_. This plant is more common in the rich low lands of the territory West of the Allegany Mountains. I have also seen it in Lower Carolina but it is very rare there. It is not rare in Illinois.

Rain continued to fall all day and I was obliged to spend the night in a house near Nolin Creek because the river had overflowed its banks.

The 11th arrived at Huggins’s 12 Miles from Rollinford.

The 12th passed through a Country covered with grass and Oaks which no longer exist as forests, having been burned every year. These lands are called Barren lands although not really sterile. The grasses predominate: _Salix pumila_, _Quercus nigra_ and _Quercus alba_ called Mountain White Oak. _Gnaphalium dioicum_ also grows there in abundance. It is called by the Americans White Plantain.

The same day 12th of February 1796 passed by Bacon Creek, a new settlement 19 Miles from Huggins Mill and arrived at Green river 9 Miles from Bacon Creek. Slept 3 Miles further on at the house of one Walter.

The 13th of February traveled 37 Miles without seeing a House through the lands called Barren lands. The _Salix pumila_ that grows there in abundance is the same as that which is very common in the Illinois prairies as one leaves Vincennes Post to go to Kaskaskia. Slept beyond the Big Barren river.

Sunday the 14th traveled about 30 Miles. In all the Houses the children were suffering from Hooping Cough. This disease probably results from a simple Cold but the reprehensible system of living continually on salt and smoked meat fried in the pan produces those acrid humors that render expectoration more difficult.

The 15th traveled 27 Miles and arrived at Nashville. Supper, bed and breakfast 2 shillings.

The 16th started to go and visit Colonel Hays[170] a wealthy inhabitant to whom I had been recommended the previous year by Governor Blount, Governor of the Country known under the name of Western territories, South west of the Ohio. This Country, which is estimated to have 60 Thousand inhabitants, in consequence of the considerable annual immigration and of the rapid increase of population, has just been erected into a State governed by its own representatives under the new name of the _State of Tennesee_ from the name of a very large river that runs through the whole Houlston Country, the Cumberland Country, the Country of the Cheroquis Indians and other adjacent countries. This large river falls into the Ohio 9 Miles above fort Massac. It was known by the French, who were the first to discover the Countries in the interior of North America, under the name of Cheroquis River and it is so designated on the French Maps. I met at Colonel Hays’s several inhabitants of the neighborhood who came to confer upon current matters in connection with the election of new civil and military Officers.

The 17th and 18th of February 1796 remained at Colonel Hays’ on account of bad weather.

The 19th concluded the bargain for the purchase of a Horse to convey the baggage, Collections of Plants, Birds and other Things I had brought from Illinois and recently from Kentuckey. Returned the same day to sleep at Nashville.

The 20th spent the entire day in getting my collections together and in packing them. Saw some French voyageurs who spend all their lives in the Trade with the Savages and asked the Terms on which I could obtain a Guide to go up the Missouri river. One of them named ... told me he would willingly engage for a year for the sum of 500 dollars in furs that is to say 1000 dollars in money; another asked me 2000 dollars in money.

Sunday the 21st prepared for my journey.

The 22nd had my two horses shod.

The 23rd started and after making two Miles was obliged to return on account of....

The 25th started to return to Carolina and slept 10 Miles away at the house of Colonel Mansko, a declared enemy of the French because, he said, they have killed their King. Although I had not dined I would not accept his supper believing that a Republican should not be under obligations to a fanatical partisan of Royalty. I was greatly mortified that the night and the rain should compel me to remain in his House. But I slept on my Deer skin and paid for the Maize he supplied me with to cross the Wilderness.

The 26th

Sunday 28th of February 1796 stopped ten miles from the river on account of the Rain and because the Creeks had overflowed their banks.

The 29th in the evening crossed the Creeks and slept in the Wood near the road at a place where Reeds or Canes were growing in abundance. This species of grass which grows abundantly in many places which have not been settled, is destroyed when completely eaten by Cattle; Swine also destroy it by rooting in the earth and breaking the roots. The stalk is sometimes as thick as a goose quill, but in the rich lands bordering on the rivers and between the mountains, some stalks are as much as 2 and even three inches in diameter; the height is sometimes from 25 to 30 feet. This grass is ramose but it seldom bears fruit in the territory of Kentuckey, in that of Tenesee or in that of the Carolinas. This grass begins in the southern and maritime portion of Virginia. Further South as in the Carolinas, in the Floridas and in Lower Louisiana, this grass is found in abundance.[171]

Snow fell throughout the night and on the following morning my two Horses that had been tied had their legs swelled in consequence of the cold and of the continually muddy roads over which I had traveled the previous day.

The 1st of March 1796 arrived at Fort Blount situated on the Cumberland River.[172] Snow continued to fall during a part of the day.

The 2nd remained over in order to pull young Shoots of a new Sophora[173] I had remarked in the vicinity of Fleen’s [Flinns] creek about 12 Miles from the Fort. Snow covered the ground and I was unable to get any young Shoots but Captain Williams, the young [officer] stationed in the Fort cut down some trees and I found some good seeds.

I also pulled up some roots of those trees to replant them in my garden in Carolina.

The same day I had occasion to write to Governor Blount.

The 3rd of March continued my journey; crossed Fleen’s Creek several times. Saw again the small bulbous umbelliferous plant I had remarked some days previously. Toward evening the road was less muddy.

The 4th arrived at the Mountains called Cumberland mountains.

The 5th passed several Creeks and Rivers on which is an abundance of a climbing Fern of the genus....[174]

The land through which these rivers flow is less fertile than the territory of Nashville or Cumberland settlement and two-leaved Pines are found there in abundance.

Sunday 6th of March 1796 arrived at West Point on the Clinch River.

The 7th slept at a distance of 15 Miles near the junction of the Houlston river with that called Tenesee.

The 8th arrived at Knoxville.

The 9th Dined with Governor William Blount.

The 10th took my lodgings in the house of Captain Louné near the Cumberland river.[175]

The 11th herborised on the opposite bank bordered by steep rocks covered with _Saxifrage_, _bulbous umbellifera_ etc.

The 12th continued to herborise.

Sunday the 13th, Visited Captain Richard, Commandant of the garrison.

The 14th herborised; saw in bloom, _Anemone hepatica_; _Claytonia Virginica_; _Sanguinaria_.

Saw a new genus of Plant designated by Linnaeus _Podophyllum diphyllum_ and discovered some years ago in Virginia while passing by Fort Chissel. This Plant is less rare in the fertile lands of Kentuckey and Cumberland. It is found in the neighborhood of Knoxville. Dr Barton[176] called it _Jeffersonia_ in a description he gave of this Plant after seeing the flower of the Shoots I had brought back to Philadelphia in the hands of the Botanist Bartram.[177] The time when the plant flowers in the neighborhood of Knoxville is about the 10th of March.

The 15th received the Letter from Governor Blount in answer to that I had written him respecting the discovery of a new _Sophora_ in the neighborhood of fort Blount. Started the same day and slept at a distance of 7 Miles. Paid 2 shillings 3 pence for Supper and for Maize and fodder for the Horses. Bundle of fodder 2 pence.

The 16th of March 1796 slept a mile from Iron Works at the house of Mr Rice, Lawyer, 30 Miles from Knoxville. Observed in bloom: _Ulmus viscosa_, _Acer rubrum_ ♂ flower on one individual and ♀ flower on another tree.

The 17th slept near Bull’s gap 30 Miles from Iron Works.

The 18th passed by Lick creek and by Green court house 18 Miles from Bull’s gap.

The 19th passed by Johnsborough 25 Miles from Green [ville]. Several merchants are established at Johnsborough who obtain their goods from Philadelphia by land.

Sunday the 20th started from Johnsborough. Saw in passing Mr Overton of Kentuckey,[178] Major Carter of Wataga[179] at whose house I had lodged several years previously with my son, and Colonel Avery.

Sunday 20th of March 1796 saw in bloom _Corylus americana_, ♀ flower having the Styles or Stigmas of a purpurine color. _Ulmus viscosa geminis aureis floribus 4-5-6-andris_, _stigmatibus purpureis_. _Acer rubrum_ ♂ flower on one individual and ♀ flower on another. Slept at Colonel Tipton’s 10 Miles from Johnsborough.

The 21st remarked that the Mountains were covered in several places with _Sanguinaria_, _Claytonia_ and _Erythronium_ with spotted leaves. These Plants were in bloom. _Magnolia acuminata et auriculata_; _Rhododendron_; _Kalmia_; _Pinus abies canadensis_, _Pinus strobus_; _Azalea_ etc. etc. grow in abundance at the foot of those Mountains. Arrived at Lime Stone cove and slept at Charles Collier’s 18 Miles from Colonel Tipton’s.

The 22nd crossed Iron Mountain and arrived at night at David Becker’s, 23 Miles without seeing a house.

The 23rd started from Becker’s on Cane Creek to Rider’s 6 Miles; from Rider’s to Widow Nigh’s 7 Miles; from Nigh’s to Samuel Ramsey’s 2 Miles; from Ramsey’s to David Cox’s on Paper Creek 4 Miles and from Cox’s to Young’s 1 Mile; from Sam Ramsey’s to Davinport’s 8 Miles.[180] Total 23 Miles. Slept at Davinport’s. Remarked the _Salix capreoides_ in flower on the banks of the streams.

The 24th visited the high Mountains opposite Davinport’s house; pulled up several hundred Shoots: _Azalea lutea fulva_; _Anonymos azaleoides_. _Rhododendron minus_ etc.

The 25th of March 1796. Saw in flower the _Corylus cornuta_,[181] _amentis_ [male] _geminis quandoque solitariis squamis ciliatis_; _antheris apice ciliates_, _stylis coccineis_.

This species flowers about 15 days later than the species of _Corylus americana_ found in all the Climates of North America even in lower Carolina in the neighborhood of Charleston. The _Corylus cornuta_ is found only on the highest mountains and in Canada. _Corylus americana amentis_ [male] _solitariis squamis externe tomentosis margine nudâ_; _floris_ [female] _stylis coccineis_.

The 26th herborised and pulled Shoots of shrubs and fresh Shoots to transport them to the garden of the Republic in Carolina.

Sunday 27th of March....

The 28th prepared and packed my Collection of fresh Mountain Plants.

The 29th started from Davinport’s and slept at the house of ... Young. Violet with dentate reniform leaves, villous petiole and yellow flower in full bloom on the banks of streams and very cool places.

The 30th continued my journey and by mistake took a road to the right leading to Wilkes [County]. Another _Viole lutea scopus foliosus foliis hastatis_ in flower in cool places and also less damp places. This one is a little more tardy than the previous one.[182]

The 31st arrived at Colonel Avery’s and slept at Morganton or Burke Court house.

Friday 1st of April 1796, started from Morganton. Slept at Robertson’s, formerly Henry Waggner’s, 30 Miles from Morganton.

The 2nd of April _Epigea repens_ in full bloom as on previous days; on several individuals all the female flowers were without rudiments of Stamens while on other individuals all the flowers were hermaphrodites. Arrived at noon at the house of Christian Reinhart near Lincoln. Remained all day to pull shoots of the _Spiraea tomentosa_ that grow in swampy spots.

Sunday 3rd of April arrived at Bennet Smith’s 12 Miles from Lincoln; remained all day to pull shoots of a new Magnolia[183] with very large leaves, auriculate, oblong, glaucous, silky, especially the young leaves; the buds very silky; Flowers white Petals with a base of a purple color. Stamens yellow etc. Along the Creek on the bank of which this Magnolia grows I also saw the _Kalmia latifolia_, _Viola lutea_, _foliis hastatis_; _Ulmus viscosa_ then in process of fructification; _Halesia_; _Stewartia pentagyna_.

The 4th started and crossed Tuck-a-segee ford on the Catawba[184] river 10 Miles from Bennet Smith’s. Took the road to the left instead of passing by Charlotte and slept _11 Miles_ from Catawba river.[185]

The 5th of April 1796 at a distance of 12 Miles took once more the road leading from Cambden to Charlotte.[186]

Took Shoots of _Calamus aromaticus_ that grows in damp places in the neighborhood of Charlotte and of Lincoln. _Rhus pumila._ Slept near Waxsaw Creek in South Carolina about 35 Miles from Tuck-a-Segee ford.

The 6th at the house of Colonel Crawford near Waxsaw Creek: anonymous Plant with leaves _quaternate_, _perfoliate_, _glabrous_, _entire_. This same Plant grows in the Settlements of Cumberland and in Kentuckey. _Frasera foetida._[187]

Passed by Hanging Rock; the distance from Waxsaw to Hanging Rock is 22 Miles. To go to Morganton or Burke Court house one should not pass by Charlotte, but take the Road to the left 3½ Miles from Hanging Rock.

About 20 Toises after leaving the fork of the two roads (one of which leads to Charlotte) one sees the _Anonymous_[188] shrub with a red root which has the appearance of the _Calycanthus_. This shrub is the one I saw in the vicinity of Morganton. Slept near Hanging Rock.

Thursday 7th of April 1796 arrived at Cambden; five or six Miles before arriving there pulled Shoots of a new _Kalmia_ seen some years previously. The distance from Hanging Rock to Cambden is 26 Miles.

Friday 8th of April started from Cambden, passed by State’s borough 22 Miles from Cambden and slept at Manchester 30 Miles from Cambden.

The 9th my Horses strayed away during the night, having broken the Fence within which they were placed.

In the streams: _Callitriche americana_; _fructificatio simplex_, _axillaris sessilis_, _Calyx 2-phyllus_, _stamen unicum_; _filamentum longum_, _latere geminis germen duplex? styli duo longitudine staminis_, _stigmata acuta_.

_Silene ... calyx 5-fidus cylindricus_, _corolla Petala 5_ (or _5-partita usque ad basim_) _unguibus angustis_, _laciniis planis apice obtusis_; _Stamina 10 basi corolla inserta_; _Germen oblongum_. _Styli tres_; _stigmata acuta_; _Capsula unilocularis_, _semina plura numerosa_, _flores rosei_.[189]

Started in the afternoon and slept at 15 Miles having crossed 10 Miles of sand called Santee High Hills in the space of which observed _Phlox_; _Silene_ ...; _Dianthus_ ... in flower; _Lupinus perennis et pilosus_ in flower.

Sunday 10th of April 1796 arrived at the Santee River at the place called Manigault ferry; before arriving there observed _Verbena_ (_aubletia?_) and on the banks of the Santee, _arbor Anonymous_ whose fruit (_muricatis_) covered with soft points, was almost ripe.[190] Manigault ferry is 28 Miles from Manchester.

Two miles further on one takes the road to the right called Gaillard road which is shorter than the ordinary road but muddy in winter. Slept at the house of the Widow Stuard 18 Miles from Manigault ferry. Tavern dirty and without a supply of fodder for Horses.

The 11th started very early; at a distance of 5 Miles remarked _Lupinus perennis_ and _Lupinus pilosus_ in flower. Distance from Charleston 40 to 43 Miles. Arrived at the garden of the Republic 37 Miles from the Widow Stuard’s that is to say 47 Miles from Charleston.

Recapitulation of the journey from Illinois to Charleston.

From St Louis of the Illinois to Kaskias 4 Miles To the village of St Philippe 45 To the Prairie du Rocher 9 To Kaskaskias 45 To the junction of the Mississipi and Belle Rivière 95 To Fort Massac 45 To the Junction of the Cumberland and Belle Rivière 18 To Clark’s ville on the red river 120 To Nashville 60 To Bloodshed’s lick[191] 30 To Fort Blount on the Cumberland river 40 To West Point on the Clinch river 90 To Knoxville on the Houlston river 40 From Knoxville to Iron Works 30 To Bull’s gap 30 To Green’s ville 25 To John’s borough 25 To Colonel Tipton’s 10 To Limestone cove 18 To David Becker’s beyond the Mountain called Iron mountain 23 From Backer’s to Young’s 20 To Morganton or Burke 22 To Robertson’s 30 To Lincoln 16 To Tuck a Segee 22 To Wax Saw Creek 35 To Hanging Rock 22 To Cambden 26 To Manchester 30 To Manigault ferry 28 To Charleston 70 ---- Total 1123 Miles 374⅓ leagues

Footnotes:

[1] Edmond Charles Genet (Genest) was born at Versailles about 1765. His father was a diplomat who was interested in English literature, and who welcomed the American coterie in Paris to his home. Henrietta Genet, later Madame Campan, was first lady of honor to Queen Marie Antoinette; her brother was chosen at the early age of twenty-four, secretary--later, _chargé d’affaires_--to the French embassy at St. Petersburg. His dispatches thence were of so republican a tone, that in 1792 he was commissioned minister of the new French republic, to Holland; but late in the same year was chosen for the mission to the United States, where he arrived April 8, 1793. His career in America is well known. After his commission was revoked, Genet became a naturalized American citizen, married a daughter of Governor Clinton of New York, and died at Jamaica, Long Island, in 1834.--ED.

[2] Humeau and Le Blanc appear to have been agents of Genet, assisting in this revolutionary movement. Nothing is known of the former. Le Blanc was a citizen of New Orleans, well-affected to the French revolutionary cause. He was to have been made mayor of New Orleans, when that city should fall into the hands of the revolutionists. See American Historical Association _Report_, 1896, pp. 1049, 1050.--ED.

[3] For a description of the left-hand or southern branch of the road, known as “The Old Glade,” see Harris’s _Journal_, _post_.--ED.

[4] Evident error; perhaps 320 was intended.--C. S. S.

The distance in reality by this route was somewhat less than this.--ED.

[5] Hugh H. Brackenridge was at this time the most prominent lawyer in Pittsburg, whither he had come in 1781, after graduating at Princeton and serving as chaplain in the regular army. Brackenridge was a Scotch-Irishman, and a Democrat in politics; therefore he sympathized with the uprising known as the Whiskey Rebellion, and wrote a work in its defense, although his influence had been exercised to moderate its excesses. Gallatin defeated him for Congress in 1794; but later he took his place upon the bench of the state supreme court, and served with great ability until his death in 1816.--ED.

[6] _Physostegia Virginiana_, Benth.--C. S. S.

[7] _Hedeoma pulegiodes_, Pers.--C. S. S.

[8] Col. Francis Vigo was a Sardinian, who came to Louisiana in the Spanish army. Settling at St. Louis as a trader, he embraced the cause of American independence, rendering substantial aid in many ways to George Rogers Clark, in the latter’s Illinois campaigns. Vigo took the oath of allegiance to the United States, and later settled at Vincennes, where he died in poverty in 1836. His just claims upon the government were not settled until thirty years after his death.--ED.

[9] A Spanish document of this period complains of Audrain as having misappropriated funds for his contracts, also charges him with being a radical republican, receiving all the patriots at his house, where dinners were given and toasts drunk to the downfall of monarchy. See American Historical Association _Report_, 1896, p. 1049.

The commandant at St. Louis was Captain Don Zenon Trudeau, who held the office from 1792-99.--ED.

[10] This Frenchman was known in Pittsburg as J. B. C. Lucas, and was appointed associate judge of Allegheny County in 1800. His Democratic principles were so strong that he brought about the impeachment of his colleague, Judge Addison, a well-known Federalist.--ED.

[11] The writer here uses the term “Fort Pitt” as the name of the town; the brick fortification which was being demolished was the one known by that name, built by Stanwix in 1759-61. It stood between the rivers, below Third, West, and part of Liberty streets. A redoubt, built in 1764 as a part of these works, is still standing, and has been restored by the Pittsburg chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution, whom it serves as a museum. See _Frontier Forts of Western Pennsylvania_ (Harrisburg, 1896), ii, pp. 99-159.--ED.

[12] Fort Fayette, a stockade erected in 1792 for protection against the Indians. It stood about a quarter of a mile above Fort Pitt, on the present Penn Street, at the crossing of Garrison Avenue.--ED.

[13] _E. atropurpureus_, Jacq.--C. S. S.

[14] This is probably his _Sicyos lobata_ (_Echinocystis lobata_ of Torr. and Gray) which, according to the _Flora_, was detected by Michaux “in _occidentalibus Pensylvaniae, juxta fluvium Ohio_.” The “_corolla 5 partita_” is retained by Richard in his description.--C. S. S.

[15] Wheeling was founded upon land taken up by Col. Ebenezer Zane in 1770. During Lord Dunmore’s War a stockade was built at this place, called Fort Fincastle; later, the name was changed in honor of Patrick Henry, first governor of the state of Virginia. Fort Henry was thrice besieged during the Revolution--in 1777, 1781, and 1782. Many romantic incidents are told of these events; most notable, that of the sortie for additional powder, successfully executed by Elizabeth Zane. Colonel Zane laid out the place in town-lots in 1793; two years later, the Virginia legislature incorporated it. In 1797 Wheeling became the seat of Ohio County; and early in the nineteenth century appeared likely to surpass Pittsburg in prosperity, and as an important emporium for Western trade.--ED.

[16] The site for Fort Harmar was chosen by Gen. Richard Butler (1785), on his journey to Cincinnati to make peace with the Miami Indians. A detachment under Major Doughty began building the fort--named in honor of Gen. Josiah Harmar--in the autumn of this year; its completion in 1786 afforded protection to the frontier inhabitants of Virginia. Two years later (1788), the Ohio Company of Associates--New England veterans of the Revolution--came out under the leadership of Gen. Rufus Putnam, and began the settlement of Marietta, “the Plymouth Rock of the West.”--ED.

[17] For the Little Kanawha, see Croghan’s _Journals_, vol. i of this series, note 98.--ED.

[18] For the Great Kanawha and its historical associations, see Croghan’s _Journals_, vol. i of this series, note 101; also Thwaites, _On the Storied Ohio_.--ED.

[19] For the history of this French settlement on the Ohio, see _Journal_ of F. A. Michaux, _post_.--ED.

[20] Jean G. Petit was the most prominent man of this settlement, acting both as physician and judge.--ED.

[21] For a description of the Scioto, and its early historical importance, see Croghan’s _Journals_, vol. i of this series, note 102; also Thwaites, _On the Storied Ohio_.--ED.

[22] The Three Islands were noted landmarks in the early history of Kentucky. Kennedy and his company encamped there in 1773, but the settlement was in a dangerous location, as this was near an Indian crossing place. In 1791, twenty men were told off to garrison the settlement. The upper island was near Brush Creek, in Ohio. Only one island remains at this place.--ED.

[23] Limestone (now Maysville) was long the chief river post for Kentucky, but was not early settled owing to its exposure to Indian attacks. Bullitt and the McAfees were there in 1773; Simon Kenton settled farther up on Limestone Creek in 1776. The same year, George Rogers Clark landed at this place the powder provided by Virginia for the protection of the Kentucky settlements. The first blockhouse was built on the site of Limestone in 1783; four years later, the town was incorporated by the Virginia legislature.--ED.

[24] Alexander D. Orr was representative in Congress for Kentucky, from its admission and through the fourth Congress (1792-97). A Virginian by birth (1765), he removed to Mason County at an early period, and had much influence in his neighborhood, where he lived as a planter until his death, June 21, 1835. Michaux’s visit to Colonel Orr is probably significant of the fact that Orr was interested in the former’s mission.--ED.

[25] Gen. Henry Lee was one of the earliest settlers in Mason County. Coming to Kentucky as a surveyor in 1779, six years later he established Lee’s Station, near Washington--one of the earliest in northeastern Kentucky. Lee was Kentucky delegate in the Virginia house of burgesses (1788), a member of the convention that adopted the federal constitution, and later member of the Danville conventions for organizing the State of Kentucky; his political influence, therefore, was important. Unlike many of the pioneers, he prospered in business and amassed a considerable fortune, dying on his estate in 1845.--ED.

[26] For the history of Big Bone Lick, see Croghan’s _Journals_, vol. i of this series, note 104.--ED.

[27] This was either May’s Lick, in Mason County, or the Lower Blue Licks, in Nicholas County. It is evident that the buffalo had nearly disappeared from this region, where less than thirty years before Croghan had found them in such vast numbers. Butricke (_Historical Magazine_, viii, p. 259) says that in 1768 they were scarce above the Scioto River. The last buffalo was killed in the Great Kanawha Valley, about twelve miles below Charleston, West Virginia, in 1815.--ED.

[28] There is some doubt thrown upon the commonly-accepted statement that the first cabin at Lexington was built in 1775, and the place named in honor of the opening battle of the Revolution, news of which had just been received. The permanent settlement was not made until 1779; the following year the town was made county seat of the newly-erected Fayette County, and itself incorporated in 1782.--ED.

[29] Paris was laid out in 1786, the first court of Bourbon County being held there in 1787. Two years later, it was incorporated by the Virginia legislature as Hopewell; the present designation was adopted in 1790.--ED.

[30] Danville was laid off as a town by Walker Daniel in 1781, and rapidly rose to importance, being the centre of political activity and the seat of the conventions in which statehood for Kentucky was agitated (1785-92). After the admission of Kentucky as a state, Frankfort was chosen capital, and the importance of Danville declined.--ED.

[31] Joshua Barbee was born in Virginia, and after serving in the Revolution removed to the vicinity of Danville, early in the Kentucky settlement. He was militia officer in 1791, a member of the political club of Danville, and of the state legislature. A man of wealth and prominence, his family became intimately associated with Kentucky history. He died in 1839.

Pierre Tardiveau was a French merchant who had an extensive business in the West, and connections in Bordeaux. With his partner, Honoré, he carried on trade with New Orleans, and made frequent trips thither. Tardiveau embarked in Genet’s enterprise, and was appointed interpreter in chief by Michaux, who appears to have used him to communicate with agents in New Orleans. See Claiborne, _Mississippi_ (Jackson, 1880), pp. 152, 153; also American Historical Association _Report_, 1896, pp. 952, 1026, 1096. Tardiveau removed to Louisiana when it came under American dominion.--ED.

[32] John Brown, one of Kentucky’s most prominent public men, was born at Staunton, Virginia, in 1757, and while a student at Princeton joined the Revolutionary army as aid to Lafayette. At the close of the war he removed to Kentucky, was its first representative to the old Congress (1787-89); then to Congress under the Constitution (1789-92), where he was employed in securing the admission of Kentucky as a state. Upon that event (1792), Brown was sent to the United States Senate, of which he remained a prominent member until 1805. He was a personal friend of Washington, Jefferson (with whom he studied law), and Madison, and when he died in 1837 was the last survivor of the Congress of the Confederation. Brown was cognizant of Michaux’s plans, and evidently sympathized with them, having been interested in previous separatist movements for Kentucky. See Butler, _Kentucky_, and John Mason Brown, “Political Beginnings of Kentucky,” Filson Club _Publications_ No. 6. Brown gave letters of introduction to Michaux. See American Historical Association _Report_, 1896, pp. 982, 983, 1010.--ED.

[33] Brown refers here to the embassy of Carmichael, and the negotiations entered into by him and Pinckney, the minister at Madrid, that ultimately led to the treaty of 1794.

The Creek Indians lay south of the United States territory in West Florida, and were believed by the Westerners to be incited to attacks upon Americans by the Spanish authorities of this province and of Louisiana.--ED.

[34] Michaux went to what was known as St. Asaph’s, or Logan’s Station, in Lincoln County, to see the well-known pioneer and Indian fighter, Gen. Benjamin Logan. Next to Clark, Logan was, doubtless, the best known person in Kentucky, and had been chosen by Genet as second in command of the expedition. That he afterwards decided to enter upon this affair, seems evident from his letter to Clark of December 31, 1793, in American Historical Association _Report_, 1896, p. 1026. Logan was a Scotch-Irishman, born in Virginia in 1743. When but fourteen his father died, and he was left as eldest son of the family. Having removed to Holston, he was out with Bouquet in 1764, and ten years later in Lord Dunmore’s War. Locating his station in Kentucky in 1775, he brought out his family the following year, and sustained many Indian attacks as well as led several aggressive campaigns against the savages. As county lieutenant he was a safeguard for the new settlements, and was revered and respected by all his neighbors. Having served in the legislature and the convention that drew up the Kentucky constitution, he died at his home in Lincoln County in 1802.--ED.

[35] There was no better-known character in the West, than Governor Shelby. Born in Maryland in 1750, the family were of pioneer stock, and early moved to Western Virginia, where young Shelby was sheriff (1771), and lieutenant under his father, Evan Shelby, at the Battle of Point Pleasant (1774). The next year he surveyed in Kentucky, and then returned to the Holston to engage in the Revolutionary struggles. To his forethought is attributed the success of the battle of King’s Mountain, after which he served in the North Carolina legislature. Removing to Kentucky in 1783, Shelby was welcomed as a hero by the new community, and made the first governor of the State. He served a second term during the War of 1812-15, reinforcing Harrison at a critical juncture for the Western division of the army. Refusing the portfolio of war, offered by Monroe in 1817, Shelby retired to his farm in Lincoln County, where he died in 1826. Michaux carried letters to Shelby; see American Historical Association _Report_, 1896, pp. 983, 984. On Shelby’s later attitude toward the expedition, see _ibid._, pp. 934, 1023, 1040, _note_.--ED.

[36] Knob Licks, Lincoln County, was formed as a settlement in 1776 by Governor Shelby. De Pauw, one of the French agents, resided here. See American Historical Association _Report_, 1896, pp. 977, 1002, 1023, 1102-1106. The Knobs were a peculiar formation of detached hillocks.--ED.

[37] Beardstown (Bardstown) was an important settlement in early Kentucky history, established (1788) near the Salt River in what is now Nelson County, and named for the proprietor, David Baird. It is now a small village, although still the county seat.--ED.

[38] For the founding of Louisville, see Croghan’s _Journals_, vol. i of this series, note 106. The old road from Bardstown to Louisville went via the Salt Works (Shepherdsville, Bullitt County), and was reckoned at forty-five miles. See Speed, “Wilderness Road,” Filson Club _Publications_ (Louisville, 1886), p. 17. The new road was more direct, went across country from Bardstown, and joined the old about ten miles below Louisville.--ED.

[39] For the letters of Genet and Clark, see American Historical Association _Report_, 1896, pp. 967, 986.--ED.

[40] In Clark’s letter to Genet, he seems to indicate that this obstacle was the leaking out of the secret, by which intimations might reach the Spaniards. Possibly he refers to the Spanish mission which caused Logan’s hesitation; see _ante_, note 33; also American Historical Association _Report_, 1896, p. 1007-1009.--ED.

[41] The home of Clark’s father, with whom he resided, was known as “Mulberry Hill,” situated in the environs of Louisville.--ED.

[42] _E. Americanus, L._--C.S.S.

[43] On the early mail routes, see Speed, _Wilderness Road_, pp. 65-68.--ED.

[44] James Hogan was a pioneer of Kentucky who settled at Bryan’s Station before 1779, and took a leading part in its defense against Indians (1781). He was granted (1785) by the Virginia legislature the right to maintain a ferry across the Kentucky River.--ED.

[45] The principal ferry on the road from Danville to Lexington was at the mouth of Hickman’s Creek, so named in honor of the first Baptist preacher in Kentucky, Rev. William Hickman.--ED.

[46] See letter of this date, written by Michaux to Clark (American Historical Association _Report_, 1896, p. 1010), in which he gives his address at “Mᵗᵉ Isham Prewitt, Jefferson County, near Danville.”--ED.

[47] The original letter sent by this messenger is in the Wisconsin Historical Library (Draper MSS., 55 J 5), and is printed in American Historical Association Report, 1896, p. 1013.--ED.

[48] This reply is given in American Historical Association _Report_, 1896, pp. 1007-1009. The break in the manuscript of Michaux’s diary is occasioned by the completion of one blank book and the commencement of another.--ED.

[49] Nicholas was one of a famous coterie of Virginia constitutional lawyers. Born in 1743, the son of a distinguished lawyer, Robert Cary Nicholas, he served as captain in the Revolution, and at its close qualified for the bar. His services in the Virginia convention which adopted the federal constitution, were important. Shortly after its close he removed to Kentucky, and there aided in the adoption of its state constitution, which is reputed to have been drawn up by his hand. Upon the formation of the state government, he was chosen first attorney general. Nicholas adopted a moderate position in regard to Western politics; the scheme here outlined, seems characteristic. In 1799 he was appointed law professor in Transylvania University, but died during the same year.--ED.

[50] Michaux returned to Philadelphia by the well-known “Wilderness Road,” the chief means of exit from Kentucky. Parties frequently waited at Crab Orchard--the western terminus in Lincoln County--until enough had gathered to act as protection against the Indians. See Speed, “Wilderness Road,” Filson Club _Publications_, No. 2 (Louisville, 1886); also Hulbert, _Historic Highways of America_, vol. vi.--ED.

[51] _Lygodium palmatum_, Swz.--C.S.S.

[52] Three words are here frayed away in the manuscript of the Journal.--C.S.S.

[53] Cumberland Gap, in southeastern Kentucky, emerging into Tennessee, was explored in 1750 by Dr. Thomas Walker, who named both mountains and river in honor of the Duke of Cumberland, son of George II.--ED.

[54] The Clinch and Holston rivers are upper waters of the Tennessee, in southwestern Virginia and northeastern Tennessee. The settlements in these valleys were among the first on the west-flowing streams. See map in Turner, “State Making in the Revolutionary Era,” in _American Historical Review_, i, p. 74.--ED.

[55] Both of these stations are mentioned in an early journal; see Speed, _Wilderness Road_, p. 21. The first was the seat for Hawkins County, Tennessee.--ED.

[56] The forks of the road was at the junction of the north and south forks of the Holston River, near the present town of Kingsport, Sullivan County, Tennessee.--ED.

[57] Abingdon, originally known as Wolf Hills, was one of the earliest settlements in the Valley of Virginia, and the seat of Washington County. It was established as a town in 1778. It is still the county seat, and a station on the Norfolk & Western Railway.--ED.

[58] Wytheville, near the centre of the county of that name, and its county seat.--ED.

[59] The early route through the Virginia Valley crossed New River at Ingles’s Ferry, a short distance west of Blacksburg, Montgomery County. A new road shortened the distance and crossed the New River about five miles farther up the stream, at a ferry operated by the pioneer family of Pepper. They are alluded to in the Draper MSS., Wisconsin Historical Library, I QQ 97.--ED.

[60] Botetourt Court House, now Fincastle, the seat of Botetourt County (established in 1769), was laid off as a town in 1772 on land donated for the purpose by Israel Christian. It was named for the ancestral seat of Lord Botetourt, an early governor of Virginia.--ED.

[61] Lexington was established by law in 1777 as county seat for Rockbridge, then newly-formed out of Augusta and Botetourt. See _ante_, note 28.--ED.

[62] Col. James McDowell, who lived near Fairfield, Rockbridge County, was a descendant of the Scotch-Irish settler, Capt. John McDowell, who came to the valley as a surveyor in 1737, and was killed in the first Indian fight therein (1742).--ED.

[63] The present roads through the Valley of Virginia follow the course described by Michaux, passing through the same towns. Staunton is one of the earliest towns of the region, having been settled in 1732 by John Lewis, a Scotch-Irishman, whose sons Andrew and Charles were among the most prominent borderers. Andrew commanded the Sandy Creek expedition in 1756; and at the battle of Point Pleasant in 1774, where Charles was slain. Staunton was laid out as a town in 1748, at the “Beverly Mill Place,” but was not established by act of legislature until 1761.--ED.

[64] This town is generally known as Harrisonburg, from its founder, Thomas Harrison (1780). The county of Rockingham was erected in 1778, and held its first court at the house of Daniel Smith, which was two miles north of Harrisonburg.--ED.

[65] The upper or northern portion of the Valley of Virginia was first settled by German emigrants from Pennsylvania. Woodstock was laid off as a town by Jacob Miller, and established by law in 1761.--ED.

[66] Newtown, or Stephensburg, was founded by Lewis Stephens on the site of his father’s first claim. Peter Stephens came to Virginia in 1732, with Joist Hite, an early settler of the northern portion of the Valley. His son established the town in 1758, it being called Newtown to distinguish it from th